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toyota mr2 prob


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12-30-04, 03:25 PM   #1  
mr2luvr
mr2 problem

Hello all:
I am having a problem with my 87 mr2. It runs great when the motor is cold. But, as soon as it warms up, it starts running like crap. It stalls and dies. But when it is started (even after it is warm) it will run great for about 15-20 seconds, and then stall again. It is really weird. Why would it run perfect when it is cold? Any advice you could offer is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

Ben


Last edited by Doug Aleshire; 12-30-04 at 03:48 PM. Reason: No E-mails/Advertising or Soliciation Allowed
 
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12-30-04, 04:27 PM   #2  
Welcome to the forums

Sorry that one of the Mods had to edit your post but e-mail addresses are not allowed.

Now lets see if we can help: See if any codes are present.

Jump out the terminal Te and E1 in the check connector under the hood. They are the same ones you would jump to set the timing (see the decal on the underside of the hood)

Read the blinks of the check engine lite with the key on. They are single digit codes.... Post back.

 
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12-30-04, 04:57 PM   #3  
mr2luvr
mr2 problem

Hi Larry,
Thank you for responding so quickly. This problem is really frustrating me. I was going to check the codes but the Check engine light has not come on. So, I don't think that the ECU has recorded any problems. I have been told that there might be air in the coolant. Think that would cause all this? Otherwise its an air/fuel problem, right?

The engine air release valve was broken when I bought the car and nobody carries the part. So, I can't really bleed the air out of the coolant system. Any advice on this?

Thanks Again!

Ben

 
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12-30-04, 05:08 PM   #4  
I would still check for codes, ECU watches all the time, could be witness to the crime, good detective always interviews all possible witnesses.

If bleeders are broken have or borrow a coolant air evac. It should not cause it to stall unless too low to begin with. Try adjusting the speed screw (the big one on the throttle body pointing up, may have a rubber plug on it)

 
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12-30-04, 05:16 PM   #5  
mr2luvr
mr2 problem

I have played with the idle screw. Pretty sure that isn't it. I will check the codes. But, is there anything else that you can think of that might cause this problem? I've checked the vacuum hoses, and didn't find any leaks. I cleaned the throttle body, replaced the fuel filter and hoses, tested most the valves with an ohmmeter, tested the injectors, and some other minor things. I will check thecodes tomorrow to see if there is anything in the ECU. If there isn't, will it eliminate any problems that would have registered on the ECU?

Thanks again,
Ben

 
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12-30-04, 05:28 PM   #6  
What is the idle speed and how to you keep it running?

Does it ever idle warm and at what speed.

 
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12-30-04, 05:33 PM   #7  
mr2luvr
mr2 problem

At initial startup it idles around 2000 RPM, after it warms up it will idle at about 1200 and then suddenly start bogging and surging until it eventually dies.

 
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12-30-04, 05:41 PM   #8  
Sounds like its air (in the coolant) in the Air by-pass valve for cold high idle. When this happens it keeps the idle up when warm and the ECU puts it in fuel cut.

Hence the surging...high idle TPS see idle...ECU thinks decell=fuel cut....idle drops......idle screw into far=too low idle speed=stalls.

You haven't messed with the TPS or the little idle screw with the 8mm lock nut with the yellow paint?

 
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12-30-04, 05:45 PM   #9  
mr2luvr
mr2 problem

sounds like you really know your stuff Larry. No, I haven't messed with the TPS yet (other than taking off the electrical harness to see what happened) , and the only throttle screw I have touched is the idle screw on the throttle body. Is that the one?

Ben

 
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12-30-04, 05:57 PM   #10  
The idle screw is about 3/8" round and recessed in the top of the throttle body. The one on the side that is the throttle lever stop screw that has the 8mm lock nut (you should never adjust, it will cause problems)

 
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12-30-04, 06:01 PM   #11  
mr2luvr
mr2 problem

ok....so I should check the coolant, and diagnostic codes?

 
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12-30-04, 06:25 PM   #12  
mr2luvr
mr2 problem

Well thanks for your help Larry. I'll try to let you know how it goes.

Ben

 
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12-31-04, 03:06 PM   #13  
mr2luvr
mr2 problem

OK Larry,
I checked the diagnostic codes. It flashed 11 times and in the manual that says: air conditioner switch ON or idle switch OFF during diagnosis check. I made sure that the AC switch was off...what is the idle switch?

Thanks,
Ben

 
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12-31-04, 03:10 PM   #14  
mr2luvr
toyota mr2 prob

(Please see "mr2 problem" below)

Larry helped me with this yesterday and I followed his instructions, but came up with something that is confusing me. The diagnostic code that the car indicated was 11 flashes which in the manual means "air conditioner switch ON or idle switch OFF during diagnostic check". I verified that the a/c switch was not on...what is the idle switch? Anyone know?

Thanks in advance...

Ben

 
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12-31-04, 04:15 PM   #15  
Duplicate threads for the same problem will just confuse everybody. Toyotaman is definately the guy with the answers for your problem but he'll most likely answer you in the original thread and delete or close this one..

 
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12-31-04, 04:36 PM   #16  
I did merge them together, it's best to stay with one thread:

Code 11 switch signal is because the TPS is not seeing idle...Thats what messing with that 8mm locknut idle screw will get you (the one with the yellow paint)

You need to adjust the tps.

 
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12-31-04, 04:55 PM   #17  
mr2luvr
Ah.... Great! I just bought this car 9 days ago, and I haven't messed with that screw...but I know not to mess with it now. So the TPS is causing it to die?

I'll adjust the TPS and let you know how it goes. I measured the TPS with an ohmmeter, and didn't get anything on the meter...is it bad or just out of adjustment?

You've been a big help Larry...thanks!

Ben

 
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01-01-05, 06:51 AM   #18  
I doubt the TPS is bad.

You should have four wires on it, turn the key to “on” and use a voltmeter to back probe the wires of the TPS while every thing is connected.

Connect the neg test lead to the neg battery terminal. Use a heavy-duty “t” shaped pushpin to probe the TPS connector.

Start at the end opposite the brown wire…..You should have 12 or 5 v

Next wire should have a variable voltage in relation to throttle movement

Next wire should be 0 volts, you will have 12 or 5 volts (here lies your problem)

Loosen the TPS screws and turn the switch till the meter just reads “0”. Tighten it. Recheck by just the slightest movement the throttle the meter will go to 5 or 12v. Then when at idle it should read “0v” again.

 
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01-02-05, 03:32 PM   #19  
mr2luvr
Ok.....readjusted the TPS and it seems to be running a lot better. It doesn't die at idle anymore. But, it is still surging some.. It only seems to be doing it now when I give it a lot of throttle. Also, the clutch is bad, so that probably has something to to with it. I think it was probably a combination of air in the coolant, tps misaligned, and idle off a bit. Regardless, your input was crucial. So thanks a lot!

Hope you had a happy New Year!
I'm going to remember you for next time if thats alright. You really know your stuff.

Best Regards,
Ben

 
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01-02-05, 04:06 PM   #20  
Glad you were able to fix it. Good job!

 
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