Motor Overheat After Shutdown

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  #1  
Old 09-27-05, 12:39 PM
PAX2000
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Motor Overheat After Shutdown

My 94 5.7 temp reads good untill I shutdown. I have 155,000 miles. The temp then goes sometimes "redline". This is real, you can hear and smell it. I have replaced the therom/ flushed the system and put in new anti. Nothing has helped, can you?
 

Last edited by PAX2000; 09-27-05 at 12:57 PM. Reason: more info
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  #2  
Old 09-27-05, 08:49 PM
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im thinking thermostat or water pump
 
  #3  
Old 09-27-05, 09:16 PM
Cherry
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take off the bottom rad hose and then put ur water hose from ur housein the the rad from the rad cap spout. and turn on the water ... how fast does the water take to get from the top of the rad to the botton and pour out? ur rad might be pluggged. also is ur car over heating when driving ? if not ther its not your thermostat.
 
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Old 09-29-05, 10:57 AM
PAX2000
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I flushed the cooling system and replaced the thermostat even through all looked OK. The temp is good while motor is running.
 
  #5  
Old 09-29-05, 11:25 PM
jpotts461
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Check the fan clutch. 5.7 s are hardy but too many overheats and it will be toast. Strange overheats seem to lead to head problems.
 
  #6  
Old 09-30-05, 04:14 AM
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Keep in mind that the water temperature on every vehicle on the road goes up as soon as you shut the engine off. I'm not sure you have a problem. You night consider changing the temp sending sensor to eliminate the possibility that it's an indication problem.
 
  #7  
Old 09-30-05, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by the_tow_guy
Keep in mind that the water temperature on every vehicle on the road goes up as soon as you shut the engine off. I'm not sure you have a problem. You night consider changing the temp sending sensor to eliminate the possibility that it's an indication problem.

sounds like the sender or gauge, no other parts have any function when the engine is stopped. All engines get hotter when shut off.
 
  #8  
Old 09-30-05, 02:49 PM
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Yes there are parts that function when the engine is off...the pressure cap. It should hold 12-15 lbs pressure to raise the boiling point up to 250* or so.

If bad say holding only a few lbs instead of it's rating, coolant boils at a lower temp, maybe 220* or 230*.
 
  #9  
Old 09-30-05, 07:14 PM
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edit

in my previous post i was refering to parts that were mentioned in the previous post. The Cap is actually 2 psi for every 1 lb. 15 lb cap 30 degrees plus boiloing point. depending on the mixture of antifreeze. A bad cap does not have anything to do with the problem at hand. The cap simple changes the temp at which water will boil. It will not make water heat up because pressure is leaking out of the system..
 

Last edited by chevydrivin; 09-30-05 at 07:26 PM.
  #10  
Old 09-30-05, 11:34 PM
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But the cap does have to do with the problem at hand. The poster states "The temp then goes sometimes "redline". This is real, you can hear and smell it.”.

It will not make it heat up but a bad cap will allow the coolant to boil when it shouldn’t. That will account for the noise he hears and the smell will be the boiling coolant being pushed back to the coolant bottle.

A bad temp gauge/sender cannot cause a noise and smell. It can only cause inaccurate readings.

His gauge readings after shut down may be normal for that vehicle. Most people don’t turn the key to on the look at them. Most likely he did it after hearing the noise and smell. If the cap held the proper pressure he would of never suspected a problem.
 
  #11  
Old 10-01-05, 06:15 AM
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Sounds like it has been figured out. Pax change the rad cap its cheap enough and see if that fixes your problems.
 
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Old 10-01-05, 02:17 PM
PAX2000
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I am on my way to get a new one, I'll check back and let you know. Thanks
 
  #13  
Old 10-02-05, 06:39 AM
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Interesting technical discussion. I'll be curious to see what the "fix" is.
 
  #14  
Old 10-02-05, 06:42 PM
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I think the tow guy is right, you might not have a problem. Coolant stops flowing when the engine is shut off, so it will accumulate a lot of heat from the engine and the coolant temperature will climb substantially, especially if the temperature sending unit is in a cylinder head or anywhere near a combustion chamber.
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  #15  
Old 10-09-05, 08:12 AM
PAX2000
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Thank you, thank you!! I replace the rad cap and have now driven 500+ miles over the last several days WITH OUT ANY HEAT PROBLEM!!!! What would I do without my new found friends? Thanks again!
 
  #16  
Old 10-11-05, 09:02 AM
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I think toyotaman was "the man" on that one.

tg
 
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