Toyota Tacoma 2001 Air-Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit problem

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  #1  
Old 10-10-04, 05:16 PM
henrydd
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Toyota Tacoma 2001 Air-Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit problem

Hi there
I have a Toyota Tacoma 2001 model. VIN 5tegn92n11z745273.
I scanned and got code p 1135, cleared the code with scan tool , but the code reappeared. Problem is

P1135- Air-Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response.


Please advise what is the solution to this problem? The vehicle is 'drinking' gas!!

The engine is a 3400 V6, I think 5vzfe. The tacoma had a supercharger, but it was removed. The previous owner said its missing a cap/cover for a hose in the air flow system; but I dont know which hose.I doesnt seem to be next to the engine; maybe by a fender???

you may email me at [email protected] if u prefer
Thanks a million
 
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  #2  
Old 10-10-04, 05:39 PM
henrydd
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Originally Posted by henrydd
Hi there
I have a Toyota Tacoma 2001 model. VIN 5tegn92n11z745273.
I scanned and got code p 1135, cleared the code with scan tool , but the code reappeared. Problem is

P1135- Air-Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response.


Please advise what is the solution to this problem? The vehicle is 'drinking' gas!!

The engine is a 3400 V6, I think 5vzfe. The tacoma had a supercharger, but it was removed. The previous owner said its missing a cap/cover for a hose in the air flow system; but I dont know which hose.I doesnt seem to be next to the engine; maybe by a fender???

you may email me at [email protected] if u prefer
Thanks a million
 
  #3  
Old 10-12-04, 01:44 AM
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I'm taking a really big guess...

that this code is refering to an oxygen sensor. Some cars use a type of sensor that has a seperate heater in them and the computer is telling you that it sees a problem with the heater part of the sensor. Some cars also use two sensors, one before and after the catalytic convertor. These sensors will be somewhere along the exhaust pipe. Check for loose/ disconnected wires, melted wires, otherwise further testing will be needed.

I'm sorry to be so general, but I'm not a professional mechanic. I also have no idea what or where the hose would be.

Also, you usually have to make changes to the air and fuel systems when you add a supercharger, do you know if the truck was returned completely to stock when it was taken off?
 
  #4  
Old 10-12-04, 02:59 AM
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Long Island, NY
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You need to replace the A/F before the cat. Just make sure you haxe 12v at the two wires that feed the two blacks on the sensor.
 
  #5  
Old 10-13-04, 07:16 PM
henrydd
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Thanks guys!!!

Thanks guys!!!!I'll try it!!
 
  #6  
Old 10-14-04, 12:32 PM
henrydd
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Do I test white and Blue wires ?

HI
I tested the resistance between the white and blue wires. Zero ohms.
Tested voltage between the 2 black wires. Read 13 V.Were these the right wires to test? I dont have a diagram.


Thanks
 
  #7  
Old 10-14-04, 02:54 PM
Join Date: Jun 2002
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The heater circuit has voltage so the heater in sensor is ng, replace it.
 
  #8  
Old 10-23-04, 06:21 AM
macsnjets
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I have the same problem on a 2001 4Runner, I see in the posts above that the black wires should have 12 volts but what should the resistance be between the white and blue wires ? Will I have the same wiring on the 4Runner? I found the sensor from a place in texas for $202, do you know a cheaper place than this?
thanks
 
  #9  
Old 10-23-04, 07:06 AM
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Long Island, NY
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You cannot test with an ohm meter the blue and white wires. You would have to look at scan tool data to read the sensor.

Besides you have a heater circuit problem. If 12v at the heater wires replace the sensor.
 
  #10  
Old 10-28-04, 06:44 PM
Tacoman808
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I have the same problem with my 2002 Toyota Tacoma code P1135 A/F Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (bank 1 sensor 1). I tested the 2 pins that feed to the 2 black wires on the sensor and 1 of them reads 12v but the other reads 2v. What could be my problem?
 

Last edited by Tacoman808; 10-28-04 at 07:12 PM.
  #11  
Old 10-29-04, 03:11 AM
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Location: Long Island, NY
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One is power and the other is ground. Hook both leads to both wires.

You need an A/F sensor if you have the 12v at the two wires.
 
  #12  
Old 10-29-04, 05:18 AM
Tacoman808
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okay, so 1 wire is + and the other is - . my question is, how would I get 12v at both wires if one is ground? if one is ground wouldnt just 1 wire read 12v? I grounded my neg lead to body and probed both. one read 12.3v and the other read 2.4v.
 
  #13  
Old 10-29-04, 06:07 AM
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One is power and the other is ground. Hook both leads to both wires
With both leads hooked to both wires at the same time.

Like I said replace the sensor. I don't know how else to tell ya.
 
  #14  
Old 10-29-04, 07:21 AM
Tacoman808
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Correct me if I'm wrong but it should read 0v with ignition off and 12v with it on right? or is voltage constantly running?
 
  #15  
Old 10-29-04, 07:47 AM
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Only with it running, might be there with key just on.
 
  #16  
Old 10-29-04, 08:30 AM
Tacoman808
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ok, I just wanted to clarify that cause I tried with car off and showed 0v. so i turned the ignition switch on and it showed voltage. I just ordered a new sensor so hopefully this is the fix. Thanks for your help
 
  #17  
Old 10-29-04, 01:07 PM
macsnjets
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Originally Posted by Tacoman808
okay, so 1 wire is + and the other is - . my question is, how would I get 12v at both wires if one is ground? if one is ground wouldnt just 1 wire read 12v? I grounded my neg lead to body and probed both. one read 12.3v and the other read 2.4v.
I don't think he means 12 v at both but rather across those wires. You're reading the same as I am. the 2.4v is probably stray voltage but if my theory is correct, as it is a heated sensor, there should be 12v to the sensor, through a heater coil to ground and the other two wires would have to be the sensor. In my case I have no continuity through the heater side of the sensor so I'm going to take an educated guess and say its heater circuit is burned out or open. Post your results here and I'll do the same.
 
  #18  
Old 10-29-04, 02:35 PM
Tacoman808
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I just took a reading between the two wires. With the engine off and igntion in the on position, it read 9.5v. and with the engine running, it read 13.4v
 
  #19  
Old 11-19-06, 07:31 AM
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Toyota Tocoma 2002 Air-fuel Sensor

I have a problem with my check engine light the code is P1135
i replaced the air fuel sensor and am still getting the code the
truck seems to be running fine but the light wont stay off.
 
  #20  
Old 02-25-07, 05:38 PM
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99 taco trd - Airflow Sensor Clean

Just a thought, but my experience with the sensor chain is that the problem can sometimes lye elsewhere.

For example, I was getting a bank 1 inector code "running rich" type error. What cured it was a simple clean of the air flow sensor in the air intake.

A couple shots of non residue type electro clean cured it and the code light on the dash.

Just an FYI, this will happen occasionally if you use a K&N wet filter and have a tendency to over oil it over time.
 
  #21  
Old 11-15-07, 08:58 AM
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Fixed the P1135!

I took Larry's advice along with some of my own research and swapped out the first O2 sensor. Fixed! I have a 2001 Tacoma Prerunner. Check engine light brought up P1135 and P1130. After researching, decided to get new front O2 sensor (California model = air/fuel sensor) from Toyota (210.00 bucks) and it works. Cleared the codes and ran the car through its cycles and all came up clean!
 
  #22  
Old 10-08-08, 08:01 AM
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What if no low voltage and open circuit on the sensor

I checked the sensor: zero ohms. I checked the voltage on the harness: 0.8V

Now what?
 
  #23  
Old 10-08-08, 02:48 PM
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how to check

how do you check the o2 senser


 
  #24  
Old 05-27-09, 03:04 PM
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I've been following this old thread today in order to diagnose and resolve my 2002 Tacoma P1135 error code.

At $210+ for the A/F sensor, I wanted to make sure that I was replacing the right part.

I checked voltage between terminal HTAF1 of ECM connector and ground and it was within the 9 - 14 V spec. So then I checked voltage between the black wires feeding the A/F harness at the sensor, and got 9.72 V.

That's also within spec, right? Does this also have a range of 9-14 V, and if so, would this low end of the spectrum be something I should be concerned about?

And is that confirmation enough that my A/F sensor is indeed the culprit?

Thanks!
 
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