CV Replacement


Old 08-17-05, 10:30 AM
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Exclamation CV Replacement

Hello all!

I'm new to this forum, and glad I found it! I'll jump right in with my question.
My daughter's 1989 Ford Taurus needs a passanger side outer CV joint replacement, and we have to figure it out how to do it ourselves due to financial and lack of having anyone else to help us!

I'd like to know if there are any special tools we will need to do this.

I truly appreciate any help anyone can give us!

I've done repair work on my old cars in the past which include fixing a broken power window on my 280Z (1983 Datson), and basic tune-ups. I've never tackled anything like this yet, but don't mind doing it with the right preparations!

Thanks So Much in Advance!
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Old 08-17-05, 02:49 PM
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: United States
Posts: 327
Welcome to the world of DIY! I have done it with my Honda 2-3 months back. It isn't easy if you don't have right tools to do it. However, it certainly is a DIY work. Go to get a Haynes replair manual from auto store for about $20. It details out the step by step for replacing CV joint. However, to make job more easier, I would suggest you to change the entire axle assembly. It happens to be cheaper then CV joint itself. I got mine for $50 + core for axle assembly. Good luck!
Old 08-17-05, 03:27 PM
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Second the recommendation to replace the half-shaft assembly. Might check before you shell out for a manual.
Old 08-17-05, 03:38 PM
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Thanks! Sounds like good advice! I'll give it a go.

Old 08-17-05, 03:39 PM
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Thank you! I don't know if I'm up to that kind of task, but I will look into it....I did buy a haines manual, but can't find the darned thing.....

Old 08-17-05, 10:14 PM
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if you dont want to buy the manual just goto a store and quickly skim over it, it's pretty simple once you know where all the nuts and bolts are that you have to remove. in general what your gonna need to do is, unbolt the axle nut, unbolt the front knuckle and swing that out of the way, then you pop the alxe out of the tranny. thats a very general description as i mainly work on hondas/toyotas, heh.

and yea, like someone else has mentioned, it is much more cost and time effective to purchase a remanufactured axle from autozone or pepboys. good luck!
Old 08-18-05, 05:47 AM
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 59
There is an online manuel for this car on the auto zone web site.
Old 08-18-05, 07:35 AM
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 229
not a bad job

I agree with replacing the entire axle shaft they are reasonably inexpensive and come with a warranty for future troubles. You need to raise the vehicle, remove the tire then remove large nut and washer on the end of the axle shaft it could be a 30 mm nut. under the brake rotor on the inside remove the "pinchbolt" that holds the lower ball joint. I use a large prybar (wrecking bar 3' long works nice) it is also a good idea to hit the attachment point of the ball joint with a hammer to loosen it. Pry down on the lower control arm (shaped like a triangle with the lower ball joint attached) this will remove the ball joint allowing the strut assembly to swing out for clearance to remove the axle shaft. remove the end of the axle shaft from the hub assembly (where you just removed the large nut) with a punch and a hammer in the divot provided not the threads. At this point the axle shaft should hang down from the wheel side where you removed the large nut. Then at the axle side still inside the transmission you will need to use a long screwdriver or some similar shaped tool put this at the bottom of the "cup" shaped end of the axle (metal) still inside the transaxle whack it hard with a hammer drivning it away from the transmission, this will compress the little "circlip" on the end of the axleshaft inside the transmission and allow it to pop out. then carefully remove the shaft as the clip may want to hit the seal and sometimes damage it. Installing the new shaft will be the reverse. install the shaft into the transaxle and you will have to give it a sharp push to get it to "snap in" and compress the clip I usually put the open end of the clip facing down (gravity seems to help in this position) make sure it snaps in all the way, if it does not you may roadtest this and it could pop out and leave you stranded since it is no longer engaged in the differential gear. then when putting the threaded end into the hub assembly if you cannot get enough of the threads through the hub to turn the large nut on a good couple of threads there is a hub installer I am sure you can borrow/rent. It is not needed all the time just on some of the stubborn ones more often the Escorts not the Taurus. Tighten all bolts and wheel lugs. Good luk it is not a bad job for a DIYER.
If you need further help I am usually able to respond M-F during the daytime.

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