91 Mustang control arm touching rotor

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  #1  
Old 06-22-05, 04:43 PM
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91 Mustang control arm touching rotor

91 Mustang LX Hatchback 2.3L Auto Trans

I posted 6 photos at site below you can view. Click on any photo to enlarge.
http://community.webshots.com/album/376488521wmpKYO

The control arm is rubbing the inside of my rotor on drivers side. Also pads are are VERY rough especially outside pad. Right side has good clearance and bearings and race look good. I pulled rotors on both sides and swapped them to see if the problem followed the rotor but it did not so assuming rotors, bearings, etc okay and problem elsewhere. Maybe ball joint??? Whats best way to check?

Other question I have is about changing struts. Struts are outside of coil springs. Advance Auto on their site states a spring compressor NOT needed to change struts but the over counter Chilton book I have states differently.
Thanks,
Dennis
 
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  #2  
Old 06-22-05, 05:11 PM
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All you need to do for the struts is support the lower control arm with a jack stand, compress the spring slightly.

As for the rotor contact, have you hit anything? Chuckhole, curb, etc.?
My first guess would be a bent spindle/knuckle - hard to say from the pics. Pick some measuring points on each side and compare.
 
  #3  
Old 06-22-05, 05:36 PM
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Ooooh that doesn't look good
Is it me or is that rotor more worn too?
I woulda said race/bearings off-hand
maybe some measurments would be a good idea
See if the spindle/control arm measurements are off from one side to the other

You do not need a special tool to change struts on this car
Just do like pmgheritage says, and be careful
 
  #4  
Old 06-22-05, 06:31 PM
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Some measurements

I posted two new photos to show the place of measurement and also one showing what appears to be an adjusting nut.
http://community.webshots.com/album/376488521wmpKYO

I measured from below the spindle to the control arm on both sides and left side was 1 5/8 inches and right side was 1 7/32 inches. This means the control arm on the left is hanging more than 1/3 inch below the spindle than the right. What would happen if it removed the cotter key from the castle nut in the photo and tightened until the left control arm was the same length below the spindle as it is on the right???
 
  #5  
Old 06-22-05, 06:56 PM
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I don't recall that being an adjusting nut per say, but if one is looser than the other, you should be able to tighten the loose one
There's no load on the suspension right now, so one hanging lower doesn't really tell us what we want to know
It's not great news, but it also could be just the way it's hanging
I mean, if one was missing a spring perch, that still wouldn't account for the rotor rub
It may be that way from the factory to compensate for engine bay weight
 
  #6  
Old 06-22-05, 06:58 PM
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??? the spindle plates look to be the same distance out from the control arm???
Is that true, or just the pics?
 
  #7  
Old 06-23-05, 03:34 AM
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looks like your left lower ball joint is bad, that is not an adjusting nut it is part of your lower ball joint though.
place your jack under the control arm and raise it now put on your tire on with a couple of lug nuts and wiggle the wheel with your hands at the 12 oclock and 6 oclock position if any felt you should be able to see where its coming from ball joint or wheel bearing.
some ball joints have wear indicators at the bottom of the joint its hard to tell from the pics if yours do or not it is located at the bottom of the joint where the grease fitting would normally be if it was a greasable joint the wear indicator will recess farther into the joint housing when there is excessive joint wear you may be able to compare your right and left side to determine if one is recessed further in.
 

Last edited by bejay; 06-23-05 at 03:45 AM.
  #8  
Old 06-23-05, 06:31 AM
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Definitely not an adjustment - the b-joint stud is tapered to seat in the st/knuckle taper. Acts like a press fit when assembled. Takes either a few solid whacks with a BFH or a pickle fork to seperate. Is that stud loose in the knuckle?
 
  #9  
Old 06-23-05, 06:36 AM
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As soon as I can get away from work today I'm going to check the joint like ya'll talkin' about and see. Is it as simple to replace as it looks? I took the left rotor with its bearings and put it on the right side and the trouble did not follow the left rotor and also put the right side rotor and bearings on the left and the left side still had the problem so I'm assuming the bearings and race are fine but will test as bejay indicated this evening.
Thanks guys
 
  #10  
Old 06-23-05, 06:43 AM
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Not difficult...in as much as you have you replace the whole control arm
It's really not a big deal
You'll have to remove the coil
But really no special tool is needed for that, just be careful
Springs do store a lot of energy, and can be dangerous if not handled properly
 
  #11  
Old 06-23-05, 07:00 AM
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Those are actually the good old press-in ball joints. Still not a big deal - AZ rents the press.
 
  #12  
Old 06-23-05, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by pmgheritage
AZ rents the press.
I didn't think of that
Well it's definately do-able then, as you can get just the joints alone easily enough
 
  #13  
Old 06-23-05, 04:16 PM
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T R O U B L E ! ! !

Things were going fine... I removed the cotter key and nut and seperated the ball joint from the steering knuckle and lifted the knuckle out of the way. The problem came when I tried to drive the ball joint out of the lower control arm... the danged thing is made as an integral part of the control arm and cannot be removed. I guess you're supposed to replace the whole control arm to replace the ball joint.

Any ideas???
 
  #14  
Old 06-23-05, 05:00 PM
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That's definitely a removable b-joint. If you've rented a press, give that a try.
 
  #15  
Old 06-23-05, 07:13 PM
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I do appreciate the help but I still can't figure how to get this out. Am I right in assuming it should come out of the control arm in the downward direction.

I put another very close up photo of the ball joint with 4 reference points. Which point would the ball joint seperate from the control arm?
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...77350880ygeDLM

I did rent a press for the joint but can not see any way to use it to get any further than I am.

Sorry to be so ignorant but again I do appreciate ya'll trying to help.
 
  #16  
Old 06-23-05, 07:21 PM
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You've got the direction right - 'B' is the parting line. Remember, that thing has been in there for 16 years - it's obviously OE from the pics. I normally knock them out with the wedge end of a 4lb sledge after getting the boot off and out of the way. You might try a good overnight soaking with some penetrating oil. To use the press to get it out, you'll have to flip it - use the screw side on the top (stud) side of the joint. If you have to, get the stud out of the way - break it, cut it, whatever it takes.
 
  #17  
Old 06-23-05, 07:31 PM
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The joint will seperate from the control arm at point B, are you using the c-clamp type press?
 
  #18  
Old 06-23-05, 07:55 PM
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Okay I've found why I can't use the press... they gave me the wrong one. What they gave me is http://www.kd-tools.com/images/servicekits/62326.jpg and what I need is http://www.kd-tools.com/images/servicekits/62336.jpg so I guess they should have given me two kits. Now that I see the correct tool I understand how it works. I have an 8" C clamp and if I could find something to fit around the bottom of the ball joint like the rings they show maybe I could try that tonite. I'm gonna look and see.

I soaked the joint around the control arm with Liquid Wrench and will let that set a bot and soak it again.

Thanks again for all ya'll helping.
 
  #19  
Old 06-23-05, 08:15 PM
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Yeah, the second one is the one you need. Be very careful using a standard c-clamp. It can take an enormous amount of pressure to break those loose - regular c-clamp may not handle it well.
 
  #20  
Old 06-23-05, 08:18 PM
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I tried it with my C clamp but not go. The flange on it is flat and just slips off the ball joint stud when I try it. I'll just have to wait till tomorrow and get the kit.
Thanks a million
 
  #21  
Old 06-24-05, 06:15 AM
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Ok it out. I hammered it out this morning after letting liquid wrench set overnight. Now that it's out and I can compare old and new I have some differences is length and diameter I'm concerned about. Photo of the two is at http://community.webshots.com/photo/...77619421AzBDHU
Outisde the obvious diffenences in stud length the old one is not as wide as the new and as hard as it was to get out I don't know if anything wider is going back in. The old one measures 1.937 inches in diameter at the seat and the new on is 2.12 inches a difference of .183 inches. Is this normal from part to part on something that fits this tight?

Also when I go back together should I place the alimite and grease the ball joint so it can move before trying to seat the knuckle over it?

Should I place some grease around the ball joint when I press it back in and the same on the tapered stud when tightening the castle nut down?
 
  #22  
Old 06-24-05, 07:18 AM
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Wrong part - almost looks like they gave you an upper. Take the old one in with you to match it up. As far as installation goes - you can run some emery cloth around the inside of the control arm if it's real corroded. I wouldn't worry about grease. Grease it after it's completely reinstalled.
 
  #23  
Old 06-24-05, 02:16 PM
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Thanks. It was the wrong part... right box and numbers but another box matched up great. Will install in a bit if I can get rid of the people visiting at the house.
 
  #24  
Old 06-24-05, 04:09 PM
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It's Done...

I pressed the new ball joint in and slid the rotor into place and checked the clearance and it is great... just like the other side. Thanks for staying with me guys I'd have never done it without your patience and guidance.
Very grateful,
Dennis
 
  #25  
Old 06-24-05, 04:13 PM
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Good go (and glad someone called it right!) - just think how much easier it will be the next time.....
 
  #26  
Old 06-25-05, 09:33 PM
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I do believe I could do the next one a bit quicker than the first. After getting the correct ball joint and then the correct loaner kit with the press, things went a might easier going back together but couldn't have made it without the help. Not the first time either, ya'll guys have never failed to help me thru anything I've asked while trying to keep my old vehicles going. Thanks again.
 
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