Stuck brake bleeders,what to do??

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  #1  
Old 01-30-05, 05:51 PM
rcers
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Stuck brake bleeders,what to do??

The kids and I loaded up the truck(93 F150 4wd)and trailer today with all 3 bikes and gear,took off down the road and got a few blocks away when the brake pedal went flat *!#%$*.I did manage to get it home and back in the driveway where it belongs.When checking things out I noticed a front brake line had a hole rusted into it near the frame,fluid was shooting everywhere.Its the line that goes from the master cylinder to the 3 way block where it splits off for both front wheels.
The first thing I did was to spend a hour removing the WRONG line from the master cylinder *#%$*.Now I have to bleed the rear brakes too.When I finally got the correct line removed,the auto parts was closed.In preparation for bleeding them when I get the lines fixed,I tried to loosen the bleeders.ALL 4 BLEEDERS are stuck solid.I really hate the idea of snapping the bleeders off at the wheel cylinders,does anyone have any good tricks for freeing stuck bleeders?
Do the dealerships sell pre-bent brake lines so I dont have to bend my own?
THANK YOU for any tips or ideas you may have.
rcers
 
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  #2  
Old 01-30-05, 06:00 PM
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You might get lucky with dealer and the prebent tubing, but it will be a several days wait at best. No one is going to stock that kind of stuff. Sorry!!! For the bleeders I like to use a socket. It is much better than a wrench in my opinion and experience. But be sure to use a 6 point socket as a 12 point socket will only add tot he problems by rounding the bleeders off. Try spraying some penetrant on them and let it set awhile before you go at them with whatever tool you choose. Since you are going to have to wait until at least tomorrow to get the part then I would let them sit over night and hit it with penetrant at least a couple of times.
Good Luck.
Hope this is helpful to ya,
Billy
 
  #3  
Old 01-30-05, 06:27 PM
backyardhndyman
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i have been in ur shoes many times b4

i wld try heating ur bleeders slightly with a small propane torch watch to make sure ur do not aim at anything that may start a fire then after u heat them immediatel spray sum starter fluid on them works gr8 and snaps rust loose if still tight heat again then spray sum penetrating oil on them may need to do more then once good luck
 
  #4  
Old 01-30-05, 06:56 PM
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I dont think I would use any heat source that closely to rubber components. You heat up the wheel cylinder a little too much and you just melted your seals. Not a good idea.
Billy
 
  #5  
Old 01-30-05, 07:56 PM
GlassesRx
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I agree, fire and rubber are not friends! LOL. Use some good liquid wrench, or WD40 and let it work in. If that still doesn't work and you strip that little bleeder screw...a new caliper isn't that much anyways. Might be time to change em anyways. A sign from above! Good luck with the screw.
 
  #6  
Old 01-30-05, 08:04 PM
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For future reference I always keep a little grease smeared around the bleed screws. When you are under the car for any reason it is easy to do and I have never had a stuck bleed screw since I started doing this. I also smear some grease around the metal brake line nuts. It keeps the nuts from rusting to the metal line and twisting the line in to when it is time to change a brake hose.
 
  #7  
Old 01-30-05, 08:08 PM
GlassesRx
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Good advice CarNut! Thumbs up for you!
 
  #8  
Old 01-30-05, 08:11 PM
backyardhndyman
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i agree

i agree fire and rubber dont mix but i have heated many bleeders and never had a probllem u do need to be careful tho not to point flame at any rubber u can remove brake lines so they are not in ur way and u dont heat that much just enuf to make the bleeder itself hot to the touch so it can draw ur penetrating oil down in farther like i said i have done this many times b4 without trbles but if u do not feel comfortable dont do it using starter fluid alone directly onto the bleeder just to cool the bleeder fom its normal temperature also helps then after u use the starter fluid add sum penetrating oil again this is why i said to be careful not to point towards anything flamable
 
  #9  
Old 01-30-05, 08:16 PM
GlassesRx
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You're a braver man than me BackYard! Then again, since they're stuck, what do you have to loose! If/when my bleeders get stuck and WD's not working.....I'll give your method a try. Kind of a fun thought! Got marshmellows?
 
  #10  
Old 01-30-05, 08:22 PM
backyardhndyman
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as i said uneed to be careful

just keep the flame low and keep close eye on itthat it doesnt get to any rubber and u dont need to heat very longbut it is a trick fathertaught me and i have had alot of success with and if ur careful can save ur caliper a good idea wld be to replace the bleeder screw afterwards and apply sum anti seez before reinstalling
 
  #11  
Old 01-31-05, 02:44 AM
rcers
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THX for all the great responses.
 
  #12  
Old 01-31-05, 06:12 AM
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BackYard.... Why are you using starting fluid? That will only add to the uncontrollability of your flame. You already have concentrated flame, why do you need an accellerant?
Billy
 
  #13  
Old 02-15-05, 02:09 AM
backyardhndyman
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sry havent checked my mail in few days

but in respose u do not use the starting fluid while u heat the bleader u use it after the bleeder is already headed it will quickly cool off the bleeder faster than the rest of ur brake caliper when sprayed directly on the bleeder hence snapping the rust loose
 
  #14  
Old 02-15-05, 04:19 AM
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If you start heating anything you better remove the hose from the system or they will pop.Wheel cylinders and calipers are not that much for your truck and are probably at the end of their life span anyhow.Apply penetrant and tap on the end of the bleeder that will help to loosen the rust.I personally don't care to spray flammable liquids towards any heat source flame or not.So I feel the starting fluid is a safety risk.If it's just to cool the bleeder water would do that.
 
  #15  
Old 02-16-05, 02:09 AM
backyardhndyman
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ok let me see if i can explain this even better

apparently no1 is reading all of what i said at 1ce so i wil try this again as i said befor....before u do anything remove the brakeline so it is no where near ur flame aim the small torch in a direction where NOTHING FLAMABLE will be involved but aim directly on ur bleeder so as little as possible other than the bleeder gets heated heat the bleeder remove the torch shut it off then spray either directly on the bleeder to cool it very fast this will snap rust loose reason u dont use water is because wld take longer allowing all the metals near the bleeder to cool at same time if the bleeder cools faster than the metal caliper it will free it then u remove the bleederwith ease and replace it this is only in case normal penetrating oil alone does not work yes brake calipers are not that expensive unless u have to replace them everytime u simply want to bleed ur brakes becaus its time to replace brake shoes or a line or a master cylinder or 1 of the other calipers. If u are carefull u shld not ruin anything and cld save urself sum money also as i said b4 i have done this many times b4 even for other nuts and bolts and in no case have i ever had problems with this practice and it made the impossible simple when penetrating oil wld not work also as i said b4 if u do not feel comfortable DONT DO IT no1 is holding a gun to any1s head its merely a helpful suggestion. ok hope u all understand me now.
 
  #16  
Old 02-16-05, 03:56 AM
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Originally Posted by backyardhndyman
i agree fire and rubber dont mix but i have heated many bleeders and never had a probllem u do need to be careful tho not to point flame at any rubber u can remove brake lines so they are not in ur way and u dont heat that much just enuf to make the bleeder itself hot to the touch so it can draw ur penetrating oil down in farther like i said i have done this many times b4 without trbles but if u do not feel comfortable dont do it using starter fluid alone directly onto the bleeder just to cool the bleeder fom its normal temperature also helps then after u use the starter fluid add sum penetrating oil again this is why i said to be careful not to point towards anything flamable
I stand corrected you did say disconnect the brake line in your run on sentence or is it a run on paragraph?But the fact remains when you spray flammable liquids on a hot surface they can ignite and cause personal injury,hence my warning.If you could punctuate your posts maybe reading them would be possible.Also proper English helps others in understanding what is being read.
 
  #17  
Old 02-17-05, 07:19 PM
wagonman76
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Stuck bleeders happens to me all the time, even with anti-seize on them. To get them out, I use a socket and ratchet. Before doing anything, I scrape down any crud as close to the threads as I can, then let them soak in Liquid Wrench. I also tap on the end of the bleeder with a hammer. If they still wont come out, Ill hammer on them to hopefully break the seal, while using more penetrant. I keep spare bleeder screws on hand in case I beat it up too bad. This usually works. If it still doesnt work and it ends up snapping off, I drill out the old screw and install a 1/8 NPT bleeder repair kit for $6, I try to keep at least one on hand too. My cars are old and my front calipers are about $20 each with exchange, and the rears are about $90 each with exchange.

Lately Ive been not even bothering to replace bleeders the right way. What works better for me is to just drill them all out to the 1/8 NPT, and install a brass pipe plug. Then when I go to bleed the brakes, I just unscrew the plug and screw in a barb fitting with a piece of hose on it. I kink and clamp the hose, pump up the master cylinder with my homemade power bleeder, then unkink the hose till the bubbles are gone. Then rekink the hose, depressurize the master cylinder, and unscrew the barb fitting and replace the pipe plug.
 
  #18  
Old 03-07-05, 03:14 PM
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If you've tried all these methods, and still haven't freed them up. go to walmart, or other hardware store, and buy a can of PB Blaster. Worth it's weight in GOLD. Whoever designed this stuff, must be a millionaire by now. Spray all four bleeders, and by the time you get to the 4th one, you will probably be able to free up the 1st one you sprayed. I've used this stuff to free up drivetrain bolts on a 1946 ford. I pounded on it for about 20 minutes with a rachet and hammer - wouldn't budge. Sprayed it with PB blaster, let it sit for about 10 mins, and it broke loose on the first few TAPS of the hammer.
 
  #19  
Old 10-08-10, 01:19 PM
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How To Bleed Your Brakes in Three Easy Steps

1. Add brake fluid to the Motive Power Brake Bleeder tank.

2. Firmly connect the supplied adapter to brake master cylinder and pump the Motive Power Brake Bleeder to pressurize.

3. Starting with the furthest away brake bleeder valve (typically on the rear of the vehicle), open brake bleeder valve and purge the air and old brake fluid from your brake system.

For more info visit: **** NOADSALLOWED.com
 

Last edited by Shadeladie; 10-08-10 at 01:45 PM. Reason: Link removed. Advertising not allowed.
  #20  
Old 10-08-10, 01:59 PM
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The product in the link below frees:

Bleeders
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You name it. Works in minutes.

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  #21  
Old 09-26-12, 08:53 PM
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Found your thread about loosening stuck bleeder valves and want to thank you for a great tip. After struggling for hours trying to break them free, your tip to use the starter fluid worked great!! It only took 2min to get them loose. Thanks again.
 
  #22  
Old 09-29-12, 06:59 AM
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Just to put a finer point on this be sure the hyd system is open somewhere before heating anything. I have had them blow up when there was no where for the expanding fluid to go when it was heated. WD-40 is neither a good penetrant nor lubricant. Go with Blaster or Kroil. Dont comment on another persons advice,state your case and leave it go at that. People are smart enough to pick the best course,if not we cleaned up the gene pool some.
 
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