Pinion Seal


Old 03-12-05, 08:52 PM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 114
Pinion Seal

1997 chevy Tahoe, 4door, 2wheel drive. Rear pinion seal is leaking, is possible to replace the pinion seal with having to replace the crush sleeve (I guess gm still is using the crush sleeve)?
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Old 03-12-05, 09:40 PM
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 478
I expect it has a crush sleeve. Call the dealer & see. If so you can't use a new one unless you take the ring gear out so you can check the pre load on the pinion bearings. You can measure the torque it takes to break the nut loose and then use the old one and tighten a new nut back to the same torque. You will need to be able to hold the pinion flange from turning.

If you dont have the right tool you can have a helper put a big pipe wrench on the flange & let it hit the floor of the vehicle to keep it from turning. You will need a big torque wrench as they are usually 300 ft lbs or more. You will need a 3/4" or 1" breaker bar as a 1/2" will bend or break. I have used a hydraulic jack on a 1/2" breaker bar when I was young & dumb. I highly recomend against it.
Old 03-13-05, 05:19 AM
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Pittsburgh,Pa
Posts: 2,417
Yes it has a collapsible spacer.You can also mark the pinion shaft and pinion nut to get it back to where it was.I usually go 1/16" past the match mark so it doesn't loosen up by itself.I have never had a problem doing it that way.If you do decide to install a new collapsible spacer I suggest renting or borrowing a torque multiplier to turn the pinion nut.The pinion preload is 10-20 inch pounds for used bearings.
Old 03-13-05, 07:28 PM
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 478
Just remember if you use a new sleeve you need to take the ring gear out to check the pre load on the ring gear bearings. The pre load is the torque it takes to keep the pinion shaft rotating. Disregard the torque it takes to get it to start rotating.

Then you have to make sure you get the correct back lash and the correct pre load on the ring gear bearings. You should not use the old ring gear bearing spacers. They are cast iron & you could crack or break the 2nd one when you pound it in. You can use the original for the first one you put in but you need to buy steel ones from GM to match the thickness of the old one that came out.

I would not fool with taking the ring gear out if I were you.

Davo---- Why do you need a torque multiplier? Why not just use an inch pound torque wrench? Also aren't you concerned about re using the nut since it will loose some of its self locking capability?

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