Battery Dying!

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  #1  
Old 05-05-05, 01:37 PM
danno 1
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Battery Dying!

Hi everybody, I`m new here, so bear along with me on this. I have a 96 Ram pickup that a mechanic had installed a 3" lift. As per the instructions, he had to cut and weld a 3" extension piece to the linkage that puts the tranny into park, drive etc., which is located behind the fire wall.
Now, when I put the shift selector into park and turn the ignition to off, it a little stiff just before you pull out the key, or sometimes, I`m not sure if its in the right position where the key would come out.
Anyway, I don`t use the truck that often, so after a few days of sitting, the battery would be almost dead.
I`m thinking it might be the linkage that`s not adjusted for the ignition to shut off properly.
Could that be the problem? I also had another battery in there, and did the same thing. Also, had the alternator checked and its OK, ([email protected] 2000rpms).
Any ideas how to check this? I was told that I can check for other possible grounds by removing the Neg. cable, put a amp meter between cable and terminal. If there`s a reading, wait for the reading to drop. If still there, start pulling fuses until you find it. Sorry for the long post!
 
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Old 05-05-05, 01:48 PM
carguyinva's Avatar
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a draw test would be good...

...that's where you put an ammeter in series with the battery cable. a digital ammeter works best but don't have any doors open or turn on anything when the ammeter is connected. it's only capable of handling a small amount of current and you could blow the internal fuse. some draw is normal because of computer controlled devices with memory and so forth. less than 50 millamps is a good rule of thumb for normal draw. (50/1000's of an amp) if something is staying on, ie a bulb, you might see 250 milliamps or more. that's enough to drain the battery in a couple days. if you have a draw, then pulling fuses one at a time is next...pull one and check to see if the draw is gone...and so forth. when the draw goes away, you have isolated the circuit that the draw is on.

ps... the generator is still a possibly...charging voltage is not the whole story in evaluating a generator.

good luck...let us know what you find out...we can go from there if necessary.
 
  #3  
Old 05-06-05, 04:32 AM
danno 1
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Originally Posted by carguyinva
...that's where you put an ammeter in series with the battery cable. a digital ammeter works best but don't have any doors open or turn on anything when the ammeter is connected. it's only capable of handling a small amount of current and you could blow the internal fuse. some draw is normal because of computer controlled devices with memory and so forth. less than 50 millamps is a good rule of thumb for normal draw. (50/1000's of an amp) if something is staying on, ie a bulb, you might see 250 milliamps or more. that's enough to drain the battery in a couple days. if you have a draw, then pulling fuses one at a time is next...pull one and check to see if the draw is gone...and so forth. when the draw goes away, you have isolated the circuit that the draw is on.

ps... the generator is still a possibly...charging voltage is not the whole story in evaluating a generator.

good luck...let us know what you find out...we can go from there if necessary.
Thanks CARGUYINVA, Is there any chance that pulling fuses won`t find the problem?
Also, what do you think about the ignition switch problem I described above?
 
  #4  
Old 05-06-05, 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by danno 1
Thanks CARGUYINVA, Is there any chance that pulling fuses won`t find the problem?
Also, what do you think about the ignition switch problem I described above?
The procedure will tell if your switch circuit is the draw
 
  #5  
Old 05-06-05, 08:29 AM
danno 1
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Originally Posted by slickshift
The procedure will tell if your switch circuit is the draw
Thanks SLICKSHIFT, I`ll give it a try!
 
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