Oxygen sensor on a Ford Escort 1993
#1
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Oxygen sensor on a Ford Escort 1993
How difficult is it to replace the Oxygen sensor on a Ford Escort 1993.
I saw the technician years ago doing it. it did not seem that difficult.
My check engine light is on,and I think it is coming from the oxygen sensor.
It was changed 120000 miles ago.
I bet you it is time again.
Need some help and advise.
Thanks
Jm
I saw the technician years ago doing it. it did not seem that difficult.
My check engine light is on,and I think it is coming from the oxygen sensor.
It was changed 120000 miles ago.
I bet you it is time again.
Need some help and advise.
Thanks
Jm
#2
Super easy on these cars
But pull the codes before you replace anything
Yes, it's probably time to change your sensor anyway
But until you pull the codes it's a guess that that is lighting your Check Engine Light
See if there is a DIY parts place (Autozone, etc.) that'll read codes for you for free
Just don't buy anything until you post the codes here
And don't change the sensor then have them read, have them read first
There is also a way to read them with a voltmeter if need be
But pull the codes before you replace anything
Yes, it's probably time to change your sensor anyway
But until you pull the codes it's a guess that that is lighting your Check Engine Light
See if there is a DIY parts place (Autozone, etc.) that'll read codes for you for free
Just don't buy anything until you post the codes here
And don't change the sensor then have them read, have them read first
There is also a way to read them with a voltmeter if need be
#4
The check engine light (CEL) comes on when the on-board computer detects a problem
(The computer cannot detect all problems, but some)
Somewhere on the car is a place to hook up a scanner/code reader that when hooked up will "read" the trouble codes that on-board computer (in your case Ford's EEC-IV) has stored
These codes are numbers such as 111, or 181
They indicate things such as, for example, "system pass" or "oxygen sensor reading lean condition" or some such (this does not mean the O2 sensor is bad, it means something is making the engine run lean)
This is often refered to as "pulling" or "reading" the codes
It's a good idea to have someone experienced interpret the numbers to try and figure out what is actually wrong with the car
That's why I said post the codes here before buying parts
The guys here are great at interpreting the numbers
Auto-zone will read codes for free, but I've heard some won't read a car this old
I don't know about Kragens
If you can find no-one to read/pull the codes for you, it can be done (by you) with a voltmeter
It's just alot easier to plug in a scanner
(The computer cannot detect all problems, but some)
Somewhere on the car is a place to hook up a scanner/code reader that when hooked up will "read" the trouble codes that on-board computer (in your case Ford's EEC-IV) has stored
These codes are numbers such as 111, or 181
They indicate things such as, for example, "system pass" or "oxygen sensor reading lean condition" or some such (this does not mean the O2 sensor is bad, it means something is making the engine run lean)
This is often refered to as "pulling" or "reading" the codes
It's a good idea to have someone experienced interpret the numbers to try and figure out what is actually wrong with the car
That's why I said post the codes here before buying parts
The guys here are great at interpreting the numbers
Auto-zone will read codes for free, but I've heard some won't read a car this old
I don't know about Kragens
If you can find no-one to read/pull the codes for you, it can be done (by you) with a voltmeter
It's just alot easier to plug in a scanner
#5
Member
check for codes with a voltmeter???
Originally Posted by slickshift
The check engine light (CEL) comes on when the on-board computer detects a problem
(The computer cannot detect all problems, but some)
Somewhere on the car is a place to hook up a scanner/code reader that when hooked up will "read" the trouble codes that on-board computer (in your case Ford's EEC-IV) has stored
These codes are numbers such as 111, or 181
They indicate things such as, for example, "system pass" or "oxygen sensor reading lean condition" or some such (this does not mean the O2 sensor is bad, it means something is making the engine run lean)
This is often refered to as "pulling" or "reading" the codes
It's a good idea to have someone experienced interpret the numbers to try and figure out what is actually wrong with the car
That's why I said post the codes here before buying parts
The guys here are great at interpreting the numbers
Auto-zone will read codes for free, but I've heard some won't read a car this old
I don't know about Kragens
If you can find no-one to read/pull the codes for you, it can be done (by you) with a voltmeter
It's just alot easier to plug in a scanner
(The computer cannot detect all problems, but some)
Somewhere on the car is a place to hook up a scanner/code reader that when hooked up will "read" the trouble codes that on-board computer (in your case Ford's EEC-IV) has stored
These codes are numbers such as 111, or 181
They indicate things such as, for example, "system pass" or "oxygen sensor reading lean condition" or some such (this does not mean the O2 sensor is bad, it means something is making the engine run lean)
This is often refered to as "pulling" or "reading" the codes
It's a good idea to have someone experienced interpret the numbers to try and figure out what is actually wrong with the car
That's why I said post the codes here before buying parts
The guys here are great at interpreting the numbers
Auto-zone will read codes for free, but I've heard some won't read a car this old
I don't know about Kragens
If you can find no-one to read/pull the codes for you, it can be done (by you) with a voltmeter
It's just alot easier to plug in a scanner

#6
Originally Posted by unclejack
This sounds very interesting and worth knowing how to do? Could you explain how to do this?? 

It can vary a bit but this'll get you in the ball park
Ford 1.9 Liter with EEC-IV
Locate the EEC diagnostic Self-Test Output connector
Often behind the battery or near the upper driver’s side firewall in the engine bay
With the key in the off position connect the voltmeter
The positive (+ )voltmeter goes to the positive (+) battery
Picture the Self Test Output as 2 rows of pins, 2 pins on top row, 4 on bottom
The Self Test Input is the separate terminal near the STO
The negative (-) voltmeter goes to the STO, 2nd pin from the left on the bottom row
Then jump the STI (separate terminal) to the STO, 2nd pin from left, top row ( that would be the right one of the two)
Key On Engine Off (KOEO):
Turn the ignition to ON (But not Start)
Disconnect and reconnect the STI terminal jumper
Count the sweeps of the voltmeter (or count the flashes of the Check Engine Light CEL)
Sweep (or flash), sweep, sweep…pause…sweep, sweep , sweep…long pause….would be code 33 (EGR not opening) etc.
Continuous memory and Key On Engine Running (KOER) codes can be “pulled” the same way
Warm up the engine for 2 minutes at 2K RPM
Turn off and restart the engine with the voltmeter hooked up this way
CM: after the first code (ID code) press and release the brake and turn the steering wheel ½ turn
KOER: after first code (3 sweeps) blip the throttle
A '93 would use 3 digit codes 111 being system pass