91 chevy truck wont crank - starter?

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  #1  
Old 01-27-05, 05:32 AM
ryndel
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91 chevy truck wont crank - starter?

I have a 91 chevy 1/2ton w/ a 350. A couple of days ago it wouldnt crank, and I wrote it off to the cold morning. The next day it cranked just fine, but now its back to nothing. Battery tested good. I want to take off the starter and have it tested. How hard is this to do? Will i have to remove any other parts?
 
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Old 01-28-05, 04:18 PM
billys68ss's Avatar
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Removing the starter on this vehicle is quite easy. Remove the battery cables (negative first) and then remove the 2 bolts sticking straight down on the starter. You may have to remove the wires before you unbolt the starter, but then there may be enough slack in the wire to do it when you get it down. The latter being the easiest. Before you remove the starter, check the voltage at your battery. Then check the voltage going to the starter while trying to crank it. If these show at least 12 volts then give the starter a little smack. Hopefully you will hear a little tink where the solenoid disengages. If it starts then you most likely do in fact need a starter.
Hope this helps ya,
Billy
 
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Old 01-30-05, 09:23 AM
ryndel
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Thanks for the reply.

I finally made it over to the auto store to buy a chiltons. Once I had that in hand, it was very easy.
recap:
1. disconnect negative battery connection at battery.
2. take out two main bolts (pointing downward)
3. disconnect both wires.
4. slide it off.
(mine had a heat shield over the starter motor which i had to take off in order to slide it out.)


Thanks again.
 
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Old 01-30-05, 04:58 PM
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Glad you got it.
Billy
 
  #5  
Old 01-31-05, 08:01 PM
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starter problem

Any luck fixing your problem? I've had 2 chevy trucks that eventually had

that same problem. I traced it both times to a wiring harness problem, there

is a harness that runs from side to side, next to the firewall, just below the

ignition distributor. There is a 3-way soldered connection at this point, 1

wire goes to the starter solenoid, 1 wire goes to the ignition switch, and the

3rd one comes forward and I think that one goes to alternator, but never

traced it completely. From my experience, that 3-way solder joint fails and

a loose connection causes the intermmittant problem, until vibration or engine

movement causes complete separation of these wires at this connection.

It's not easy to get to, and before your'e done you'll wish you'd pulled the

engine. If your'e a good contortionist and have lots of patience,it's do-able.

Before you tackle that, best to check the "easier" stuff first. It's also possible

to partially burn through a starter wire because the heat shield came loose

from the starter.(the starter wires are close to the exhaust manifold on most

V-engines)
 
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