1990 Ford Mustang LX 2.3L OHC

Reply

  #1  
Old 01-20-06, 03:55 PM
littleworker's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Sweet Home Tennessee
Posts: 268
Angry 1990 Ford Mustang LX 2.3L OHC

Well I finally bought my first car and it was running great til I went to start it the other day and now it just keeps getting worse and worse. I went out and started it wednesday morning after hooking up all of the vacuum lines and whatnot and now it will hardly run. As soon as it started up the check engine light came on and it was running hard. I have pulled the EGR valve off and whatnot just to see if that was it and it is not. The front cad is full and the back cad is filliing up too so they have to be cut off. The motor oil, transmission fluid, radiator fluid and whatnot is all good and pretty much clean.

The car is running rough and very rich....just to give you an idea I bet I used a little over a quarter of a tank going 15 miles in it. To get it started today my friend had to put his hand over the opening in the throttle body and had to open and close the throttle body to start it. We barely got it started. Well once it was running it was shooting a little bit of black smoke out and it was trying to die on us, The car would cut out between 900 and 1300 rpm and it would backfire a little too if reved high.

I talked to two people, one of them works at the place where I bought the car and the other works at the local AutoZone and he had a car just like mine when he was my age. The said it was some sort of an air sensor on my throttle body that was bad. The guy at autozone said to replace the mass air sensor or the air temp sensor on it. The mass air costs $70 and it has a $60 core charge behind it too. He said that I could borrow a code reader but I would have to use it and bring it right back and that really can't happen because it is about a 45 minute drive there.

I just thought that I would ask my buddies at DIY to see if they could help me at all. I start driving on Tuesday when I get my license so I would love to have it running by then. I appreciate any help that you can offer.

ALSO, IF ANYONE CAN GET ME A DIAGRAM OR A PICTURE OF THE SENSOR, AND WHERE IT IS LOCATED ON MY CAR, THAT I NEED IT WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 01-20-06, 05:10 PM
LouBazooka's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 553
sensor

pull the codes before anything else, it will save you time and money.
 
  #3  
Old 01-20-06, 06:08 PM
Lugnut's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Kansas City, Missouri.
Posts: 1,172
Pull codes, and pick up a Haynes Manual for $15. If your going to do your own repair, you will want/need the book just to find where parts and whatnot are located.

Clean the MAF, don't replace it.
 
  #4  
Old 01-21-06, 05:43 AM
littleworker's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Sweet Home Tennessee
Posts: 268
Originally Posted by Lugnut
Pull codes, and pick up a Haynes Manual for $15. If your going to do your own repair, you will want/need the book just to find where parts and whatnot are located.

Clean the MAF, don't replace it.
Thanks, so I was told there is a way to get the checck engine light to read the codes for you, something about turning the key on and off and it will start blinking, so how do I do that?
 
  #5  
Old 01-21-06, 12:02 PM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Cape Cod
Posts: 4,320
Pulling codes from an EEC-IV, DIY style
http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/

No key on off thing, I don't know where that came from
Oh wait, there's 3 tests
Key On Engine Off (not started)
Key On Engine Running
and
Continous Memory

Maybe that's where that On/Off thing came from

Anyway
Don't buy/replace/disconnect anything till you get the codes and post them up here
They sometimes can be misleading
For example: "O2 Sensor Reading Out Of Range" doesn't mean replace the O2 sensor, it could mean something else is making it run rich, and the O2 is just reporting that it's way out of range

There are many other things to look at, but the first thing to do is pull the codes, and see what that tells us
 
  #6  
Old 01-22-06, 03:27 PM
littleworker's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Sweet Home Tennessee
Posts: 268
Thanks man, my brother in law picked me up a Haynes book when he was in town and I was checking my symptoms and whatnot and it showed, repair as needed the vacuum pump or egr valve but it listed that ignition timing could be off on everyone of my symptoms when the car is running or idling. Could that make it to where the car is backfiring some in the intake? I mean, that is what the book said.
 
  #7  
Old 01-23-06, 04:40 AM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Cape Cod
Posts: 4,320
Probably not
If you haven't done any work on the engine, it's unlikely that the timing could get that far off
The EEC-IV will compensate for any small timing mal-adjustments

Easy enough to check with a timing light though
The procedure will be in the Haynes
 
  #8  
Old 01-23-06, 04:49 PM
littleworker's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Sweet Home Tennessee
Posts: 268
Thanks man, when I get to work on it I will let you know how it goes....
 
  #9  
Old 01-27-06, 04:01 PM
littleworker's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Sweet Home Tennessee
Posts: 268
Just an Update

Well after spending two hours almost today, my friend and I still cannot get it to fire up. We pulled a temp sensor off and checked it. We pulled off my air box and it was fine as far as I can tell. We pulled the spark plugs out and re-gapped them just to make sure they are alright. We changed the coil packs from his truck to mine and that still did not help any....I am stuck now. I have my license and insurance on the car but I cannot drive it and it is [email protected]@ing me off.

When it turns over, it will fire one or two pistons and then it fills like it isn't going to anymore. I don't know anymore what to do with it. The spark plugs are getting plenty of gas and whatnot and as far as I can tell everything is hooked up.

I cannot do a test on it because I do not have the equipment to do it with. I know a computer would help me figure out the problem but it is a matter of getting it there.
 
  #10  
Old 01-27-06, 05:47 PM
Lugnut's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Kansas City, Missouri.
Posts: 1,172
Well, don't lose your focus. Stay focused on pulling codes. Consider taking the 45 minute trip to autozone to use there's, and the 45 min trip back. Or start looking for someone that has one, or best yet, buy one for around $99 cause you will surely need it for future repairs as well as needing it multiple times for this current repair.
 
  #11  
Old 01-27-06, 08:02 PM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Cape Cod
Posts: 4,320
Yeah no need for a computer to pull codes from the EEC-IV
http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
 
  #12  
Old 01-27-06, 10:25 PM
Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,538
if you cannot even get the vehicle to start and it is back firing some through the intake it would probably be a good idea to look at the timing belt it is easily checked on this model as there is a removable plug on the timing cover just use a manual or check the link below for autozones website which gives instructions on how to check timing belt alignment for your vehicle.
if the timing belt checks out ok then you should check for spark on atleast 2 cylinders and if it is distributerless ignition check for spark on both the intake and exhuast side coil packs as it is not uncommon for them to intermittantly fire only one coil or only a couple of cylinders usually due to grounding problems.
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d80193bac.jsp
 
  #13  
Old 01-28-06, 04:41 AM
Lugnut's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Kansas City, Missouri.
Posts: 1,172
I quite agree about not needing a computer to pull codes on your OBDI car ! Thanks for catching that Slickshift.
 
  #14  
Old 01-28-06, 05:48 AM
littleworker's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Sweet Home Tennessee
Posts: 268
Quick question about the jumper wire thing, what exactly is that? How do I wire it up?o- Thank.s
 
  #15  
Old 01-28-06, 06:00 AM
Lugnut's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Kansas City, Missouri.
Posts: 1,172
In its simplist terms, it could be a simple paper clip, used to connect two pins inside a multi-pin plug. Most people make there own jumper wire with whatever pleases them. Usually a 12" length of stranded copper wire with a crimp-on connector at each end. Then alter the connector (file, smash, clip, etc) so it fits in whatever pins you want to jumper.

(Jumper = temporarily jump a current/voltage from one pin to another pin with a makeshift jumper cable)
 
  #16  
Old 01-28-06, 06:33 AM
littleworker's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Sweet Home Tennessee
Posts: 268
Thnaks everyone for the info, I now have to figure out how to pull my timing belt cover plug off. I tried to rotate it and I tried to pry it and I could not get it off for anything. I went ahead and pulled my cooling fan off for right now since it does not work cause pieces of the motor are falling out of it. My thermostat is stuck open so the motor does not run hot anyways. I know, I need to fix both of them and yes, I am planning on it.
 
  #17  
Old 01-28-06, 10:10 AM
littleworker's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Sweet Home Tennessee
Posts: 268
Well I tried the MIL test and couln't get it to work....

Yeah I tried and tried the Self Test and I just could not get it to work, I pulled the battery out now and I am charging it for right now. My negative terminal connector looked pretty bad so cut some fresh wire and put a new one on it. I have replaced my door speaker in the driver's side now. I guess I will see if having the battery pulled off for almost an hour or more will reset the systen. I will keep you updated.
 
  #18  
Old 01-28-06, 04:33 PM
Lugnut's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Kansas City, Missouri.
Posts: 1,172
Give the trouble code reading another try till you succeed. It really is simple to perform and you will need to know what the codes are.
 
  #19  
Old 01-28-06, 05:27 PM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Cape Cod
Posts: 4,320
He pulled the bat

The codes are cleared and you won't get new trouble codes with the no-start condition

The EEC-IV does a self-test though (quick test)
You'll want to get that test procedure down, if only to make sure the 'puter's not pooched

Also
Check for spark when attempting start
Check for fuel when attempting start
 
  #20  
Old 01-29-06, 05:44 AM
littleworker's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Sweet Home Tennessee
Posts: 268
Thanks slickshift and lugnut, I am going to put on a new air conditioner belt, a new drive belt (alternator), and I also bought a new timing belt that I will see if I need to pull off. I bought and have partially installed my new fan motor, it just needs to go on the car. I am going to fix the wiring to the motor as well. I also bought some Coolant and a Fail Safe Thermostat so I will not have to worry about my thermostat sticking.

My brother in law and I are going to work on it as much as we can today. He has a 1998 Dodge Cummings 24-valve turbo Diesel 3500 1 ton and we might pull it to his dad's shop. His neighbor has a computer to look it up on so we will pull it down there if we don't get it running before then. We should be able to get the job done considering they have restored a 1966, 1970, and 1972 Chevelle in it not counting that his dad's Semi is serviced in there.

Thanks for the help and I will let you know how it goes.
 
  #21  
Old 02-12-06, 12:29 PM
littleworker's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Sweet Home Tennessee
Posts: 268
Finally the problem was figured out....

Thank goodness after nearly a month of waiting and paying insurance on my car my buddy has found the cause and effect of my car problem. Alright my friend (who has done this many times) installed my cd player in my car. Well, somehow us installing the cd player fried my computer in my car or led to something messing that computer up. When he would go to read the computer with his computer, we would turn the key on and it would shut his computer off.
So, he has fixed my cd player problem I guess and the computer will be in tommorrow so if I am out of school for snow I will help him install it and whatnot.

I will keep you updated on the car.
 
  #22  
Old 02-12-06, 12:48 PM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Cape Cod
Posts: 4,320
Originally Posted by littleworker
... When he would go to read the computer with his computer, we would turn the key on and it would shut his computer off.
Yup, sounds like the 'puter's pooched
Let us know how it goes
 
  #23  
Old 02-17-06, 08:47 PM
littleworker's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Sweet Home Tennessee
Posts: 268
Cars running great...

..Well I have drove the car some tonight and it is running smooth. Not too much power and not too little...about where I want it. I do have one question...where the guy unhooked my speakers...could I just buy a small box with speakers and wire them straight to it and not hurt my computer because he did leave my cd player hooked up..he just pulled the speaker wires out. Thanks for all of the help.
 
  #24  
Old 02-18-06, 07:15 AM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Cape Cod
Posts: 4,320
Glad to hear it's running well
Any speakers should hook up to the old speaker wires with no effect on the electrical or computer wiring
If someone fried the computer hooking up a CD player, well, they messed up something other than the speaker wires
I'm still not sure how they fries the computer hooking up a CD player, but they must have messed with something or crossed some wires they shouldn't have
Just hooking up speakers to speaker wire shouldn't mess up anything
 
  #25  
Old 02-18-06, 09:29 AM
littleworker's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Sweet Home Tennessee
Posts: 268
Originally Posted by slickshift
Glad to hear it's running well
Any speakers should hook up to the old speaker wires with no effect on the electrical or computer wiring
If someone fried the computer hooking up a CD player, well, they messed up something other than the speaker wires
I'm still not sure how they fries the computer hooking up a CD player, but they must have messed with something or crossed some wires they shouldn't have
Just hooking up speakers to speaker wire shouldn't mess up anything
thanks man....i think alot of it had to do with where the wires were rigged before so that could be what have caused it. So...since I just changed out the door panel speakers and whatnot...I can hook them back up since they are color coated and whatnot?
 
  #26  
Old 02-18-06, 09:35 AM
littleworker's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Sweet Home Tennessee
Posts: 268
A picture of my car...

Here is a picture of my car...I have fixed the grey spot in it so its all good now...
 
  #27  
Old 02-18-06, 09:56 AM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Cape Cod
Posts: 4,320
Oh it's a hatch, I was thinking it was a notch
No matter, the speaker wires should just hook right up
btw, looks good with the ponies
 
  #28  
Old 02-18-06, 10:12 AM
littleworker's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Sweet Home Tennessee
Posts: 268
Originally Posted by slickshift
Oh it's a hatch, I was thinking it was a notch
No matter, the speaker wires should just hook right up
btw, looks good with the ponies
Thanks man..I have the Ponies on the outside and the GT interior on the inside..I will let you know how the speakers go.
 
  #29  
Old 02-18-06, 07:06 PM
littleworker's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Sweet Home Tennessee
Posts: 268
Got most of the bugs out now...

Alright I have great news..my cd player was already fully hooked up and was arching in the driver's side door panel. I just unhooked the front speakers and got some speakers out of the house and put them in the hatch. Now I have clear factories with a little bass and deepness from the ones that I put in the car. I took my seat out and got my seat belt fastener out from under it and put it back in.

I also changed the air conditioner and serpentine belts this morning. I have a question though.. why do the belts squeak for a while while my car is running up? I only ask because it sounds really bad but after its warm the car runs and drives great.

One more question...is there any way that someone can tell me the size of the gas tank and if there is any way to increase throttle response...thanks
 
  #30  
Old 02-18-06, 07:28 PM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Cape Cod
Posts: 4,320
New belts shouldn't squeal
Is there glazing from the old ones on ther pullies?

Should be 15 gal

The throttle response is probably where it should be
But if you want, check the voltage of the TPS
If it's off, it could give you a bad off-idle response or dead zone or "bog"
I don't recall the 2.3s specs, but the 5.0s is (ideally) between .95 and .99 volts
 
  #31  
Old 02-18-06, 07:43 PM
littleworker's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Sweet Home Tennessee
Posts: 268
Originally Posted by slickshift
New belts shouldn't squeal
Is there glazing from the old ones on ther pullies?

Should be 15 gal

The throttle response is probably where it should be
But if you want, check the voltage of the TPS
If it's off, it could give you a bad off-idle response or dead zone or "bog"
I don't recall the 2.3s specs, but the 5.0s is (ideally) between .95 and .99 volts
Thanks for the info man...I think there may be on the idler pulley but I am not sure....I know it was a little shiny...
 
  #32  
Old 02-19-06, 08:15 PM
littleworker's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Sweet Home Tennessee
Posts: 268
Well it isn't the belts after all.....

I checked and checked and checked my belts and they are fine....it turns out that the car only squeaks when it is rolling or moving...after a while it would quit but it seems as if it isn't anymore...I think that I may have something on my front driver's side brake rotor or something...it is coming from that side of the car. Also...I don't think my car is getting that good of gas mileage...I have drove around 50 miles on a quarter of a tank I would say...I think that the car isn't getting all that good of mileage for some reason... I have a new air filter, autolite platnium plugs, tranny fluid, spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor button,...the oil does need to be changed but that's about it. I wonder though if where the car is only running at 140-150 has anything to do with it...Thanks in advance for the help.
 
  #33  
Old 02-22-06, 02:58 PM
littleworker's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Sweet Home Tennessee
Posts: 268
What could make my gas mileage soo loooowww?

I have drove around 100 to 110 miles on over half a tank of gas? I have new air filter...fuel filter....m.a.p. sensor....new plugs and wires...etc... I know I can smell gas when I get in my car...don't know if that's the throttle body or the fuel tank emmisson canister...or what

The car was idling at 1300 rpm for the first half of the tank and I turned it down to 700-800 and the rpm would move constantly...like from 1000-1200-1300-1400-1200-1300 ...after backing the srew out to 700 rpm it doesn't do it as much..

Please help...
 
  #34  
Old 02-22-06, 03:05 PM
littleworker's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Sweet Home Tennessee
Posts: 268
Check out the ratings on my gas mileage by the government...

http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/noframes/6508.shtml
 
  #35  
Old 02-22-06, 04:36 PM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Cape Cod
Posts: 4,320
Pull codes
Check fuel pressure (there should be a schrader valve-like a tire valve- on the fuel rails you can hook a FP gauge to
1/2 tank for a hundred miles is not too bad for a vehicle in an ill state of tune, but if you smell gas you need to find out where it's comming from
Charcoal cannister, loose fitting in the line, injector o-ring gone bad, fuel filler neck, are common spots
You want to find out if it leaks all the time or just when running
 
  #36  
Old 02-22-06, 04:49 PM
littleworker's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Sweet Home Tennessee
Posts: 268
Originally Posted by slickshift
Pull codes
Check fuel pressure (there should be a schrader valve-like a tire valve- on the fuel rails you can hook a FP gauge to
1/2 tank for a hundred miles is not too bad for a vehicle in an ill state of tune, but if you smell gas you need to find out where it's comming from
Charcoal cannister, loose fitting in the line, injector o-ring gone bad, fuel filler neck, are common spots
You want to find out if it leaks all the time or just when running
Thanks Slickshift...i have plenty of fuel pressure because last time we checked it the thing shot gas above my car. I guess I will have to give it a good look through tommorrow...do you think the idle speed was hurting my gas mileage? or the fact my thermostat is stuck open.
 
  #37  
Old 02-22-06, 06:15 PM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Cape Cod
Posts: 4,320
Both would affect gas mileage, could be by a lot yeah
 
  #38  
Old 02-22-06, 06:33 PM
littleworker's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Sweet Home Tennessee
Posts: 268
Originally Posted by slickshift
Both would affect gas mileage, could be by a lot yeah
Alright thanks man, I am going to give it a good look tommorrow but besides that I think I wil fill the tank up and watch it again. I am planning on changing the thermostat this week or weekend sometime but i hope the idling will help.. I will keep you updated.
 
  #39  
Old 02-24-06, 02:49 PM
littleworker's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Sweet Home Tennessee
Posts: 268
Found my leak....

Well I replaced the thermostat yesterday and got the wiring and switch to convert my cooling fan into a toggle switch... It turns out my gas tank is leaking some....like a drop a minute or two. I think I am going to pull the shield off and patch it or maybe just wait til my first paycheck and buy a new one. Not sure yet.
 
Reply


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 11:01 AM.