Calling Chrysler T&C Gurus

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  #1  
Old 08-27-04, 06:02 PM
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Calling Chrysler T&C Gurus

Was driving today and the a/c started getting hot so ok I'll check it later, turned it off and rolled the windows down. No biggy. Drove a little further and the temp was all the way to hot whith check guage light on. Great. I checked and wouldn't ya know, the radiator fans not working. Ok, so now the compressor clutch isn't ingaging and the radiator fan stopped working at the same time. I automatically thought fuse. There are none that I can find that control these 2 devises. All I could find is relays and computor. I purchsed a compressor cluth relay and a radiator fan relay and they of course were no luck.

So the $100,000 dollar question is this. Is it the control computor thing or am I missing something.

93' Chrysler Town and Country.
I think 3.3 liter maybe 3.0 but I'm pretty sure it's 3.3L If it's detrimental I'll run out and check.
Automatic.
 

Last edited by mattison; 08-27-04 at 06:06 PM. Reason: Forgot to add.
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  #2  
Old 08-27-04, 08:11 PM
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I would suggest hooking up a power wire from the battery to the fan just to make sure its working if it works then check your fusible links usually along the drivers side fender maybe tied or partially taped to wire loom you can test them by pullig on them if they stretch and break they are blown and will need to be replaced with same size fusible link.
if the fan motor is bad you may still have blown a fusible link going to it and may need checked after you replace the fan motor.
the a/c will kick off if the high side pressure is to high and will not come back on until the pressure returns to normal so there may not be a problem there considering the fan isnt working the high side pressure will go very high.
 
  #3  
Old 08-28-04, 08:57 AM
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But the air stopped working before it got hot.
 
  #4  
Old 08-30-04, 02:17 PM
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Just an FYI, Did some serious probing today and found a bundle of fusible links next to the washer fluid bottle. There was a 20amp link ruptured. I took it out and jumped it "temporarily" and everything fired up.
 
  #5  
Old 08-30-04, 02:43 PM
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Good find just hope it doesn't blow again.I also hope you repaired it with a fusible link so you don't have a fire next.
 
  #6  
Old 08-31-04, 04:01 AM
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Yeah, just jumped it for testing purposes. Fired up the a/c and the clutch engaged and the cooling fan came on also shut off the a/c and let the temp get up so the cooling fan would come on by itself. Put in a new link and if I get off my butt and get this house repaired and rented the boss "wife" says I can trade it in.
 
  #7  
Old 08-31-04, 04:58 AM
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underlying issue...

...would be what caused it to blow in the first place. they don't just fail for no reason, there was a short to ground in the circuit that the fuse link protects at some point. it's obviously intermittant...and it's bound to happen again if not found and repaired. i'd inspect the wire harness(s) closely for chafing, a common cause of intermittant shorts to ground.
 
  #8  
Old 08-31-04, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by carguyinva
...would be what caused it to blow in the first place. .
That lingers in my head. I thought I had a DC amp meter laying around somewhere to see what it's drawing.
 
  #9  
Old 08-31-04, 06:15 PM
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I've seen this problem on a dodge caravan. The wire that went to the fan had gotten too close (or was touching) the exhaust manifold and melted the insulation which caused a short.
 
  #10  
Old 09-01-04, 03:59 AM
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Well Carguy put the hexo-whammy on me and it melted again. I think I've narrowed it down to the a/c clutch though. It went fine all yesterday untill my son decided to turn the a/c on and it wasn't but a few minutes untill it was blowing warm. Guess I'm tracing out wires tonight. The clutch wire is a possibility the way it's routed toward the exaust area.
 
  #11  
Old 09-01-04, 04:10 AM
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you may...

...also want to check the resistance of the clutch coil itself. most ac clutch coils are pretty low resistance...in the 3-5 ohm range...so you'll need a DVOM to check it with. go across the two terminals (or if it only has one terminal, from that terminal to ground) to measure the resistance. if it has two terminals be sure to go from either terminal to ground as well...that reading should be infinity or very high (mega-ohms) if the coil is NOT shorted to ground. use a bright light when tracing the wiring
 
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