S10 Cranking problems-please help.

Reply

  #1  
Old 05-10-05, 07:56 AM
Fubz
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
S10 Cranking problems-please help.

1989 Chevrolet S10 2.8



Problem:

While running a power wire to a hot point on the firewall I forgot to disconnect the battery and caused the metal wrench to ground out and arc against the air filter for about 3-5 seconds. After that the truck will turn over but will not stay cranked. Here is a picture of what the "thing" looked like that I attached a wrench to:



Here is what we have concluded/theorized/tested/havenotcluewhatwearedoing/:

1. All fuses have been checked and are not blown. All fuse holders have been tested for power and they are ok. This was tester using a light tester. Here is a picture of the fuse box under the steering wheel.





2. If we remove the air filter and put gas strait into the intake it will sputter like it wants to keep going then just dies as soon as all the fuel that was poured into them has evaporated.

3. When ignition is turned on the fuel pump does not click on.

4. To test to see if the fuel pump will power on at all we ran a temp wire from the battery strait to the fuel pump. I think this bypasses some relay that I have yet to locate. When this test is done the fuel pump does power up. The positive cable running back to the fuel pump is Red and the other cable was brown the ground.

5. To test to see if we were getting gas flow, we removed one of the fuel lines from the fuel injectors and briefly powered up the fuel pump as mentioned above. Gas was pumped out.

We are kind of stuck at this point...



1. How do we check/test the fuel injectors.

2. During my hours of reading to fix the problem I see people mention EGR Valve, could this be the cause of the problem or is it totally irrelevant? Where is this Valve located, what purpose does it serve?

3. Is there anyways we can check the computer?



Here are some pictures of my engine and anything I think could be relevant

Click Here to see them: (images are large as I really don't have time to resize/thumbnail etc.



Thanks in advance for any help or advice you can lend. This is the only automobile I have and I really cannot afford to take it to a shop until I have exhausted all other options.

I can be reached the following ways

AIM: FubarAgain

Email: [email protected]

Phone: I'll call you if you really have some ideas, send me an email or msg me and I'll give you my #.

Thanks Again.
 

Last edited by toyotaman11769; 05-10-05 at 04:59 PM. Reason: email address not allowed
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 05-10-05, 11:53 AM
Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,538
suggest looking for burnt fusible links possibly at starter or at back of alternater if you do not have power at junction block after shorting out.
 
  #3  
Old 05-10-05, 04:20 PM
Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: nc
Posts: 616
Does the check engine light come on when the key is turned to on?
Where did the power wire come from, the battery or somewhere else?
I assume you got the fuel pump running with the temp wires and tried cranking the engine but it would not start?
 
  #4  
Old 05-10-05, 09:17 PM
Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: nc
Posts: 616
Another thought...check the battery negative to chasis wire for any signs of burning or melted insulation.
 
  #5  
Old 05-12-05, 05:02 AM
Jes Pidlin
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
From the results of item nos 2 - 5, it sounds like:

a) "dies as soon as all the fuel that was poured into them has evaporated" - No gas is getting to the carb.

b) "When ignition is turned on the fuel pump does not click on" - Pump is not getting current or is damaged.

c) "ran a temp wire from the battery strait to the fuel pump... when this test is done the fuel pump does power up" - Rules out damaged pump. Check for current at pump end of supply line.

d) "removed one of the fuel lines from the fuel injectors and briefly powered up the fuel pump ... gas was pumped out" - Pump works, no blockage in the fuel line, and again no power to the pump.

Sounds like something in the electrical line to the pump is bad. Reconnect the temp line and see if it will crank/run. If so, trace the line and look for problems.
 
  #6  
Old 05-12-05, 07:31 AM
carguyinva's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Shenandoah Valley
Posts: 1,147
you definately burned a fuse link...

...that junction that you were working at is powered by a fuse link. check at the junction for battery voltage. if you have none...run a TEMP wire from the battery positive...the engine should now start and run.

to fix correctly...follow that red wire to where it connects to a battery voltage source (probably at the starter) and pull on it. it'll feel soft and pull apart...that is the fuse link and it has done it's job...you created an electrical overload and the fuse link burned up to prevent a fire. go to your favorite parts place a buy a replacement fuse link with the right size eyelet and solder it onto the end where it burned up...remember to insulate it...heat shrink is best. don't use a fuse holder...use only fuse link rated for the same protection...probably 30 amps.
 
  #7  
Old 05-19-05, 07:57 PM
Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 93
it sounds like the fuse but if not the fuel pump relay is on the driverside fender
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes