'93 Escort Code Interpretation Runaway Idle

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  #1  
Old 11-06-05, 08:37 AM
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'93 Escort Code Interpretation Runaway Idle

In checking on a runaway idle on a '93 Ford Escort 1.9 (J-vin) w/manual trans, I retrieved the following codes:

KOEO =
111 System Pass

Memory =
118 Coolant temp sensor above maximum voltage

338 Engine Coolant Temp lower than expected

542 Fuel pump secondary circut failure control module to ground

KOER =
412 Cannot control RPMduring KOER high RPM check

116 Coolant temp higher or lower than expected

The engine should have been at operating temperature after idling for 10+ min., and according to the temp gauge (which reads low compared to actual), it was right there
I certainly would (and probably will) do the test again and make sure it was warmed up, but I really think it was

I guess it comes down to three areas:

1)
Would a CTS above maximum voltage indicate failure of the sensor?
Above?
Along with coolant temp lower than expected?
On this this sensor the higher voltage means lower temps?

2)
The FP secondary circut is not mentioned in the manual
"...failure...to ground" is a loose ground wire?

3)
"Cannot control RPM during KOER high RPM check"
That's what I'm trying to fix
Would I be correct in assuming that a loose ground on the FP secondary circut and/or a skunked CTS could cause wild RPM swings @ idle?
If so, how do I find a "failure to ground" in the FP secondary circut?
The only control module I know of is the EEC-IV

Thank you in advance for any tips, tricks, suggestions, or solutions
 
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  #2  
Old 11-07-05, 04:49 AM
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Give me some reading on these sensor's. I want Throttle Position sensor voltage at idle. Coolant temp sensor voltage with engine warm. And MAF sensor Baro reading.
 
  #3  
Old 11-07-05, 05:01 AM
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Sure, let me make sure I'm doing it right:
Originally Posted by hogfan
Throttle Position sensor voltage at idle.
Piercing the 2 wires and clipping the VoltMeter to them is the only way I know
Originally Posted by hogfan
Coolant temp sensor voltage with engine warm.
VoltMeter in between (one side) connector and sensor, jump the other side
Originally Posted by hogfan
And MAF sensor Baro reading.
This one's got me stumped, more familiar with the MAP engines
 
  #4  
Old 11-07-05, 05:39 AM
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It just occured to me this vehicle supports the DCL op data my scanner can read
I can get the TPS voltage during idle with it (no piercing)
The ECT reads in degrees though
And no MAF info as I recall
 
  #5  
Old 11-08-05, 09:35 AM
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I'm reasonably sure that it does have a MAF sensor. It should be cleaned.

You probably have 3 temperature sensors. One with one wire that only goes to the dash gauge. Leave that one alone. Two more that look exactly the same (except plugs are a little different). One is only used for the fan. The other goes to the computer. It's the one that goes to the computer that's giving you the codes. It could be bad or just have a bad connection. If it's bad and you have to remove it. you will need to remove the battery and the air intake hose right above it. Use a deep well socket (26mm comes to mind, but I forget exactly). The problem with these sensors is that they are mounted in a metal piece that floats between two heater hoses, so when you turn the socket the hose flexes. It might be easier to remove the whole assembly and replace the sensor then reinstall (I assume that this is one of Mazda's better ideas since they did this ). Anyway, before youy resort to that, the electrical sensors on the temperature sender could be corroded and giving a false reading to the computer. They can be cleaned, and the end piece in the wiring harness can be replaced since it may not be possible to clean in place (NAPA carries it).

Anyway, check out the Escort enthusiast site here:
http://www.feoa.net
 
  #6  
Old 11-10-05, 05:39 AM
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Thanks Icondude
I may get to poke around in there this weekend
 
  #7  
Old 11-19-05, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by hogfan
I want Throttle Position sensor voltage at idle.
0.4
Originally Posted by hogfan
Coolant temp sensor voltage with engine warm.
Didn't get the Voltage yet, but it was reading as 118* F on the scanner and midway on the gauge

As it overheated before my eyes
Originally Posted by hogfan
And MAF sensor Baro reading.
Still not sure how to get this
Originally Posted by Icondude
it does have a MAF sensor. It should be cleaned
Clean as a whistle

After it over heated I did not try the voltage off the temp sensor
That kind of threw me when that happened
I will try that now

However, the engine obviously over heated, and the low and high fans remained OFF and the interior gauge read the middle of NORMAL and my scanner read 118* up until I shut it off

I'm thinking that the coolant temp sensor must be toast
I'm not sure if that's giving it a surging idle, but it doesn't look like it's working properly
The radiator certainly can't boil over at 118*F

Originally Posted by Icondude
You probably have 3 temperature sensors. One with one wire that only goes to the dash gauge. Leave that one alone. Two more that look exactly the same (except plugs are a little different). One is only used for the fan. The other goes to the computer. It's the one that goes to the computer that's giving you the codes.
It seems the dash gauge, computer, and cooling fan are all in error or not operating
This would lead me to believe (perhaps incorrectly) they are using the same sensor, and that sensor is bad

I'm thinking I should replace the ECT
What do you guys think?

Thanks

EDIT:
I found the ECT in the floating metal piece
Also right next to the ECT in that piece is the single wire sensor (gauge sensor?)
So there's at least two sensors
 

Last edited by slickshift; 11-19-05 at 09:23 AM. Reason: added info
  #8  
Old 11-19-05, 07:01 PM
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vacuum leaks?

vacuum leaks can cause run away idle
check air intake haose and plumbing to brake boster and HVAC look for broken t or y.
 
  #9  
Old 11-21-05, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by slickshift
0.4

Didn't get the Voltage yet, but it was reading as 118* F on the scanner and midway on the gauge

As it overheated before my eyes

Still not sure how to get this

Clean as a whistle

After it over heated I did not try the voltage off the temp sensor
That kind of threw me when that happened
I will try that now

However, the engine obviously over heated, and the low and high fans remained OFF and the interior gauge read the middle of NORMAL and my scanner read 118* up until I shut it off

I'm thinking that the coolant temp sensor must be toast
I'm not sure if that's giving it a surging idle, but it doesn't look like it's working properly
The radiator certainly can't boil over at 118*F


It seems the dash gauge, computer, and cooling fan are all in error or not operating
This would lead me to believe (perhaps incorrectly) they are using the same sensor, and that sensor is bad

I'm thinking I should replace the ECT
What do you guys think?

Thanks

EDIT:
I found the ECT in the floating metal piece
Also right next to the ECT in that piece is the single wire sensor (gauge sensor?)
So there's at least two sensors
The single wire sensor is for the gauge. The other one goes to the computer which is also ued for the fan.
 
  #10  
Old 11-22-05, 09:57 AM
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The vac lines did have a complete check-up this summer
Some Ls and lines were replaced
(Often on the underside of those Ls are hard to see/feel cracks)
I may do another run through, as that was 6 months ago

I did end up changing the sensor
The new one was all brass on the end that goes into the tube, the old one was plastic
It seems to have helped
I haven't noticed any crazy idle, but I'm not sure it's been long enough to say for sure, as I did rest the computer

I haven't hooked it up to the scanner yet (with the new sensor)
I figure I'll give it some time (start cycles)

It still appears the low fan is not turning on, but it's been pretty cold so I don't think I've had a fair test yet

Thanks guys
I'll post back after a few more start-ups
 
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