Car amp Question?

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  #1  
Old 12-23-05, 12:51 PM
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Car amp Question?

Im not sure if this in the right forum, if not mods could you please move it to the proper one.

Ok so for the past few months I have been having a little issue with my Kicker KX600.1 amp. A few months ago I noticed that the amp would click off after a a few minutes of use, then it would turn back on and be fine a few weeks, then it would do it again. So I figured that maybe the setting were set to high, so I adjusted them, but still the samething. My next thought was maybe it is over heating because it is summer, so I put a fan on it , and still nothing. Well flash forward to yesterday morning. I get in my car start driving, amp is fine, then out of the clear blue my sub stops working. I figured it would come back on in a few seconds, but to my surprise it didnt turn back on at all.

I get home to see if maybe there is a loose wire somewhere, but nothing still dead . Next I unplug the sub and remote wire to see if maybe the wires were bad, nothing, but I did notice something odd. On the side of the amp there is 2 LEDS one green and one red that light up when the amp is hooked up, on, and powered properly. I noticed that if I unhook the sub and hook the remote wire up, the Red LED lights up faintly then goes out. I have no clue what could have happened. Today Im going to take it all apart to check all my wires and test the amp, but before I do that I was wondering if anyone could chime in and help me out with what could possibly be wrong? Oh this amp was made in 2002 and has a12" Eclipse 8122DVC Aluminum hooked up to it and has 0 gauge wire. I already checked all the fuses on the amp and the main lead fuse and they are fine.
 
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  #2  
Old 12-24-05, 12:29 AM
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Hmmmm... Some ideas,

you said that "I noticed that if I unhook the sub and hook the remote wire up, the Red LED lights up faintly then goes out" (For everything I suggest below, I'm assuming that your head unit is working normally.)

Have you tried disconnecting the sub wires and leaving the remote wire connected, then turning your stereo on? Does the green light stay on?
(The remote lead tells the amp that your stereo is on and to power itself up.) Do you have a meter or could you borrow one? Using the meter, are you getting 12V on the remote wire with the stereo on? ***Note: Don't use a test light for the remote wire testing, only a meter, or you may damage the head unit.*** Are you getting 12V between the battery connection and ground at the amp? If no meter, then remove the wire from the stereo, then connect a small jumper wire from the remote terminal to the battery connection-does the amp power up now?

Carefully check the ground wire, is it well connected still? There are fuses at the amp itself and on the main wire somewhere near the battery, are both of them good?

If the green light stays on, then check the wiring to the sub(s). If more than one sub, are they connected in series or parallel? (Series is higher resistance, parallel is lower, makes a difference to the ohms the amp sees.) What's the ohms on the sub(s)? Is the amp rated to work with that ohms? Maybe remove one of the subs and make sure the wires are still connected to the sub inside the box (maybe shorting out inside the box?)?

If the ground is good, fuses are good, you've got power and you can't get the green light on with no sub connected, then I think something inside the amp blew....unless it's a high-end amp, it may be cheaper to replace it.


I hope this helped!
 
  #3  
Old 12-26-05, 08:06 AM
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Yeah I tested all the connections and all of them including the remote wire is reading 13.97 VDC. I unhooked my sub and tested it and still nothing, no power. The red light is a protection light and the green light is a power light. Now I did notice every so often if I touch the remote wire to it the protection light faintly lights up then goes out. Im starting to think that maybe there is something dead on the inside, but now the questions WHERE? Here is a picture of what the amp looks like. Im not sure where to start

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a20...n/ab295167.jpg
 
  #4  
Old 12-26-05, 12:49 PM
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Canton Ohio
Posts: 1,397
Your amp has three way circuit protection. You may have your speakers bridged incorrectly for that amp. This may work better and keep it from kicking into circuit protect mode.

 
  #5  
Old 12-29-05, 10:51 AM
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Ok I have it hooked as 2ohm in Paralle. Im not sure if this will help or not, but here is the specs of my AMp and sub


http://www.shopping.com/xPF-Eclipse_SW8122DVC

http://www.dealtime.co.uk/xPF-Kicker_KX600_1


I hope this helps, Im also going to email Kicker as well. Thanks for the help so far guys
 
  #6  
Old 12-29-05, 12:12 PM
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Ok here is the response I got from Kicker Tech Support


What ohm sub are you using? If it is 2 ohm DVC sub wired n parallel then
that is the problem. You have been showing the amp a 1 ohm load. The amp
can play a 1 ohm load for a while, but either the sub or the amp will
eventually be damaged from running the amp into low impedance. Hopefully
the amp is not damaged. I would disconnect the subwoofer and see if the
amp's power light comes back on. If it does, and the protection light
stays off, then the sub is damaged.




The Problem with this is that I disconnected the sub and STILL nothing. The most I get is the Protection light flickers faintly then it goes out, but the power light does not do anything at all. I will be PISSED if the sub is damaged, the amp I can deal with, but not the sub.
 
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