90 Isuzu Impulse with no spark!

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  #1  
Old 06-07-05, 10:21 PM
Kev5n24
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90 Isuzu Impulse with no spark!

I have a 1990 Isuzu Impulse and today I went to work and my car ran fine, went to lunch and my car ran fine, went to go home but my car wouldn't start! It cranks over great (batteries fine) but not even as much as a sputter or a back fire. So I have the toe truck driver crank the key as I check for spark between the ignition coil and the coil wire and wouldn't you know it Im getting nothing. So I ASSume its the ignition coil and buy a new one, but that didn't solve the problem, still no spark. The guy at AutoZone told me to pull my ignition control module and bring it in to be tested (which I did) but it passed so that's not the problem either. I checked ALL the fuses and there fine, even the ones under the hood. I was sure it must be the ignition coil cuz if my thinking is correct doesn't it go battery, coil, distributor? The ignition coil I have is one of those after market ones. It's tube shaped with a + positive and - negative bolt on top and between those two bolts is the plug spot where the coil wire goes in ...anywayz I even tried to hot wire the damn coil right to the battery terminals! With some extra wire I had I connected the positive bolt on the coil to positive on the battery and negative to negative but STILL the car wont start...

What on earth could be keeping me from getting spark??? The plugs are new not to mention all 4 wouldn't go at once AND there farther down the spark line then where I've been checking for spark (at the coil)... I don't know what to do and I need my car for work!!

Someone help!
 
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Old 06-08-05, 06:59 AM
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Pull the distributor cap, turn the engine, see if the rotor is turning.
 
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Old 06-08-05, 05:01 PM
Kev5n24
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did that, it IS turning but (and no offence intended here) your missing a greater point. I'm absolutely not getting spark out of the ignition coil. but the ignition coil tested fine at autozone..
 
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Old 06-08-05, 05:27 PM
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Your right, I am missing the point. Im sorry. I had believed that if the rotor is not turning, you will never get a spark, but I suppose you wanted me to know that your car is somehow 'different' from all other conventional distributor type ignition systems. I'm not familiar with a 'different' type.
 
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Old 06-08-05, 06:25 PM
Kev5n24
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if the rotors not turning you wont get a spark at the spark PLUGS but I should get one prior to it at the ignition coil and im not...
 
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Old 06-08-05, 07:29 PM
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Let me understand this better. You are getting around a 12 volt reading on the primary winding (the + post) . Right?

And you are somehow testing for the high voltage (10,000 volts) spark at the secondary winding? How are you doing this? That would be a bit tricky to accomplish unless you were cranking the engine at the same time.

Since you installed a new coil, and assuming you can see 12 volts at the coil, there is little reason to suspect the coil is bad. Of course if you don't see 12 volts at the coil, then you must work backwards toward the ballast resister (if present) and the ignition switch.

Dispite the fact that you tested the ignition module, that is where you should be looking (if you see 12 volts at the coil). Something in the distributor or the ignition module is the logical place to look.

p.s. You said that you should get high voltage spark at the coil if the rotor is not turning. That is incorrect. High voltage is only generated from the collapse of the coil field, which is a function of the spinning distributor rotor.
 

Last edited by Lugnut; 06-08-05 at 07:41 PM. Reason: I added the postscript.
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Old 06-08-05, 10:08 PM
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A new cap and rotor or coil wire may be all you need. Check for spark at the end of a spark plug wire where it plugs onto the spark plug.
Follow Lugnut's advice!

Originally Posted by Lugnut
And you are somehow testing for the high voltage (10,000 volts) spark at the secondary winding? How are you doing this?
 
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Old 06-10-05, 07:38 PM
Kev5n24
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jeff67,
.. i told you the plugs and wires are new not to mention im not getting spark at the coil.. which is BEFORE the dist and rotor.. thus why replace something at the end of the line when the problem is for sure before it..
 

Last edited by toyotaman11769; 06-11-05 at 12:03 AM. Reason: Violates Forum Policies
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Old 06-10-05, 08:09 PM
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What about another coil ? Module, check, cap, check, wire, check, plugs, check. Thats about all that remains, assuming it is wired correctly . .. Wouldn't be the first time something didn't work off the shelf.
 
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Old 06-10-05, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Kev5n24
jeff67,
.. i told you the plugs and wires are new not to mention im not getting spark at the coil.. which is BEFORE the dist and rotor.. thus why replace something at the end of the line when the problem is for sure before it..
You hot wire a coil thinking it's going to magically spark, and he's the i xxxx????
Here's what you do - go to your local library; find their MOD cd's or manuals; look up the "no-spark" flow chart and HEI wiring diagram for your car; go purchase yourself a DVOM. Said flow chart, wiring diagram and DVOM will then lead you to one of 3 things: bad coil, bad pick-up coil, or bad HEI module. There's also the minimal chance the ECM may have gone south. Uh, you can read a wiring diagram, right?
 

Last edited by toyotaman11769; 06-11-05 at 12:05 AM. Reason: Violates Forum Policies
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Old 06-10-05, 09:59 PM
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According to your posts, you have yet to even prove that a no spark condition exists and you haven't said how you are testing for spark at the coil.
Maybe I'm blind but I didn't see new wires mentioned anywhere.

I recommend you get this car towed to a competent mechanic.
 
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Old 06-11-05, 12:12 AM
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Kev5n24,

This forum will not allow name calling, lugnut and jeff are offering sound advice, if the rotor does not turn there will be no spark, respect the people who are trying to help you.

Just to make things clear you would pull the coil wire out of the cap and hold it away from ground to check for spark.
 
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Old 06-11-05, 03:32 AM
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With some extra wire I had I connected the positive bolt on the coil to positive on the battery and negative to negative but STILL the car wont start...



What did you do with the negative wire? you hooked it too the battery ground? If you jumped the hot wire to the coil you should have left the negative alone, do not hook it too the battery. If no fire then the coil and/or distributer components are bad.
 
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Old 06-11-05, 08:32 AM
Kev5n24
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Originally Posted by pmgheritage
There's also the minimal chance the ECM may have gone south.
ECM dosent even kick in till the cars at 200 RPM's
 
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Old 06-11-05, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Kev5n24
ECM dosent even kick in till the cars at 200 RPM's
Straight from the "expert technicians" at AZ? Or perhaps one of those quality Haynes manuals? ECM serves as ground for the distributor as well as distributor reference (from the pick-up coil) for the HEI module. Lack of either or both will kill your spark. Either one of the aforementioned components is bad, or you have an open/shorted circuit somewhere. If you're going to refute all advice you're given, why are you here?

"I recommend you get this car towed to a competent mechanic."

Amen.....
 
  #16  
Old 06-11-05, 09:44 AM
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Kev

Your automotive knowledge is misdirected.

The signal rotor under the dist rotor must turn to excite the pick-up that inturn activates the ignition module to make the coil produce a spark.

If it has electronic timing control the ECM is in between the pick-up and ignition module to control timing advance.

I never heard of that 200 rpm thing
 
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