Welcome to the DoItYourself Forums!

To post questions, help other DIYers and reduce advertising (like the one on your left), join our DIY community. It's free!

1994 bravada code 32


mudcat24's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 103
OH

05-08-05, 07:16 AM   #1  
1994 bravada code 32

1994 bravada w engine 4.3 . idiles very ruff almost to a stall unless you give it gas.took it over to autozone and they tell me its a code 32, i would like to know if its the right read they are telling me . $160.00 for the part.

 
Sponsored Links
slickshift's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,320

05-08-05, 07:21 AM   #2  
Did they tell you to replace the EGR valve?

 
mudcat24's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 103
OH

05-08-05, 08:00 AM   #3  
yes they did, but told me to remove it to get the right part number

 
Cabot's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 174

05-08-05, 08:36 AM   #4  
Remove your EGR and clean it out real good, clean out both small and large ports on the motor also, known problem with our 4.3 motors, save the money for a FPR replacement.

 
mudcat24's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 103
OH

05-08-05, 08:53 AM   #5  
thanks , can i do it myself,do you use carb cleaner? just spray the egr and a small toothbrush will work?. how big of a job is this thanks

 
mudcat24's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 103
OH

05-08-05, 08:54 AM   #6  
what does fpr stand for.?

 
slickshift's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,320

05-08-05, 08:58 AM   #7  
Posted By: mudcat24 thanks , can i do it myself,do you use carb cleaner? just spray the egr and a small toothbrush will work?. how big of a job is this thanks
yup, yup, yup, and not a big deal at all
Even Olds says replacement of the part may not cure the problem that's setting the code, so it's a good idea (and cheaper) to try and clean it first

 
bigguy05641's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 472

05-08-05, 01:26 PM   #8  
The problem is that chunks of carbon are breaking away from the inside of plenum, and getting caught in the egr valve. YOu can remove the egr valve(two bolts, not real easy to get to) and remove the carbon chunk. New egr valves seem to be able to pass them more readily, but replacing the egr valve in not necessary. It's going to happen again, probly a couple times before all the carbon is gone. OR you can remove the plenum and chop the carbon out you self to prevent future occurances.

 
mudcat24's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 103
OH

05-08-05, 09:24 PM   #9  
thanks for all the info. i removed it and cleaned the egr , it was stuck opened would not spring back sprayed carb cleaner in it and let it soak about 30 minutes kept working it for quite awhile untill it freed up, reinstaled seems to have been the problem so far so good,taking the plentum off is it a big job how do you do this . im willing to do what it takes $ 160.00 is a lot for this part

 
bigguy05641's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 472

05-09-05, 03:30 AM   #10  
The intake manifold is divided into two parts, upper and lower.
The plenum is the upper part. Moderate amount of skill and tools.
It seems the carbon likes to build up where the two bolt together, in the exhaust passage. Then the carbon breaks free, and ends up in the egr valve.

 
Cabot's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 174

05-12-05, 12:55 PM   #11  
"FPR" Fuel Pressure Regulator" this is the part that goes bad when the dealer says to replace the whole CPI assembly. Replacing just the FPR costs 50 bux vice 300 + labor for the CPI. Wait until either the FPR or the "nut kit" go bad before removing the plenum. Then replace both the FPR and nut kit and clean the EGR ports all in one full swoop. If you have not had to replace either of the prior 2 mentioned items, just wait, you will.

 
the_tow_guy's Avatar
Group Moderator

Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 11,475
FL

05-12-05, 02:08 PM   #12  
BTW, here is a good primer on the egr system:

http://www.sethirdgen.org/egr.htm


Measure it with a micrometer; cut it with an ax.

 
davo's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,417

05-13-05, 04:34 PM   #13  
Go to the local auto parts and get a clean screen Egr gasket.It will keep the carbon out of the valve for a long time.Should be about $20.

 
mudcat24's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 103
OH

05-13-05, 05:53 PM   #14  
thanks, i have already replaced the spider and will get a screen and remove the egr again and put it on. now that ive taken it off it real easy to do .does autozone or advance auto sell these?replaced spider last summer dont remember if they replaced the nut kit or not.

 
Cabot's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 174

05-13-05, 07:49 PM   #15  
You can make your own screen, go to H/D and get an oversized faucet screen. As far as the spider, replacement of whole assembly is a huge waste of money, next time replace the FPR yourself and save big, all ways replace nut kit while you are in there as they get brittle and leak.

 
bigguy05641's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 472

05-14-05, 06:08 AM   #16  
Just another opinion here.
We've done tons of injector assemblies with out the nut care, with no problems, agreed, u can't go wrong putting the nut kit in. The torx head screw in the rear of the intake can be a real PITA though.
The regulator is not available seperately from this injector, they might be as aftermarket though, unless we're going back to the shelves and matching one up .
I"ve never had the desire to put a screen in the egr. I heard they burn out, and besides, you don't want to what is essentiallly creating a restriction in the egr passage.
Just my humble opinion.

 
Cabot's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 174

05-14-05, 01:01 PM   #17  
BigGuy

You are correct about the screen burning through, however, you can get the regulator @ NAPA and Autozone both 49.95 also on eBay you can get them for 34 dollars, I have used all 3 with no problems (we all drive either S-10s, Sonoma or Blazers) much better than 300 for whole assembly. Also at GMpartsdirect a nut kit is 29 dollars FWIW.

 
bejay's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,538

05-14-05, 02:54 PM   #18  
personally have had good luck using the gasket with the screen installed in it to prevent carbon from resticking the valve open havent really seen one burn through as of yet but im sure its possible if the screen isnt designed to take high temperatures.
as a general rule if the passenger side plugs are gas fouled the regulator is leaking if the drivers side plugs are fouled the nut kit is leaking however I still replace both as they are both very brittle plastic and can break very easily.

 
mudcat24's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 103
OH

05-14-05, 08:09 PM   #19  
here we go again,started acting up again removed egr there was no problem with the egr valve. valve was as free as can be. no carbon chunks or restrictions. put back on ran fine for about 3 miles then the ruff idle began again.i disconnected the battery while i was doing this this time.does it need to reset itself or this has nothing to do with it. can a egr valve just go bad even though it seems to work fine on the work bench?.any other thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. thanks,or just buy the new egr i hate to put the $ 160.00 out only to fined out that wasnt the problem.

 
Cabot's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 174

05-14-05, 08:41 PM   #20  
Make sure you still have a code, SES light on? Check it yourself, short pins 1 and 2, (top row of OBDI far right 2 pins, turn key on, not start, just on, read blinks) Yes the EGR can go bad, it is electronic. Have you had a lowering of gas milage as of late? Also, how is your EGR gasket looking?

 
mudcat24's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 103
OH

05-14-05, 09:06 PM   #21  
after dissconnecting battery there shouldnt be no codes, correct?. as far as gas mileage i do believe it has gotten worse. this my sons car and he has mention about the gas mileage.also i have not replaced the gasket it looks a little worn , you can tell it has indents where the valve has been tighten on it.also after it take it off again tommorrow should i put a stiff wire down both ports to feel for obstructions?. after i have it removed would starting the engine hurt anything,just wondering how to tell if this the culprit.pcv valve could this cause the ruff ideling?

 
bejay's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,538

05-14-05, 10:47 PM   #22  
well you could start it with it off but not sure it would tell you anything as it will be idling about 2500 rpm due to a large vacum leak.
if the valve is moving free and always returns to the closed position then there is probably nothing wrong with the valve it could still be getting stuck open every once in a while with a piece of carbon and possibly unstuck itself prior to you removing it the ecm will usually always turn on the check engine light when the egr position is reading out of range.
pcv would not cause rough idle.

 
bigguy05641's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 472

05-15-05, 08:51 AM   #23  
It's possible the carbon is getting caught, and then passing. But I think I read where u posted that the valve was not closing on it's own even after dislodging the carbon chunk.
If you do replace the valve, get one at the dealer. Don't go aftermarket. But it would set the code 32 again if it was failing, and yes, disconnecting the battery on the old systems will clear the code. Jumpering pins A and B at the data link connector will flash u the codes, key on, engine off. Each code gets flashed three times, always starting with and ending with a code 12.
I think you said you already replaced the injector assembly, so if there was a gross fuel leak inside the plenum , you'd be getting a code 45, and plenty of black smoke out the tailpipe. Also an extended cranking condition, especially with the engine warm would probably accompany this.

 
Search this Thread