I had some brake issues with my truck... first, it was i had to press on my brakes almost to the floor to get my brakes to brake. So, i looked at my brake fluid, good level. A couple of days later, I decided I should bleed my brakes. Couldn't figure out how to do it, so I sent it to a shop. They said that I had multiple holes in my brake hoses. I haven't checked my brake fluid, but do you think it would be easy to replace these parts myself? My truck is a 4x4 1500 1/2 chevy 91 and I am a little knowledge able in brakes and I could figure something out. Is there a link that I could go to that could explain all this to me? Or can it be explained? Anything is helpful! Thanks stac

My problem started with a burst heater hose. Since replacing the hose, in the morning after 10 minutes of driving I often feel a slight stumble followed shortly by a check engine light that randomly comes on and goes off seemingly without regard to how I am driving. Other than the slight stumble (miss?) it drives fine. The car is a '94 Ford Taurus with 147,000 mi and 3.0 l V-6 engine. Here is what I did: 1 I had Auto Zone read the code. It was a 332, no evidence of EGR, and they sold me a EGR valve for about $50. Nothing changed. 2 I then had a shop look at it. They pulled a 565, canister purge failure, a 172, cyl 1-3 too lean, a 173, cyl 1-3 too rich, a 452, no data from vehicle speed sensor and another code, neutral safety switch out of range. He said the burst heater hose had nothing to do with the problem, and you can take a bath with modern engines. He said a bad ignition switch was tricking the computer and installed a new one for $121. Nothing changed, so I went back the second day for my $121. He said he would have another look. He called, and said that I needed the switch PLUS a mass air flow sensor for an additional $250. He could not explain why the MAF sensor was fooling the computer as had the ignition switch the day before, so I cut my losses and passed on additional work from this guy. 3. After toiling for a few more days on my own, I went back to Auto Zone for another reading. They pulled the same codes as the guy above with the addition of 332. 4. I finally took it to the dealer and they tried to sell me a computer, a EGR pressure sensor and a MAF sensor cleaning for about $550. I paid them $70 for the advice and passed on the work. When I told him about the heater hose break just prior to the problem, he just stared at me and did not respond. 5. I took the EGR pressure sensor to Auto Zone and had them do a bench test. The guy said it was fine and compared to one in the box. I also got 15" vacuum at the valve while revving the engine, so the valve must be opening. 6. Finally I figured out how to read the codes by connecting a jumper wire and counting check engine light flashes. Also, once I was able to see the car in full sunlight, I noticed orange silicone sealant where the EGO sensor and VSS wire come out of the harness. In the past (factory floor?) someone repaired stripped wire with sealant. The burst heater hose had loosened most of this and bare copper was visible on all six wires to these 2 sensors. I believe I repaired the wiring. To test this, I pulled the 80 ? pin connector at the fire wall and checked for continuity at two EGO sensor wires. I got no continuity between the wires or to ground from each. I reconnected the wiring harness and turned the ignition to run. Here I tested the other two EGO sensor wires, the heater wires, and I got 12 V. On the VSS, working again at the 80 pin connector, I got 26,000 ohms to ground on one side and 0 on the other. My wiring diagram from the Auto Zone web site shows one side grounded. Is the 26,000 ohms a problem? Should it be infinite? The actual sensor was disconnected, since I was only testing the wiring. I also tried it with the sensor connected and record infinite resistance, but I did not check it on the 1K scale and maybe it was 26,000 ohms too. 5. Since my wiring repair, the check engine light comes on just as it did the day after the heater hose broke. However the range of codes is much smaller. After each drive where the check engine light comes on, I check the codes and then clear them. I always get a 172, too lean and 332, no EGR. Approximately 80% of the time I get a 452, no VSS data. Approx. 30% of the time I get a 173, too rich. Maybe 10% of the time I will get a 565, canister purge failure or a neutral safety switch out of range. What is going on? I plan to switch the two EGO sensor to determine if it is a sensor or wiring/ computer problem. BUT... maybe an injector is failing making it too lean the computer compensates and then it starts working again making the mixture too rich. Maybe random missed spark will do the same thing? The injectors and plug wires also took a bath in hot coolant. What about the 332? The EGR valve is opening since I have vacuum, but the solenoid valve that controls the vacuum also took a bath. Maybe it shuts of vacuum to the EGR valve at random too? Any suggestions?