91 Camry low power on acceleration
#1
91 Camry low power on acceleration
I have recently aquired a 1991 toyota camry with 161K miles. When accelerating, it will chug for a little while, then kick in and go just fine. This is an internittent problem, and only happens sometimes, although it seems to be getting worse as the days go by. I have changed the air filter and just put new spark plugs in, as well as dumped a bottle of that fuel injector cleaner into the gas tank, none of which did any good. I'm thinking of the fuel filter next, and I'm hoping it's not the fuel injectors. I read somewhere about an EGR problem on this model which might be the case... I keep going back to the fuel injectors, because that's sort of what it feels like, but then it seems that people with fuel injector problems usually report trouble starting or idling too.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
#3
It seems to happen more after it sits for a while. But it still happens after it's been warmed up, just not as much.
Also, If it's sputtering like that, and I really stomp on the gas, most of the time it will kick out of it and accelerate just fine.
Also, If it's sputtering like that, and I really stomp on the gas, most of the time it will kick out of it and accelerate just fine.
#4
I would check for any codes, jump out Te&E1 in the check connector and read the blinks of the check eng light.
It must have OEM ignition wires and at this mileage the coils go bad and cause this condition.
It must have OEM ignition wires and at this mileage the coils go bad and cause this condition.
#5
I have a book that tells the check engine light codes, so I'll check it out and see if it says anything. For some reason I was under the impression that if there were any codes, the check engine light would be on the whole time the car was running.
So basically, the wires could have made the ignition coil go bad? Does that mean I would need to replace just the ignition coil, or the wires too? (I'm guessing it wouldn't do much good to replace the coil without replacing the wires)
So basically, the wires could have made the ignition coil go bad? Does that mean I would need to replace just the ignition coil, or the wires too? (I'm guessing it wouldn't do much good to replace the coil without replacing the wires)
#8
Well, I checked the engine codes, and it came out normal. Is there any way I can check the ignition assembly to see if it's bad before I spend $160 on a new one?
I'm pretty sure it needs replacing anyway, so I'll probably end up doing it regardless.
I'm pretty sure it needs replacing anyway, so I'll probably end up doing it regardless.
#11
They are going to have the clyinder # and will have the year of manufacture in 4 digit form, May have the name Sumitomo or yazaki and cap should say IIa, if it says Italy your in trouble.
#13
If you where to replace those "1993" OEM that are 12 years old with a new set of aftermarket wires the best wires just where put in the trash.
I have seen aftermarket wires installed as PM only to cause problems 6 months down the road, time and time again. There is no problem using aftermarket as long as you ready for problems in the very near future.
I have seen aftermarket wires installed as PM only to cause problems 6 months down the road, time and time again. There is no problem using aftermarket as long as you ready for problems in the very near future.