a/c compressor

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Old 03-13-05, 12:14 AM
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Question a/c compressor

I am replacing the a/c compressor on my car and I some people have said that i should replace the dryer too. I'm not sure what that is and if it needs done. I had the compressor replaced at a shop about a year and a half ago, 800 miles ago, and they replaced the compressor, acculmulator and converted it from r-12 to r-134a . The car is a 93 grand am with the 4 cyl. 2.3L sohc. any info would be appreciated.
 
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Old 03-13-05, 05:48 AM
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Hold on back up the truck for a minute.What is wrong with the new compressor that was installed 800 miles ago?You need to find out why it failed unless you want to keep replacing the compressor.Does the cooling fan work properly?Was the a/c system flushed during the last replacement?Do you have an a/c leak?Please tell me you are not using boneyard a/c parts.
 
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Old 03-13-05, 06:26 AM
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Davo is right. Without knowing the cause of the failure, the history, the symtoms, and make/model, it would be anyones guess as to whether or not you should replace the accumulator.

Just in case you think this is a DIY job, you should know that you need a vacuum pump tool when replacing the compressor. You can not pop in a new compressor as you would an alternator.
 
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Old 03-13-05, 08:53 PM
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ac

At the time when it got it done i did not know that much about cars, and it was my grandmas car. she got the work done that they said needed done. They replcaced the compressor with a rebuilt compressor and installed a new accumlator. and converted the system to 134a. Then there was just no cold air blowing when the ac was on. this time there is a grinding whenever the car is on. I think it is the clutch or bearings or something on the compressor. it makes a horrible grinding noise and you can see steel shavings all over the side of the pully that the belt wraps around.
 
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Old 03-13-05, 09:48 PM
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accumulator has the same function as a drier they both remove moisture from the a/c system and yes it should be replaced along with the orfice tube and probably needs system flushed also to prevent damage to the new compressor.
you can also get a variable orfice tube that acts like an expansion valve wich will offer better performance on vehicles that have been retrofitted to r134a
the system will need a vacum pulled on it as stated failing to do so will result in excessive high side pressure and shortened compressor life along with poor performance and you will need to use a r134a compatible oil so you should see a shop even if its just for pulling a vacum and filling the system.
 
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Old 03-14-05, 04:46 PM
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ac

I took the compressor off today and found out a few things. The shop it was replaced at before didn't use any oil, just the 134a, and it was a junkyard compressor, not a rebuilt one.
 
  #7  
Old 03-16-05, 08:49 AM
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Well, that explains that. Next go-around the mechanic should (at a minimum):

- Flush out the system of any debris, since the compressor probably seized
- Add the recommended amount of lubricant compatible with r134 refrigerant
- Add an in-line filter before the compressor if debris is found in the system
- New dryer/accumulator
- New or rebuilt compressor
- Vacuum to evacuate air
- Recharge to proper level

Was the mechanic who originally did the job licensed (or any other qualification)?

If such a shoddy job was done the first time, I would visit the o-rings and make sure they are r134-compatible. They are usually changed out with green ones during a conversion (though color isn't a guarantee the correct compound is in there).

It would be a good idea to add UV dye to the system during this repair to aid in any future diagnostics. Most good mechanics do this anyhow.
 
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