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Check Engine


knanuk's Avatar
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04-23-05, 02:54 AM   #1  
Check Engine

The "check engine" light came on yesterday when my wife was out. I have looked in the "manual of our 2001 Ford Windstar and it says this is revelant to the "emission control system".
Tried removing and then putting back the gas cap - and will put some gas line anti freeze in it and also fill it up with High Test -- and hopefully it will go away.

Anything else that I should try -- it has about 24,000 miles on it

 
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04-23-05, 03:05 AM   #2  
Go have the code read that is in the EEC system. And post it. Maybe I can help you diagnosis the problem with the car.

 
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04-23-05, 06:09 AM   #3  
ASEPartsman
Cel

This vehicle had an OBD II system used on all cars sold in the U.S. after 1996. This light coming on means there is a problem detected in the emmision control system. It could be literally hundreds of different things from a sensor to a mechanical problem. The only way to know is to get someone to read the code (usually free at your local Advanc Auto Parts or Autozone.) This will tell you what sensor tripped the code and guide you in the direction of the problem.
After you have the code read follow hogfan's advice and post it on here and we may be able to help you diagnose the problem. The only way to get the light to go out is to fix the source, and have the code erased. (OBD II will store codes including pending codes indefinatly)

 
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04-23-05, 11:37 AM   #4  
Will have to see where I can get the code read around here - live very rural in Canada.

Will most likely have to go to a dealer I think .

Thanks for the input - if I get the code will let you know
Thanks again

 
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04-24-05, 07:17 AM   #5  
And BTW, if your Windstar's owner's manual doesn't call for premium gas, you are wasting your money on the hi-test. Common misconception that the gas companies love - that premium fuel has some kind of magical healing powers; ain't so.

TG


Measure it with a micrometer; cut it with an ax.

 
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04-27-05, 11:17 AM   #6  
Well, I managed to get the code read - for $10.
Reading was 0401 -- EGR Valve -

Local garage said that it may have been a piece of dirt that blocked it temporarily -- he reset the code and said that if it does come on again they will clean the valve as it is not very old.

Hope that this is the correct info

Takc care all

 
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05-05-05, 04:09 PM   #7  
Somehow my last post did not get on the Forum --

I had the valve cleaned and low and behold the next day the light came on again.

Any ideas of the next step ?

Thanks

 
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05-05-05, 07:31 PM   #8  
ASEPartsman
This is a common problem with Fords. The code for "insufficient EGR flow" usually means that the PFE/DPFE sensor is shot. There is a TSB out about this. If the vehicle is running fine, there is not likely anything wrong with the EGR valve itself. The PFE/DPFE sensor (EGR position sensor) tells the ECM how the EGR is operating. It is a metal rectangle with two vaccum lines and an electrical connector on it, usually mounted on or near the intake manifold. The replacement one will probably be their updated plastic one. This is the problem in 99% of the vehicles with that code and no driveability problems.

Hope this helps...

 
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05-06-05, 02:46 AM   #9  
Look at your EGR valve and follow the vacuum hose on the top of the valve to the other end (4-5 inches away), it's call BPT valve (Back Pressure Transducer), threre are three vacuum hoses on the BPT valve, two on top and one on the bottom, the one on the bottom is connected to the line that goes back to EGR valve with a short piece of vacuum hose about an inch (or two) long, you'll find that that little short piece of vacuum hose is broken, replace that hose first and do nothing else, the light will turns off by itseft.

 
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05-06-05, 04:44 AM   #10  
I agree with ASEPartsman, It sounds like a DPFE sensor and they will change it to plastic. See this problem alot. It's right in front bolted to the intake manifold should have a basic part number stamped on it. (-9J460-)

 
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05-06-05, 05:33 AM   #11  
But don't buy the vacuum hose from Ford; it's expensive and generic vacuum hose works just fine.


Measure it with a micrometer; cut it with an ax.

 
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05-06-05, 09:56 AM   #12  
Code readers can be had under $100 (US). I have heard of some shops charging $60 just to hook the car up to one to read the codes!
For another $100 a real time monitor can be had. Considering the price of new vehicles, $200-$300 isn't a bad price to pay to save a trip to the shop and a diagnoistic fee especially when it comes to state inspections, more so if you are in New York!

 
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05-06-05, 03:03 PM   #13  
Thanks for the information - it is invaluable.

With these new cars I haven't got a clue -- and getting too old to learn, not to mention not being able to get under them anymore.

Thanks again.

 
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