going to drill out crank pulley bolt

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  #1  
Old 12-05-04, 04:17 PM
ddckec
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Question going to drill out crank pulley bolt

WHAT can i do to get my crank shaft pully bolt off? and does lefty losy apply with this bolt

i have broke two crappy rachets and sockets,

so i bought a 1/2 kolbalt rachet and wrenches,

i am useing a braker bar will a piece of pipe, 2' long altogther

i bent the wrenchs, and the rachet bows when i try to remove the bolt,

so then i bought a air compressor with an impact wrench rated to 290 ft lbs the compresser is a max of 135 psi.
still no luck.

i am useing a braker bar will a piece of pipe, 2' long altogther
i only have about 24" from the floor to the center of the bolt, and about 1 foot from the A frame to the front of the fenderwell to work with, I CAN GET NO MORE CLEARENCE TO WORK WITH

so can i drill it out? a few sizes smaller than the bolt ( more lack alot smaller )and then maybe with the center of the metal gone the bolt would break free from loss of pressure. confused: of course i will not drill all the way throu it, i am going to buy a new bolt to help me measure a good depth; to mark on my drill bite.

what am i to do

ITS A 1995 mercury mysatic
 
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  #2  
Old 12-05-04, 04:41 PM
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Wow, sounds like a real bear of a bolt. I have seen this on an old Accord once.

What size is the engine?

If it's an automatic you must hold the pulley while trying to loosen the bolt. If it's standard, you can always put it in high gear and hold the opposite wheel or flywheel from turning while trying to remove the bolt. You may need a helper. Sometimes you can jam a heavy screwdriver through a slot in the pulley and jam it up against the engine block (heavy cast or steel) to hold the pulley still while trying to crack the bolt free.

Have you soaked it with penetrant?

Sometimes I install the socket to the pulley bolt with a couple of long extensions (2 X 12" long) and hook that up to a breaker bar. I then slide a 4 foot pipe over the breaker bar. It usually comes loose with a very quick and forceful shove.

Let us know if you succeed.
 
  #3  
Old 12-05-04, 04:43 PM
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It sounds like you have a tough one there. Here's a trick we use quite often. Take a long breaker bar with a six point socket as short as possible. I never heard of a Mercury Mysatic but I assume it's front wheel drive, may your referring to a Mystique. Position the breaker bar so it's laying against the ground pointing top the rear. If you momentarily hit the starter, it will slam against the frame and break the bolt loose. First make sure the engine rotation goes in the right direction.
 
  #4  
Old 12-05-04, 05:04 PM
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The above way worked for me a couple of weeks ago.
 
  #5  
Old 12-05-04, 07:19 PM
ddckec
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yes i must say thanks for the comments, but no one answer me on the idea of drilling it out
 
  #6  
Old 12-05-04, 08:14 PM
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That is a biga$$ bolt to be drilling, on my Grand Am it was a 7/8 inch 4 inch long bolt, good luck if that is they way you take.
 
  #7  
Old 12-05-04, 11:51 PM
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If you drill out the bolt,
It can be 1000 times harder to remove the remaining portion of the bolt if its rusted to the threads.
You will snap the head off if you drill into the bolt.

Number one thing ! ! ! ????? First find out if you have a Left hand bolt ! ! ! !

Most 1/2" drive air impact wrenches are rated 250 Lbs for a 1/2" bolt (the fine print on the box).
See what you can rent, a larger air tool, a good one with a big hose, 3/4 breaker bar.

Try this with your air impact,
Get a 6 pointed impact socket place the same size nut inside the socket.
The idea is, the pushing/pounding on top of the head of the bolt will help release the threads while turning.
Use a 3/8" ID air hose.

I had good luck with a (good) 3/4" drive breaker bar.(Better then air tools)
Using cheep wrenches you get slop and bending of the wrenches, that will prevent you from snapping the bolt loose
Every thing must be solid to get a good snapping action on the bolt.

One of the last things, If the bolt is not set deep into the pulley.
Use a Hi speed grinder (dremel type) with a cut off wheel (about 1" dia. disk).
Use only the reinforced cutoff Disks (Use a face shield if a disk breaks it can slice your face or eyes. anything)

The sparks from the disk can set your lawn or something on FIRE (gas can..).

Cut under the head of the bolt to release the pressure from the pulley and bolt.
(do not cut the shank. just the back side of the head).
Then use your braker bar, unscrew the bolt.
 
  #8  
Old 12-06-04, 04:43 AM
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The reason I did not address the issue of drilling the bolt out is because you will open a whole new world of pain.

You will risk having to drill out the remainder of the bolt, perhaps breaking off an "easy-out" within the body of the bolt, damaging the crankshaft's internal threads, damaging the crankshaft's polished outer diameter where the pulley slips over, and maybe having to remove the crankshaft altogether.

However you approach it, it's your choice.

Good luck.
 
  #9  
Old 12-06-04, 05:13 AM
ddckec
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thank you thank you thank you i believe i will try a few of these ideas and im going to hold of on the drilling only if there is no other way
 
  #10  
Old 12-06-04, 02:23 PM
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Drilling is not an option. You should be able to break it loose, even if you have to take it to a shop and pay somebody to put a stronger gun on it. The VERY LAST resort would be to grind off the head as explained earlier.
 
  #11  
Old 12-06-04, 03:48 PM
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In my first post.
I'm NOT saying, Cut off the head of the Bolt !
(DO NOT cut off the head)
(you need the head to unscrew the bolt).
its only Grinding the portion of the bolt that touches the pulley.
I would Cut off the pulley before I would cut off the bolt.
If the grinder cant get in. try a 1/8" stub drill.(wear safety glasses).

I had a friend that drilled a hole in the fender and used a three foot extension to get the bolt off.
Do not drill or cut any part of the frame.
Some cars have a hole that will line up with the bolt for a 3' extension. Look for a Hole to use.
 
  #12  
Old 12-06-04, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by GWIZ
In my first post.
I'm NOT saying, Cut off the head of the Bolt !
(DO NOT cut off the head)
(you need the head to unscrew the bolt).
its only Grinding the portion of the bolt that touches the pulley.
I would Cut off the pulley before I would cut off the bolt.
If the grinder cant get in. try a 1/8" stub drill.(wear safety glasses).
I don't see that being very easy to accomplish without destroying the pulley. All the torque is due to the down force of the bolt. If the head was removed, the stud with wind out easily with a pick. You could even put a small slot in the end and use a screwdriver.
 
  #13  
Old 12-06-04, 08:00 PM
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Like I stated in my first post.
It can be 1000 times harder to remove the remaining portion of the bolt if its rusted to the threads.

No its not easy, Grinding under the head of the bolt.
trying to remove a jammed stud is 1000 times harder.
I had to remove Broken Bolts, Broken taps, Broken easy-outs.
Easy-outs only work 20% of the time, most snap. try to remove that.

Most of the time I had to use a Hi speed grinder to grind out the broken item in the hole.(now that's not easy).

Maybe the stud will spin out if the head is removed.
If not. I cant put into words the grief (emotional suffering) that goes with trying to remove a seized stud.

READ post # 8 he knows.

You cant take the chance that the stud will just spin out with a screwdriver.

Some Options:
Destroying the pulley is a better and last option, then removing the crank.
Replace the pulley (if you drill into it). Don't drill into the crank.
Spend a week trying to remove the remaining portion of the bolt if its rusted to the threads,
and you only have 1 square foot under the car to work in, on your back.
Remove the motor to pull out the crank?
 
  #14  
Old 12-06-04, 08:08 PM
ddckec
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THANK YOU ALL
well well heres how it happened. and let me say it blows my mind

i bought a 1/2" breaker bar (kobalt only i say) and some liquid wrench ( brand is GUNK)

i coated the bolt two times at about 15 min appart.

put on the bar with a two foot pipe and gave it hell !!! and nothing

then i took my hammer and gave it about 6 semi blows ( not full force, do to lack of space) put the bar back on with out the pipe, and went to snug a good grip and it broke (i applied little to no force) like it was a new bolt. i thought that was weird that it came off that easy after i spent two days trying. I think it was the liquid wrench and the hammer my self.

i have one more question but that will be a new post

ANY THEROYS
 
  #15  
Old 12-07-04, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by GWIZ
Like I stated in my first post.
It can be 1000 times harder to remove the remaining portion of the bolt if its rusted to the threads.
Crank bolts don't rust. All the torque is caused by the tightening force applied from the torque. Once the head pressure is removed, it will come out with your fingers as the poster has just proven.
 
  #16  
Old 12-07-04, 04:22 PM
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The original question has been answered so this post is now closed.
 
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