CV Joints 2000 Jimmy?

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  #1  
Old 10-15-04, 07:04 AM
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CV Joints 2000 Jimmy?

Front left wheel is making a "chirping" noise when I turn, at all different speeds. Now its chirping even after I "straighten" out, after the turn, for a little ways. I thought at first, it was the "hub assembly" but it wasn't making the same noise as when those went bad. So I switched my attention to the CV joints and ball joints,,, only problem is,, its not really a "clicking" noise, usually associated with CV joints, its more of a "chirping" like metal on metal chirping.
I took of both front wheels and noticed,, there was an abnormal amount of grease coming out of the "bushings" around the ball joints and cv joints,, only on the left side(where the noise is coming from). Anyone have any experience on these?? I have it at a shop now,, waiting for them to call me with the "news",,, I'm kinda wondering what I'll be looking at, as far as repair costs,, if it is the CV joints??? Thanks in advance.
 
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Old 10-15-04, 08:55 AM
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I think a repair shop in your location would be the best for price quotes. Have you ruled out that the chirping could be from the power steering pump/belt? That was the case on a 98 jimmy I drove.
 
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Old 10-15-04, 10:29 AM
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It turns out,, the chirping was the brakes,, that "tell-tale" warning thing,,, I thought that could be it,,, but the "turning" is what threw me off. The lower ball joints were also bad,,, they told me they'd do the front brakes and replace the rotors and lower ball joints for $500, lifetime warranty on the pads and joints,,,, I thought it was "reasonable", so I told them to go ahead and do it.
 
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Old 10-15-04, 11:04 AM
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Not that your ball joints weren't shot, but I thought I would throw this out there.

My buddy showed me the ball joint trick after my local Midas tried to screw me out of $1200 once. Basically all ball joints appear bad when they take the weight off the wheels. It doesn't mean that they are necessarily shot.

Glad you caught the brakes though.
 
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Old 10-15-04, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by kuhurdler
My buddy showed me the ball joint trick after my local Midas tried to screw me out of $1200 once. Basically all ball joints appear bad when they take the weight off the wheels. It doesn't mean that they are necessarily shot.
.
That's just bogus information. You can't create looseness in a ball joint. You have to unload the spring tension to even be able to test it. If it moves too much, it's bad!....period
 
  #6  
Old 10-15-04, 06:10 PM
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Ball joints are tested differently depending on suspension design and manufacturers specified test procedures and specs.The vehicle in question should have the lower control arm supported with a floor jack under the control arm on the sway bar bracket.I'm not going to list the whole procedure you get the idea.An inaccurate test example would be idler arms being failed by shaking the tire and causing the idler arm to jump up and down on Gm trucks and vans.My point is alot of misjudged ripoffs are not such as much as an improper test done by someone that is not properly educated and will not look up the proper procedure to do the test properly.It is the responsibility of the consumer to find someone that they can trust and can answer questions satifactorily about the repairs being performed.I would welcome a customer to ask me why a part was in need of replacement as would the other techs on this forum but as in any profession the boneheads do exist so you need to keep an eye out for them.
 
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Old 10-15-04, 09:52 PM
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"It is the responsibility of the consumer to find someone that they can trust"

That's alot easier said than done.
 
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Old 10-15-04, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Desi501
That's just bogus information. You can't create looseness in a ball joint. You have to unload the spring tension to even be able to test it. If it moves too much, it's bad!....period
Well, that's what I get for taking free advice. I honestly don't know either way. But I do know that Midas somehow determined all my brakes and some random suspension parts (I thought was a ball joint, maybe not) were leaking/bad at every wheel, and were a danger to myself and society. No wonder there was no wait when we got there. I replaced the pads myself, and had the rotors machined at the advice of my co-worker (spent $90 vs $1200). Then, I drove that car for 2 more years.

My advice is now the same for finding mechanics as it is for dentists and doctors, find a place that has a LONG wait. There's a reason people are willing to wait. Oh, and changing brake pads is easy, if you don't mind getting dirty.
 
  #9  
Old 10-16-04, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by kuhurdler
"It is the responsibility of the consumer to find someone that they can trust"

That's alot easier said than done.
Amen to that my freind and as vehicles get more technical and some folks don't take training and adapt it will get worse.I take at least one class a month for updated information usually 2 though.There are techs working with me that fall into the can't fix a car category I'm sorry to say because they refuse training and I have to bail them out.They are lucky I'm hourly or they would be in a world of hurt because if I was flat rate they would receive zero help.I would also like to thank you for reporting that post the other day.I was going to pm you but you don't have it turned on I guess.
 
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