CV's or alignment?
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CV's or alignment?
Gentlemen:
I have a 2000 Blazer, 4.3 auto trans, 61K miles, push-button 4WD w/2 Hi/4 Hi/4 Lo/Auto feature. I recently started hearing a whine/road noise sound that appears to originate from the front left, more prominent at speed when turning to the right, whether a sharp or gradual turn. It is not audible when driving straight down the road or turning left. It is not a grinding or clicking sound; it sounds like an old high mileage standard shift Datsun I used to have. The vehicle has for some time now had a slight pull to the right; I just have not yet done an alignment. I began to notice the sound after replacing the old tires. The new tires are Tiger Paw all-season, not an aggressive tread, and similar to the old tires. The old tires did not show any sign of uneven wear, nor do the new ones after 5 months/5K miles or so. All fluids, to include diff/trans/transfer case have been changed according to the maintenance schedule. Could this be an alignment problem, or is it possibly a CV joint getting noisy/worn out? The vehicle is not driven off-road, only snowy Michigan winters. I will be getting an alignment pronto to see if it corrects the noise.
Is it possible to grease the CV’s while they are still on the vehicle? The Haynes manual only lists the procedure for complete tear down/overhaul of the CV’s, and half-shaft replacement. I can't see any tears or leaks on the boots.
I have priced CV’s and half shafts, it appears that the complete half-shaft is cheaper than CV’s alone. The local auto parts chain has new half-shafts around $300 a pair compared to GM factory at about $800 a pair. Would there be any appreciable quality/durability differences between the two, should I have to replace them? Rebuilt half-shafts are about $150 per pair. What’s the skinny on new versus rebuilt? I have replaced VW IRS axles in the past; these seem fairly similar.
On a side note, I replaced the brake pads at all four corners shortly after the new tires. The right rear inner pad was worn all the way past the brake wear indicator; the other pads seemed to have about 35-40% remaining. Could a sticky caliper be the source of the wear/pull to the right issue?
Do CV's wear out at only 61K miles?
I appreciate your thoughts and suggestions.
Greg D.
I have a 2000 Blazer, 4.3 auto trans, 61K miles, push-button 4WD w/2 Hi/4 Hi/4 Lo/Auto feature. I recently started hearing a whine/road noise sound that appears to originate from the front left, more prominent at speed when turning to the right, whether a sharp or gradual turn. It is not audible when driving straight down the road or turning left. It is not a grinding or clicking sound; it sounds like an old high mileage standard shift Datsun I used to have. The vehicle has for some time now had a slight pull to the right; I just have not yet done an alignment. I began to notice the sound after replacing the old tires. The new tires are Tiger Paw all-season, not an aggressive tread, and similar to the old tires. The old tires did not show any sign of uneven wear, nor do the new ones after 5 months/5K miles or so. All fluids, to include diff/trans/transfer case have been changed according to the maintenance schedule. Could this be an alignment problem, or is it possibly a CV joint getting noisy/worn out? The vehicle is not driven off-road, only snowy Michigan winters. I will be getting an alignment pronto to see if it corrects the noise.
Is it possible to grease the CV’s while they are still on the vehicle? The Haynes manual only lists the procedure for complete tear down/overhaul of the CV’s, and half-shaft replacement. I can't see any tears or leaks on the boots.
I have priced CV’s and half shafts, it appears that the complete half-shaft is cheaper than CV’s alone. The local auto parts chain has new half-shafts around $300 a pair compared to GM factory at about $800 a pair. Would there be any appreciable quality/durability differences between the two, should I have to replace them? Rebuilt half-shafts are about $150 per pair. What’s the skinny on new versus rebuilt? I have replaced VW IRS axles in the past; these seem fairly similar.
On a side note, I replaced the brake pads at all four corners shortly after the new tires. The right rear inner pad was worn all the way past the brake wear indicator; the other pads seemed to have about 35-40% remaining. Could a sticky caliper be the source of the wear/pull to the right issue?
Do CV's wear out at only 61K miles?
I appreciate your thoughts and suggestions.
Greg D.
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Short update to the above problem. I went out to a nearby field and began driving in a circle at 15mph or so, with steering all the way to lock. Lo and behold, a clunk-clunk-clunk when when going to the right, nothing when going left. Couldn't hear it/feel it at low speed. Got the noise in both 2 and 4 hi.
I'm now leaning more towards the CV's.
Suggestions?
G. Downs
I'm now leaning more towards the CV's.
Suggestions?
G. Downs
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Hi Lamigra311,
Typically a C.V. joint makes a noise going around a corner and not on straight aways. A C.V. will make noise in either two wheel drive or 4 wheel drive since the wheels are still turning. If you are getting a constant noise when cornering then I would look at the C.V. joint as being a possible problem If you can get the vehicle up off the ground and crawl under it you may be able to see if there is a torn C.V.boot this would indicate a loss of grease and could easily be the problem. Noises and vibrations are the two hardest things to diagnose on a car, particularlly when we cant drive them and run them on a hoist.
Hope this helps
Jeff
Typically a C.V. joint makes a noise going around a corner and not on straight aways. A C.V. will make noise in either two wheel drive or 4 wheel drive since the wheels are still turning. If you are getting a constant noise when cornering then I would look at the C.V. joint as being a possible problem If you can get the vehicle up off the ground and crawl under it you may be able to see if there is a torn C.V.boot this would indicate a loss of grease and could easily be the problem. Noises and vibrations are the two hardest things to diagnose on a car, particularlly when we cant drive them and run them on a hoist.
Hope this helps
Jeff
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For what its worth, I know this is a year and a half late, it was the front wheel bearings/hub assembly. Replaced both, problem solved.
Simple bolt-off/bolt-on procedure, thanks to the priceless Haynes manual.
Simple bolt-off/bolt-on procedure, thanks to the priceless Haynes manual.