High Torque Fasteners

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  #1  
Old 06-15-05, 01:58 PM
rkc
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High Torque Fasteners

What does the average DIY'er do when it comes to removing and replacing someting like the front axle nut (in my case, on a 1997 Honda Accord). In the case of this nut, the required torque spec is something like 181 ft/lbs.

Is removal of this nut beyond the capability of a socket, breaker bar, and some hard work? (I'm guessing that with the 18" breaker bar I have, I'm going to need to apply more than 120 pounds of pressure.)

In putting high torque fasteners back on, how do the average DIY'er return fsteners to original torque settings. Is there some seat-of-the pants steps that one can follow or does everyone just use torque wrenches with 181 ft/lb capacities?
 
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  #2  
Old 06-15-05, 05:13 PM
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Breaker bar and socket is all you need. A cheeter bar may help to get it off, but don't use a cheeter bar to put it back on. Cheeter bars distort the torque wrench readings.
 
  #3  
Old 06-15-05, 05:19 PM
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A good 1/2 torque wrench will get you up to 200 ft/lbs.
 
  #4  
Old 06-15-05, 05:40 PM
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Advice

Never use a torque wrench to take OFF the nut.Use a cheater bar on a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar if just the cheater bar wont do it.
Use the Torque wrench dont go by calibrated elbow to install.
 
  #5  
Old 06-17-05, 03:37 PM
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normal breaker generally not enough

first, on the honda, the nut is bent over to lock in place against the axel. you have to bend it awY with a small punch. Next, if the nut has never been off, it will take a lot of torque to get it off; more than you can get with a 1/2 bar. On an older honda, after breaking my 1/2 breaker bar, I got a loaner socket and heavy duty breaker bar from Autozone (free rental program).

I couldn't budge it with the bar, even with my weight on it. (quite a bit more than 200lbs). I put a pipe over the breaker bar to extend my leverage several feet. That resulted in the wheel slowly rotating (as if i were squeeling the tire in slow motion) against the concrete floor. Remember, the full weight of the car was on the concrete. So, I blocked the tire to prevent it from rotating and that gave me enough leverage to break the 1/2 drive piece off the breaker bar.

Finally, I went to Sears and bought a 3/4" breaker bar and socket. repeated the wheel blocking and 6' pipe and the nut finally started moving.
 
  #6  
Old 06-18-05, 03:16 PM
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A 1/2" breaker bar with a 4' pipe has always worked for me. A little Liquid Wrench on the threads can also help. Just be careful to keep it on the threads and nothing else. Let it soak in.

To keep the wheel from turning, start the engine and have someone step on the brake pedal. That is if the calipers are still attached to the rotors.

Agree with MV. You may be tempted to use a torque wrench to remove fastners because the longer arm will give you more leverage, but you should only use it for tightening.
 
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