93 buick trouble, engine was sputering and now wont start at all
#1
93 buick trouble, engine was sputering and now wont start at all
Hi,
Im new and like most here I have a problem. I have a 93 buick centry 3.3L, v6 thats been giving me heck this last week. The check engin light was kicking on for about a week or two before the engine started to sputter. It was fine when it was idling but would sputter when you pushed the gas to accelerate, it was like it was about to choke and die on me but it could run fine when on a level road and was slowly accelerated, even then it sounded like it was having trouble. It would also die when ever I turned a corner and shortly after a stop it would sputter when I accelerated again. Knowing it was past its 3000 miles I changed the oil, it did a little bit better after that but still same problem. I replaced the fuel filter and again it did a lil better but then it died on the hwy turning out of a parking lot and this time it did not start at all and hasn't since then. It does sound like its trying to turn over but I know better. since then I got my repair manual out and went to work, I replaced the crank shaft sencer and pcv and still no change. Its also not getting any spark at all, no kinks or holes in the lines. So far friends have suggested: coil pack, ECM, fuel pressure regulater, innertia switch, TPS, CPU, IAC valve. Map sencer, power brake booster, fuel pump and the three little things that sit on top of the coil pack.
What I cant seem to get across to them is that I dont have a lot of money to buy all these things or put it in the shop (not that that would help after reading some of the other post's on the other sites.) I need to know if any one els has had this problem and can help.
Im new and like most here I have a problem. I have a 93 buick centry 3.3L, v6 thats been giving me heck this last week. The check engin light was kicking on for about a week or two before the engine started to sputter. It was fine when it was idling but would sputter when you pushed the gas to accelerate, it was like it was about to choke and die on me but it could run fine when on a level road and was slowly accelerated, even then it sounded like it was having trouble. It would also die when ever I turned a corner and shortly after a stop it would sputter when I accelerated again. Knowing it was past its 3000 miles I changed the oil, it did a little bit better after that but still same problem. I replaced the fuel filter and again it did a lil better but then it died on the hwy turning out of a parking lot and this time it did not start at all and hasn't since then. It does sound like its trying to turn over but I know better. since then I got my repair manual out and went to work, I replaced the crank shaft sencer and pcv and still no change. Its also not getting any spark at all, no kinks or holes in the lines. So far friends have suggested: coil pack, ECM, fuel pressure regulater, innertia switch, TPS, CPU, IAC valve. Map sencer, power brake booster, fuel pump and the three little things that sit on top of the coil pack.
What I cant seem to get across to them is that I dont have a lot of money to buy all these things or put it in the shop (not that that would help after reading some of the other post's on the other sites.) I need to know if any one els has had this problem and can help.
#2
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start with just the basics checking all fuses and also check for spark at more than one wire check several differnt wires to see if there is any spark at all.
perhaps a parts store may be able to test your ignition module also check the codes in the computer and any codes may or may not be related to your current problem as the light was on prior to the no start condition.
obviously you wouldnt start replacing fuel related or brake related items or tps, map sensor or iac valve for a no spark condition and theres not much chance of all 3 coils going bad at the same time either.
perhaps a parts store may be able to test your ignition module also check the codes in the computer and any codes may or may not be related to your current problem as the light was on prior to the no start condition.
obviously you wouldnt start replacing fuel related or brake related items or tps, map sensor or iac valve for a no spark condition and theres not much chance of all 3 coils going bad at the same time either.
#3
can't help but wonder...
...if you didn't start with a fuel problem and the no spark happened after.
the performance situation you described doesn't sound at all like ignition to me...failed coils cause misfire...failed ign modules cause a no start but when they go, you don't get any warning...they just quit.
just for yits and grins, i'd check the fuel pressure with a guage (KOEO, pressure should be around 40 psi). i'm hoping your original problem lies there...if you have good fuel pressure, then remove the ignition module (that's the thing under the three coils) and take it to a parts store and have it tested.
i'm concerned aboput your installation of the crank sensor, it's supposed to be adjusted when installed...it's possible that if you didn't, when the balancer turned, it hit the sensor and ruined the new one. this may be the cause of the no-spark and now , in reality, you may have two problems. one thing is for sure...i'd eliminate fuel pressure first...borrow or rent a guage from autozone or advance auto parts...then go after the no-spark.
forget about all those sensors...they aren't causing your problem.
PS...it doesn't have an inertia switch...just fords
the performance situation you described doesn't sound at all like ignition to me...failed coils cause misfire...failed ign modules cause a no start but when they go, you don't get any warning...they just quit.
just for yits and grins, i'd check the fuel pressure with a guage (KOEO, pressure should be around 40 psi). i'm hoping your original problem lies there...if you have good fuel pressure, then remove the ignition module (that's the thing under the three coils) and take it to a parts store and have it tested.
i'm concerned aboput your installation of the crank sensor, it's supposed to be adjusted when installed...it's possible that if you didn't, when the balancer turned, it hit the sensor and ruined the new one. this may be the cause of the no-spark and now , in reality, you may have two problems. one thing is for sure...i'd eliminate fuel pressure first...borrow or rent a guage from autozone or advance auto parts...then go after the no-spark.
forget about all those sensors...they aren't causing your problem.
PS...it doesn't have an inertia switch...just fords
#4
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From what I can tell from your post, the car will idle. If it does, then it is not your CPS. If that is bad, no spark whatsoever. Check what you call the "coil pack" not cheap but real prone to failure on these 3.3l motors. Mine failed, to it to autozone, they checked it, said it was good. Bought a new one anyways and have been up and running ever since. Also, what codes you throwin?