1962 olds 494 ci. 4 bar. carb.


Old 04-05-05, 05:54 PM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2003
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Unhappy 1962 olds 494 ci. 4 bar. carb.

hi I realy have a problem got a 1962 olds 394 4 bar. carb. got the points set at 18 thous. dwell at 30 ...timing at 5 deg. before top dead center.............. rebuilt carb. did this all myself with the right tools the car has only 45,000 miles on it no ...play in the dist. or timing chain ..... no air leaks ...runs ok when I start to dive it ... after about 10 miles or so it starts to miss fire and does not want to take the gas....... like it's not getting the right kind of spark ....new points ,plugs ,wires,coil,dist. cap,rotor, ext.....is a part breaking down? the carb. I know is rebuilt right.... no flooding starts right when it is cold and hot.. engine does cut back when I mash the on the gas real hard ....can't seam to get it to run just right ..I have have worked on cars with points alot but this one is kicking my butt .....do I buy all new points and stuff or WHAT?
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Old 04-05-05, 06:16 PM
cuedude's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Key West, Fl.
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Hi Mikeray,

Not being an actual mechanic, I can only guess at your problem. I have two thoughts. First, could the fuel filter be clogged? And secondly, did you replace the condenser? Beyond that, and because it's been too many years for me to remember, I wouldn't be sure.

Old 04-05-05, 06:18 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Kansas City, Missouri.
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Need to pull the codes.

Just kidding. Did you gap the plugs?

Is the distributor vacuum advance working properly? No leaks, good vacuum?

Is the choke pull-off doing its job? Is the heat riser stuck?

Does is only act up when accelerating, or also when just crusing?

Does it use a coil ballast resistor or a resistor wire?

Are you certain you bought the right coil, etc? Most auto parts stores only go back to 1965 for listed parts. Before that, they are listed in hard to find parts books. If you need a coil for a 1962, then the parts store will often sell you the oldest one listed, i.e. 1965 or whatever there book shows. If in doubt, ask to see the actual listing yourself. My concern is that you may have a coil for an early 70's model if thats as far back as the book goes. Early Capacitive Discharge Ignition systems were available, etc, and you may have the wrong coil.

Last edited by Lugnut; 04-05-05 at 07:28 PM.
Old 04-06-05, 05:43 PM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 19
1962 olds

Hi; thanks the choke pull off is ok .it has a ballast resistor when i acelerate slow it does fair........ mash on the gas hard it cuts back bad ...I watched the vacum advance move by removing the window on the dist................ does it move and stay in place at high rpms like 2500 rpms ....when I rev the engine it moves and goes back.. even if I hold it at 2500 rpms ...also I noticed that if I set the timing at about 15 degres after top dead center it runs a little better but not right...... this is killer for me...could the condeser make it act like this .....it acted the same way with the old coil... HELP
Old 04-06-05, 06:17 PM
Lugnut's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Kansas City, Missouri.
Posts: 1,172
A bad condenser will normally only shorten the life of your points by excessive arcing in the points.

You could check voltage at the coil while its running bad, or check the ohms on the resister and compare to specs.

I think at this point I would put a vacuum gauge on that puppy and get a reading. It will help point toward something to steer you in the right direction. If you don't have a vacuum gauge, they are inexpensive items to have and they will tell you alot about whats going on in the engine, i.e. valves, timing, etc.

I'm leaving tomorrow for about a week. Good luck till then.
Old 04-06-05, 08:24 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: canada
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Hi, What was the origional problem? If the ign timing has to be @ 15 deg AFTER t.d.c to make it run better, check the timing chain, it may have jumped a tooth & need a dentist
Old 04-07-05, 03:24 AM
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,538
timing is usually set before top dead center and this may have been what you meant to say?
if its hesitating check the acelerator pump in the carb, could be weak, also check point dwell should be 30 degrees for a v-8 and set timing only after dwell is set to specification.
more info on the problem would help or hitting the reply button instead of starting a new post if you have posted about the problem before.
Old 04-07-05, 05:27 AM
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Livonia, Michigan
Posts: 923
Mike, you may want to join the following newsgroup:


There's a lot of people with old cars that can help walk you through your problem.
Old 04-07-05, 05:42 AM
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Livonia, Michigan
Posts: 923
This does sound like a jumped timing chain. One clue is that the distributor is near the end of it's adjustment... unless the distributor was removed then replaced one tooth off.

Standard check for timing chain slop is to move the crank dampner back and forth while watching for distributor movement. There should be no more than 10 slop while doing this procedure.

Most engines of that era require base ignition timing set at 10 or 12 before top dead center (BTDC). I don't know the exact specification for your car. Judging from your post it seems you have the specs in front of you. Either you got things backwards when posting to us, or you are WAY off on the base timing ad where it should be.
Old 04-07-05, 09:46 AM
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Long Island, NY
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I merged your thread

Please use the reply button instead of starting a new thread for the same problem
Old 04-11-05, 02:14 PM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 19
Talking kicked my butt ..62 olds

thanks for all the replies put another new condeser on her reset the dwell bam.. strighten her right out ....... smooth and super fast
Thanks again mikeray

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