'96 Mazda 626 Torque Converter nuts/bolts removal

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  #1  
Old 06-25-05, 11:35 AM
rickman
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'96 Mazda 626 Torque Converter nuts/bolts removal

Trying to help my Son-in-law avoid a ridiculous repair bill, I've got to replace his 4 cylinder engine, it's knocking fairly loudly. I've got all the sensors and vacuum lines disconnected, radiator is drained and out, alternator, starter, and steering pump are disconnected, everything is off and out of the way before I lift the engine out.

And the Chilton's manual I got from the library says I must go through the starter hole in the bellhousing, to get the torque converter nuts/bolts off.

What a stupid design!

I can sort of get a wrench onto the shoulders of each nut/bolt, but there is no way to get a socket onto the fastener, and the contact is far from enough to get any kind of leverage applied to the fastener.

Is there a "special" wrench I'll have to buy, or does someone have a way around this service joke?

The chilton's "guide" says to remove the engine and tranny as a unit, then take the nuts/bolts off. I still cannot see how this would be any better. I would still have to go through the starter hole to access those fasteners!
 
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  #2  
Old 06-25-05, 12:44 PM
Comptech
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A swivel socket would do the job, not a universal joint and a socket, but just a good old swivel socket. They should be 14mm, you will need to hold the crank pully still while you break them loose if you do not have impact tools.
 
  #3  
Old 06-25-05, 01:06 PM
rickman
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Thanks for that hint, Comptech,
I'll go buy one and see. I do have a few different types of impact tools....

On another list, there is a strong suggestion to take the engine and tranny out as a unit...I'm thinking this may be true, as there is such a space limitation! Giant jigsaw puzzle for sure, but I've been doing these for many years.
 
  #4  
Old 06-25-05, 01:34 PM
Comptech
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You will have to judge for yourself if there is enough room to get the engine forward[to the passenger side] a few inches so it will clear the bell housing. Your options if it wont come forward are strip all components from front of engine including crank pully or pull it as one unit. The only problem is I think to pull it as a unit you need to drop the front subframe[cradle,suspension,ect] to get it out. It will come out the bottom that way, but you will need a lift to do it.
 
  #5  
Old 06-25-05, 01:52 PM
rickman
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The car is on jack stands, and I have a "cherry picker", so no problems there.
 
  #6  
Old 06-25-05, 01:55 PM
Comptech
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Cherry picker won't do a whole lot for you other than hold it in place while you drop the subframe, engine and trans as a unit comes out the bottom. Car needs to be high enough to fit engine and trans out from underneath.
 
  #7  
Old 06-25-05, 06:32 PM
rickman
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Well,
Went and bought a swivel socket, and that won't work either. No room between the engine block, and bolt head, to get the swivel in the correct position. Guess I'll be pulling the engine/tranny as a unit tomorrow, if the rain lets me....
 
  #8  
Old 06-26-05, 07:44 AM
rickman
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Now, reading thoroughly what Chilton's has to say, I can pull the engine/tranny unit up out of the engine bay. So far the difficulty has been getting at the rear mount.....
 
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