fuel line problem

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  #1  
Old 06-10-05, 10:19 PM
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fuel line problem

while changing my fuel filter my 1978, g10 van, i accidentally twisted the metal fuel line, while unscrewing the line into the carburator. can i just cut the twisted line out and replace it with a section of rubber hose and clamps? or will it leak because the ends of the line won't be flared and the fuel pump is adding pressure to the line?
 
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  #2  
Old 06-11-05, 03:41 AM
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You can put a hose with no flare but the best fix would be to get a flaring tool and make you a small flare then put a rubber fuel line in and double clamp it (four clamps). If you had enough room you may want to try and put an after market filter inline with the rubber fuel line.

Slide the hose on the metal line as far as you can, at least 3 inchs on each side.
 
  #3  
Old 06-11-05, 05:48 AM
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looking on the internet, i see a lot of flaring tools that create a 45 degree flare. wouldn't i need more of a nipple instead of a flare, so the rubber hose could slip over the pipe? like a round bulb-like flare? and my working space is confined.
 

Last edited by driger; 06-11-05 at 06:04 AM.
  #4  
Old 06-11-05, 06:53 AM
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Why don't you just buy the new metal line that goes from the pump to carb that would be the easiest. I have run a rubber fuel line with no flare with no leaks. If you drive it alot then I would replace with the metal line. You never know when that line will go out spraying fuel everywhere under the hood that would probably ignite and burn up your van. If your not comfortable flaring then buy the metal line.
 
  #5  
Old 06-11-05, 07:10 AM
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This works nicely for me. No special tools needed and you can do this in confined spaces.

Buy a compression union. It will have 2 nuts & 2 ferrels (the ferrels look like wedding rings). Take the union & 1 nut & ferrel and install the union on one end of the fuel line. All you need is 2 wrenches. Tighten it securly so the ferrel is good and tight. Then remove the union & repeat on the other end. (If you have never used one the parts person should be able to show you how to use compression fittings.)


You can't get the nuts off unless you cut them off but if you don't want them ratteling around you can use electrical tape & tape them in place. To keeo the tape from coming loose later you can secure both ends of the tape with ty-wraps. Or you can silicone the nuts to the line.

Now you can push the hose over the ferrels and secure with hose clamps. It will be a snug fit going over the ferrels but it will go. You can wet the inside of the hose & the ferrel to make the hose slide on easier.

As Chevydrivin said the hose can go bad someday. But if you get regular fuel line it should last for years. Just look at it on occasion and if you see any cracks replace it. Avoid tight bends and keep it away from the exhaust or anything sharp that can rub a hole in it.

 
  #6  
Old 06-11-05, 07:11 AM
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chevy-that metal line has a lot of special bends and snakes around the block and behind all the pumps. looks like it would have to be specially made and a pain to install. thats the down side. youv'e explained the upside pretty well.
 
  #7  
Old 06-11-05, 08:39 AM
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ok. how bout a compression connector and barbed hose fitting. the hose fitting would then be threaded to the compression connector.
 
  #8  
Old 06-11-05, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by driger
ok. how bout a compression connector and barbed hose fitting. the hose fitting would then be threaded to the compression connector.
You can do that if you want to it is just more expensive, and you have more places for a leak. You might be able to find a compression x hose barb fitting.
 
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