Need help fast with brake problem


Old 06-28-05, 09:02 PM
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Need help fast with brake problem

'94 S10 Blazer (150k)

My brakes intermittently get very hard, with no stopping power. Sometimes I can push through this, but other times I have to let it up completely and try again. Usually the second or third time after I let it up, it depresses fully and normally.

The problem only occurs after I have been driving for awhile. The first 15 minutes each time I drive it are usually fine, but then the problem gets worse the longer I go. Eventually the ABS and brake warning lights will come on, but that takes a long time, and I've only had that happen once or twice.

Other symptoms include a low and soft grinding noise when it happens, and hot front rims after I've been driving.

I put my front end up and noticed that the driver's side front wheel doesn't spin as freely as the passenger's side front. I get at a full revolution when I spin the passenger's side wheel, and at most 1/8th of a revolution on the driver's side.

Front calipers and pads are new, and the rear drums are new.

I've been doing okay going back and forth from work, but I have to drive half-way across the country in a couple weeks. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Sponsored Links
Old 06-28-05, 09:16 PM
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Cape Cod
Posts: 4,320
Originally Posted by NewBlazerKid
and the rear drums are new.
New shoes too?
Old 06-28-05, 09:43 PM
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
I had a similiar problem however; with a different car. Did you install a new break hose? That was my problem, let us know how it goes
Old 06-30-05, 07:21 AM
chevyastro4x4's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Watertown
Posts: 592
did you bleed them after replaceing them
Old 06-30-05, 08:13 AM
thiggy's Avatar
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Alabama
Posts: 718
Could it be a defective vacuum booster or intermittent vacuum leak?
Old 06-30-05, 08:40 AM
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Cape Cod
Posts: 4,320
It could actually be a wheel bearing problem
Though I think a Master Cylinder problem or one of those new calipers isn't on right

It also could be two problems
If the rears didn't get new shoes and weren't adjusted properly that could give the hard pedal no stop

The hot and spinless wheel could be a sticking caliper
Old 06-30-05, 08:46 AM
Lugnut's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Kansas City, Missouri.
Posts: 1,172
I suggest you first determine the cause of the drivers wheel sticking, i.e. bad bearings or brake component. Then see if the pedal problem persist.

I have read that when Blazers systems are opened, (i.e. new calipers, etc) that the ABS module may need to be professionally bled to energize the solenoids during bleeding. This is particularly true if the master cylinder was allowed to become empty during the brake job.

Another thing to consider is that your vacuum booster is leaking and needs to be replaced.
Old 06-30-05, 08:48 AM
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Indiana
Posts: 312
I'm assuming this vehicle is 4 wheel ABS. Likely not a vacuum/booster issue for 2 reasons - intermittent, and warning lights. Both can be ruled out easily if you can get your hands on a vacuum pump/gauge. Tee into the supply going to the booster and verify supply when hard pedal occurs, and simply apply vacuum to the booster itself (check valve in place) and verify that it holds for a good 20-30 min to eliminate that as a possibility. Do the same to verify check valve operation. Sounds more like an ABS issue to me, or something affecting the ABS. Those untis carry hi and low pressure accumulators as well as a pump motor. If the vacuum supply and booster are ruled out, I'd suggest a shop. The fact that it's a 94 and a possible ABS problem rule out any of the 'free' code reading.
Old 06-30-05, 09:47 PM
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Still haven't figured out what's going on, but I hopefully will with the long weekend.

Some more notes... I took the car into a brake shop today and had them check the work on the the calipers and rears. They were okay with it. Also had them flush the lines.

One thing I noticed is that when they put it up the driver's side front tire rotated freely. This was because it had been sitting in the parking lot for awhile and cooled down (I assume), while the last time I put the car up I had just been driving around.

I have a question for anyone that is familiar with wheel bearing problems. When the bearings go, shouldn't there be a lot of noise giving it away? Everyone I've talked to that has had a problem with their bearings has had a lot of noise, but maybe I haven't talked to the right people.

I also have a question for those people that think it may be the ABS. Assuming the ABS is the problem, can I 'turn off' the ABS, and if I do would the problem be solved by doing this? Or would there still be some mechanical problem that would require replacing parts? I know that's not perfectly clear, but I've never worked with an ABS system before and don't really know how it works.
Old 07-01-05, 05:13 AM
Lugnut's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Kansas City, Missouri.
Posts: 1,172
Bad bearings are silent at first, but eventually they get louder to the point of being heard.

If the abs component is technically malfunctioning (which is rare, but can happen), it will have to be replaced. Its a decision that only a qualified brake shop can make.
Old 07-04-05, 04:48 AM
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Help with brake problem from old mechanic

You have a bad brake line on the driver side. As the brake fluid heats the line collapses causing you not to be able to stop the car without pumping nor spin the wheel freeley when you try after driving. This would also cause noise in the driver side which sounds like a wheel bearing going bad since the brake caliper is still engaged and the brake is dragging. This will also cause the ABS light to come on since it detects that the pressure is different on one wheel then the other three when you are driving. You aren't pressing the brakes but there is still increased pressure on the system. Both the ABS light on and the brake light on is a signal that there is problem in the fluid side of the system, and not the electrical control side. When the line collapses the fluid can't get back to the reservoir and the brake stays engaged. If it collapses enough both lights will come on. I've even seen tires blow because the caliper sticking generates a lot of heat. Feel the tire when you drive a short way. It will be hotter then the one on the other side. Replace both flex lines and you should be good to go. Happy and safe driving. P.S. this is why the brakes work after setting and are cool. Only after brake fluid heats up does all of these problems occur.

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes