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  #1  
Old 11-20-01, 05:04 AM
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Question 1994 Chevy 1/2 ton 2WD Brake trouble

I have a 1994 Chevy 1/2 ton 2WD with a 350 motor. The brakes are acting funny and have been for quite some time.
First let me explain the trouble. When the brakes are applied the whole truck vibrates, sometimes violently. The wheels do not shake back and forth as would be noticed by the steering wheel. The truck still stops, but the whole front end seems to shake.
I have replaces the drums in the rear and the rotors in the front. As a note the rotors in the front were NOT warped. This did not resolve the problem.
I replaced the front wheel bearing assembly. This did not solve the problem.
I thought the calipers may be sticking. I replaced the front calipers (both of them). This did not solve the problem or make it any better.
The ball joints are not damaged or worn as far as I can see.
I had a front end alagnment done in about 4 months ago. It was not far off to begin with. The mechanic thought it was warped rotors that was causing the probels. But, clearly its not.
It has been about 3 months since I made all of the replacements.
I removed the rotors to check if they are still running true and they are. They are not warped.

What could be the problem??????????
 
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Old 01-25-05, 09:46 AM
trainee
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Racing Starter

Problem with electrical running to my starter. Car used for drag racing, so the wiring is different than a street car.

I have a wire to run power from the battery to a control box that has a 12 V trigger wire running to the solenoid to the starter. This also is tied to a safety switch, remote starter button, then to the starter.

Sometimes the starter works instantly other times only clicks. I have ckd the battery, changed the direct wire from the battery to the starter. Also, the starter turns over everytime, if I touch a screw driver to the starter post. I am at a stand still with this.
What gauge wire should I use? battery 10 amp load I am in training and hope I have provided enough info to help me out.
 
  #3  
Old 01-25-05, 03:50 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Pittsburgh,Pa
Posts: 2,417
Do you have some type of diagram you could post or email me?Do you know how to do a voltage drop test?If so you need to test your circuit that way and find the offending component.Testing during a failure would be best.Have you checked all grounds on the car?Use the heaviest guage wire you can to help deal with the header heat.Also solder any crimp connections you make.
 
  #4  
Old 01-26-05, 12:04 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 132
I can't speak for anyone elses computer... mine shows rotor runout concern as the headliner...

For the original poster... brake shudder is usually a brake rotor concern... machine/replace is the way to go.

Racing starter.... WTF is a racing starter. There's just not quite enough info. Is the battery in the trunk? All connections clean/shiney/tight? There is nothing really special about aftermarket permag motor starters and te usual diagnostics apply.
 
  #5  
Old 02-01-05, 05:00 AM
chuck_zc
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Brake problem.
Did you have the rear shoes replaced before the problem arose. If the shoes were replaced,check to see if they were installed correctly. There's a long and short lining. Short lining ususally goes toward the front of the vehicle. If reversed the shoes will lock and give you the same symptoms.

Starter problem.
I'll assume you're running a chev starter.Probally one of those gear reduction ones. Looks like you're looking a bad starter solenoid. The contact ring inside the solenoid wears and pits after a while causing a bad connection to the field coils and brushes. Keep us informed.
 
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