94 Lesabre dies without warning.

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  #1  
Old 07-11-05, 12:34 PM
jmet
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94 Lesabre dies without warning.

My lesabre recently gave a check engine light on my way home from work but otherwise was running fine so I called my buddy and told him to bring in his OBD scanner to work the next day and I would check the code, well the next morning the car stalls on me 4 times on the way into work.

The engine just stops, all the lights on the dash light up and it cranks right back up only to happen again whenever it decides.

The scan came up empty... no codes at all... and it again stalls/dies 3 times on the way home.


I took it to a mechanic who immediately thought fuel pump (as well as everyone else I have spoken to) so he tests things out and it sees im loosing psi when the car warms up for awhile. They change out the pump/sock and inline fuel filter and I am $400.00 shorter.


I pick the car up on Saturday and immediately notice it is idling fast and running slightly rough, my wife goes to get food later that night and the engine light comes on and other then the above symptoms it is fine.

So Monday morning comes and I crank the car and get the high idling and running rough followed by an immediate check engine light so I shut it off and start her back up and take off as the engine light stays off. Not a block down the road it dies again in the same manner as before only this time I crank it back up with it purring like a kitten and gets me the whole 21 miles to work without issue.


Around 1:00 I go out to the car to start her up and get the high idling and rough running followed by a stall within 3 minutes or so, re crank her and she runs fine for about 10 minutes.


So far no error codes, a new fuel pump and filter. I physically inspected the cam shaft sensor (took it out) and saw no visible signs of distress on the magnet (this was recommended to me by Auto Zone) and the slightly higher then normal idling and slight roughness has only started since the new fuel pump was installed.


A thorough search of the Internet and many conversations with different mechanics has brought up the fact that this isn't an uncommon issue on Lesabres around this year but no one has yet seemed to know the fix.

Please help me out, as it is my main car and with a wife that works this is my life line to work 40+ miles a day.
 
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  #2  
Old 07-11-05, 04:42 PM
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possible ignition module or crank sensor?
 
  #3  
Old 07-11-05, 07:02 PM
jmet
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I was told a crankshaft position sensor would not make the car stall but run really rough, I have also seen the ignition module mentioned on other forums.
 
  #4  
Old 07-11-05, 08:00 PM
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A bad crank sensor will stall the car. If you do have access to a scan tool, hook it up the next time the car dies. Then monitor the RPM signal while cranking the engine. If there is no cranking RPM, put a crank sensor in it.
 
  #5  
Old 07-11-05, 09:35 PM
snozuloz
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The cam sensor will not make the car die, but the crank sensor will. Try tapping on it once the car gets warmed up. I am not sure, but if it has a MAF sensor, try tapping on it. Also try tapping on the ECM. As a guess I would lean toward the ECM being the culprit.
 
  #6  
Old 07-11-05, 09:37 PM
snozuloz
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Oh yeah, a sticking EGR valve will cause these symptoms. What code do you have now?
 
  #7  
Old 07-12-05, 05:26 AM
jmet
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So far I havent gotten a code, my friend has an OBD 1 & a 2 scanner however apparently this car is a 1 but with the type 2 connection.

Jumping the connections with a paper clip got no flashing code either.

The mechanic wasnt getting a "hard code" and said I would have to bring it in with the engine light on for him to get a reading.



I will say that since he changed the fuel pump and filter that it has only been dying once when the engine is cool and less then a block or two down the road, after restarting the car it runs perfect the rest of the way to or from work which is a good 20 miles.

I just hate the fact that while conditions have seemingly improved I still feel as if I was apart of the whole "change part until its fixed" routine with this mechanic, I also had to pay in cash since the card machine was down apparently.

I didnt fight about paying in cash as I prefer to think the best of people and also like to give the private shops my money as opposed to the Firestones etc. I know the guy drove the car since my wife saw him at her job but it begs the question of just how well did this guy test things...

/shrug..
 
  #8  
Old 07-12-05, 05:27 AM
jmet
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Originally Posted by snozuloz
The cam sensor will not make the car die, but the crank sensor will. Try tapping on it once the car gets warmed up. I am not sure, but if it has a MAF sensor, try tapping on it. Also try tapping on the ECM. As a guess I would lean toward the ECM being the culprit.
Is the crank near the cam sensor?

I would be a bit wary sticking my hand down there around a spinning belt.
 
  #9  
Old 07-12-05, 05:44 AM
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on the 3.8 the crank sensor is right behind the crankshaft pulley and may be covered by a plastic cover and no you shouldnt stick your hand down there with the engine running.
suggest you take it to a shop and leave it overnight if the problem occurs when the engine is cold so they will be able to see the problem occur, it obviously isnt setting a code in the computer and alot of times a sensor could be bad or be reading out of specification and not set a code but will cause drivability problems.
 
  #10  
Old 07-12-05, 05:08 PM
snozuloz
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"Jumping the connection should give a code 12 which means the ecm is working. When you turn the key on with the car off, is the check engine light on?
Also, I wouldn't put my hand down by the crank pulley either. However, go in the wheelwell and pull the shield away. Take a long screwdriver and tap away. Obviously be careful.
 
  #11  
Old 07-13-05, 07:13 AM
jmet
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Yes the engine light flashes when I turn crank the car, however there seems to be allot of confusion even amongst mechanics when it comes to this car and its OBD type.

My understanding is that it is an OBD 1 with a type 2 16 pin connection and CAN NOT be jumped by using a paper clip.. you must use a reader to scan the code.


This is strange and very repeatable, if the car has sat for awhile I can crank it it will idle high and rough then get an engine light.. it will die once shortly down the road. If When I get the engine light I shut it off and start back up everything runs fine and it doesnt stall.

If the car is warm it is fine, say I go into the store and come back out 20 minutes later it is fine. Yet if it sots for a few hours and cools down I must crank it and shut it off when the engine light comes on then crank her back up.

Yesterday I let it sit for awhile after getting home, cranked her up and got the normal issues and wiggled every wire and tapped gently on every sensor I could find including the ECM and nothing seemed to make a difference. Shut it off and she started back up just fine purring like a kitten.
 
  #12  
Old 07-13-05, 01:14 PM
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gm used the same aldl connector up to obd 2 vehicles but they left one of the terminals out so it cannot be jumpered to flash codes like you can older models I believe they started this in either 93 or 94.
you need to have the vehicle on a scanner when the check engine light is on and the problem is occuring to check for any codes and to look at the data from all the sensors.
 
  #13  
Old 07-13-05, 09:13 PM
snozuloz
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I agree with bejay. The light is coming on because something is failing and the only way to find out what that is is to have the scanner on while it is happening. One thing, when that light comes on it should store a could which should be in history even when it goes off. You should be able to hook up to that car with a tech I or tech II scanner. There are only 2 choices, one has to work.
 
  #14  
Old 07-14-05, 03:44 AM
jmet
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I wouldnt disagree, the car is OBD1 with a type 2 connection. Sadly I have yet to find someone who has the scanner with such a connection or converter.
 
  #15  
Old 07-18-05, 06:03 PM
jmet
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Still no luck in finding someone and for the $60.00 Gm wants to scan it I could buy one.. well.. if I could fins one guaranteed to work on my car in that range.
 
  #16  
Old 10-20-05, 02:36 PM
Bobby Roy
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I've had the same problem. It would either die for no reason or would not start. I tried everything and was going to get a new battery and found that the positive side was corroded between the battery and the bolt. I cleaned it and it has not died since.
 
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