Blazer S-10 Transmission question

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  #1  
Old 06-09-05, 09:52 PM
smokii
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Blazer S-10 Transmission question

I have a '95 4 dr 4x4 Blazer that started acting funny after a fluid/filter change. It has always changed weak to me (nothing surprising about this truck); and I never felt confident about how the filter was fitting up in the transmission anyway. That is why I changed it...to make sure it was fitting right; HOWEVER, the way the the GM fool designed this thing, you can't just insert the filter and place the pan on it. You must try and get the filter to 'levitate' into the opening (there's no screws to hold it in like all other vehicles I've had) and hope it stays there while you wiggle, and force the pan over it and between the crossover pipes. Yes, I did remove the crossmember. Just half an inch clearance is all that is needed to make this a reasonably pleasant job...but NO...they just HAD to make sure the exhaust would deliberately be in the way. ANYWAY, after the oill change, it would not go into gear. If you can imagine holding the clutch on a manual transmission and then randomly releasing it to move the vehicle. It would work better in forward as it warmed up, but still has that 'lag.' Reverse is terrible. You have to give it some serious RPMs and it will start inching back, just to 'catch' and bark the tires as the transmission catches. I talked with a transmission friend of mine and he seems to think it is a sticking valve body. Does anyone out there have any idea or opinion on what could be the problem? Also, if it is the valve body, how difficult is that to get to and replace? I couldn't find any diagrams or installation instructions on the WWW in my brief checking. The truck has 90,000 miles on it...that's all I get keep it running long enough to do. I'll NEVER own another new gm product because of our experiences with this one vehicle. Even the dealership (Smithfield Chevrolet) REFUSED to do the warrenty work that had already been documented and written up on previous work sheets !!!!!!!! We were told to drive it almost to the end of the warrenty and bring it in and they would correct the problems....when we did as we were told....they refused to do as they promised and was written on previous work orders !!!!!!!! GO gm !!!!!!!!! Aside from my sarcasm toward gm, would appreciate any help on this thing...thanks
 
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  #2  
Old 06-09-05, 10:09 PM
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Yes, your friend could have a point - not a sticky valve body but sticking valve(s) inside the valve body. Don't know about the design of your trans but for some you can remove the valve body without taking the whole trans out of the vehicle. If this is the case you may be lucky. If the old fluid was dirty or had a lot of clutch material suspended in it draining the fluid could have caused it to dry and stick over the valves and cause this. I would suggest trying a friction modifier. I've used a product called "Lubegard Red" in the past successfully. You just add it to the trans fluid. I think it is compatible with all fluids apart from Ford type F.

Failing that you can try pulling the valve body. I would suggest buying the appropriate service/repair manual for your trans. I doubt you will find the procedures on the web. ATSG or ATRA would be 2 good sources to check.
 
  #3  
Old 06-10-05, 06:09 PM
smokii
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Thanks RAV12,

I appreciate the response...you are probably correct with the suspended material as I drained it and unfortunately let it sit 12-15 hours before I refilled the pan. I had other schedules to meet at the time. I just think that after a month, the new fluid should have 'set in' by now I would think and loosed up any sticking?!?! I haven't driven this rag over 1/4 mile since this happened.Question: do you know of a better way of having to change the fluid than I described? I honestly don't understand this idiotic way of assembly because unless there's a trade secret....gm techs have the same problem as I would. I know of no other way to make it easier short of removing the 'y' pipe and if you've ever had to fornicate around with rusty, exhaust...well, that's the only other way I know. You literally have to position the filter up in the hole...hold it with one hand....find the pan, balance it on your palm...tilt it up at an angle and deliberately force it over the base of the filter with your other hand still holding the filter. So you are effectively re-inserting the filter blindly as you hold the pan and pray that it levitates and stays in the hole so you can slam the pan back up where it belongs and again pray that the gasket stays in place. Now describing this, I will feel like a fool when someone tells me the 'correct' way to do this...but up to now, I see no other way...I'm hesitant to think this truck is the exception and the 'y' pipe was incorrectly bent at the factory. But then again, with all the headache this thing has been, wouldn't doubt it. Almost any problem you read about on these s10 forums...this __________ has had it. When I said it only has 90,000 miles in 10 years, it is the truth...it's because it there is ALWAYS somthing to attend to on this _______....can't drive while it's torn down!!! I have an old '86 Nissan truck...with 352,000 miles!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! NO PROBLEMS in 19 YEARS!!!! Japan will always get my money if all I have to choose from is gm and Jap vehicles because of this ONE piece of defication.
 
  #4  
Old 06-10-05, 07:21 PM
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Yeah - sorry to hear about the difficulties in doing the fluid/filter change. I guess it really depends on the model so I would think consulting the manual would help but most likely you were doing it correctly. My car does not have any obstructions in the way of the pan so getting the pan out is easy. Also the filter is held by some screws. Once you get this out you can immidiately get at the shift solenoids and valve body and also the accumulators without a problem. However, I think many trans designs do not even have oil drain plugs and some can be awkward to work with. And yes, possibly the designers do not think about the issues one may face when trying to get at these things for repair. At the factory it should be easy since they are assembled in the correct order.

Having said that removing the starter motor on my car is another matter. What a nightmare!!

Just give the lubegard a try - it certainly helped me when I rebuilt my trans - although it was sitting in a disassembled state for about 2 weeks as I could only work on it in my spare time. The shifts were much harsher since I did not disassemble the valve body during the rebuild - the lubegard definitely got it back to normal.
 
  #5  
Old 06-10-05, 07:30 PM
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If I am not mistaken, there should be a small seal of sorts that goes into the hole before the filter. That holds it in place while you install the pan. Usually the new filter comes with one. This, however, is not at the heart of your problem.

Sounds to me like tranny time, as I don't believe the valve body is serviceable with the unit in the vehicle, though I am not totally sure.
 
  #6  
Old 06-10-05, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by hspr
If I am not mistaken, there should be a small seal of sorts that goes into the hole before the filter. That holds it in place while you install the pan. Usually the new filter comes with one. This, however, is not at the heart of your problem.
Actually, it may be. Especially if the old seal was not removed, which I've seen more than once. Kind of like the double gasket on the oil filter deal. I'm even more inclined to think this may be the case if you had to force the pan over the filter. If the filter is interfering with the pan, either it's the wrong filter or it's not in all the way. You stated that you removed the crossmember - did you support the tail of the trans. after you removed the crossmember? Jacking it up helps a bit as well. I did more than a handful of these over the years, and beyond the crossmember, I don't recall them being any more of a pain than the rest.
 
  #7  
Old 06-10-05, 08:04 PM
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Thanks for the correction. If the filter isn't fitting in properly, the fluid may very well not be taken up.
 
  #8  
Old 06-10-05, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by hspr
Thanks for the correction. If the filter isn't fitting in properly, the fluid may very well not be taken up.
That's what set off the bells - I got the impression from the original post that the problems weren't there prior to the service. That and the description of interference.
 
  #9  
Old 06-10-05, 11:10 PM
smokii
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Thanks guys for the info. Just for the record, I am familiar with the metal seal that slides in the hole and 'should' hold the filter in. I've done this change several times, just hate to do it when it comes due. I have jacked the trans up each time I do it...sometimes so much so that I'm concerned I'm gonna' break a mount up front if I jack it one more time ! It does improve the clearance, but still the exhaust blocks the front of the pan in trying to get it on or off.
HSPR, you hit the nail on the head as to why this thing has been on my mind ever since the first time I had to do it. I was concerned that since nothing holds the filter in place, and all the problems I get trying to get it together that possibly it's not getting a good seal and not drawing up the fluid. I've called the dealerships and some shops and NO ONE yet has given me a definitive answer to my last statement. It just bothers me that it runs fine (well...as good as this piece __________ runs) and then without ANY warning after the filter change...I have this problem. anyway, thanks guys....sooner or later I'll figure it out...
 
  #10  
Old 06-11-05, 07:23 PM
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check the filter carefully. there are two different filters for gm transmissions that are almost identical, just a slight diff in tube diameter on the inlet tube(maybe 1/8th in) the metal ring seal should hold the filter up while installing the pan, if not you may have the wrong filter.
 
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