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01 Impala LS - Double start needed


kuhurdler's Avatar
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09-08-04, 01:55 PM   #1  
01 Impala LS - Double start needed

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09-09-04, 06:46 AM   #2  
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09-09-04, 12:30 PM   #3  
try cleaning...

...the throttle body...it needs it with 56k...if it's never been done before esp

ps...you're welcome

 
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09-09-04, 03:10 PM   #4  
Check the fuel pressure regulator for leakage if it is a 3.8.Thanks for supplying all the info about your car like engine size.Also if it is a 3.8 make sure both pcv valve o-rings are still there.

 
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09-09-04, 03:22 PM   #5  
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09-09-04, 03:43 PM   #6  
When you remove the pcv valve a large o-ring seals where the cover goes on and a small o-ring is usually stuck on the pcv valve at the bottom and gets tossed with the valve.The leakage would come out of the regulator with the vacuum hose unplugged.Hold your finger near the vacuum nipple on the regulator and tap the regulator with a screwdriver,if gas comes out it's bad.You could also have a coolant leak inside the plenum where the egr tube enters,you should notice some coolant consumption without external leaks if this is the case.Cleaning the throttle body properly requires removal to clean with carb cleaner and an old toothbrush.

 
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09-13-04, 10:04 AM   #7  
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09-13-04, 11:14 AM   #8  
oil pressure...

...circuit is redundant for the fuel pump...malfunctioning fuel pump control circuits are usually associated with long crank times.

do you hear the fuel pump run when you just turn on the key? if so, the issues isn't with the OP sending unit.

as for replacing it...no, you don't have to drain the oil...but then why would you replace it without checking it our first.

listen to Davo...he's dealing with GM stuff everyday...he's your best resource for GOOD GM info...

 
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09-13-04, 12:50 PM   #9  
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09-13-04, 01:16 PM   #10  
the fuel pump...

...is controlled by a relay circuit which in turn is controlled by the powertrain control module (PCM)...in case of a relay or relay drive circuit failure, which philosophically shouldn't strand someone, the fuel pump control circuit is "backed up" by the oil pressure switch circuit...this is a circuit that can also feed current to the fuel pump but it is NOT the primary way that the pump is controlled. hence the term redundant...disconnect the relay and the pump will still run and the car will still start but usually suffers extended crank time...disconnect the OP sensor for the fuel pump and likely you'll never know...unless there is a relay circuit failure. i don't believe that this part failed or failing will cause your complaint.

the fact that you can start normally when you wait a second or two before rotating the key to crank tells me that possibly you are building pressure more slowly than is normal...an indication of perhaps a fuel filter that needs to be changed (every 30k) or a pump that is beginning to fail...

as for diagnosing a fuel pump that is on it's way out...you need someone that is experienced in current ramping to test and evaluate the current waveform that is generated by the pump while spinning.

if it's not the fuel filter...the at the very least it needs to be tested for pressure and volume and go from there...possibly doing the testing i mentioned above

 
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09-13-04, 02:54 PM   #11  
The fuel pressure on your car should be 53-59 psi with the key on engine off it may take several on off cycles of the key to achieve the specs.If the pressure is in specs allow the car to sit for 1 minute with the guage still attached.If the fuel pressure drops more than 5 psi you have a leak.Try pulling the hose off the regulator first thing in the morning and check for gas in the hose or regulator nipple.I have had some where I had to remove the regulator turn it upside down and tap the nipple on my hand to catch the leak.You could have a clogged filter as carguyinva suggests but that was on the list of things changed so unless you got a load of dirty gas it's not real likely.Did you just get this car recently?Did you put the o-rings both back in place?Don't guess about the o-rings if either one is missing the car will not operate properly.You could suck in an intake gasket seal if the lower o-ring is gone and if the upper one is gone the MAP sensor will have skewed readings.Also clean the throttle body as I said when you are in there remove the gasket and check for a hole in the plenum(center hole on the bottom of the plenum)with a pick.The groove that the gasket sits in usually leaks from the top of that center hole.That's where the egr tube burns through.As per your suggestion I am editing my post to include that I don't feel your statement "thanks for the info thus far"was just a "to the top" post which I don't care for those either because it means you think getting your question answered is more important than the other person.


Last edited by davo; 09-13-04 at 03:05 PM. Reason: because he told me to
 
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09-13-04, 03:57 PM   #12  
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09-14-04, 04:03 AM   #13  
Removing the throttle body to clean it should only take 1 hour tops even if you have never done it before.I don't mean removing the intake manifold or the plenum.Have you had it checked for any codes(Autozone does it free)?Does it have an aftermarket alarm or remote start?

 
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09-14-04, 05:34 AM   #14  
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09-30-04, 08:02 PM   #15  
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09-30-04, 08:12 PM   #16  
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10-02-04, 05:11 AM   #17  
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11-22-04, 11:42 AM   #18  
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12-03-04, 01:07 PM   #19  
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