Rewrote...91 Explorer Problems.....

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  #1  
Old 02-09-06, 04:34 PM
vinstrom
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Unhappy Rewrote...91 Explorer Problems.....

ok ..i have a 91 explorer 2wd..when i first got it, it drove and rode fine....then when i took it to get it vet( state emissions testing), they would not test it because the the rear brakes were not stopping the wheels..so i came home jacked the rear end up , removed wheels found a bake line (rear drivers) broke,,,fixed that,but still no brakes.....was told it could be the proportioning valve,i believe i got the valve recentered, put it back together took it ..rear brakes worked ,,got it tested ,then i got home..and heard a clunk sound at the rear when i pulled in the driveway....now i have nothing...i have to apply the brakes really fast to get them to grab,,if i try to aplly them slowly the go to the floor..........
any ideas..could it be proportioning valve, wheel cylinders,master cylinder,brake booster????/
i do get a flush sound when i do apply the brakes...also i have no light on nothing..just not peddle unless i act as if i am slamming on the brake???
ANY HELP PLEASE WOULD BE GREAT..I HAVE BOUGHT THE MANUALS AND STILL NO HELP...I CAN REPLACE THESE PARTS MYSELF BUT JUST NOT SURE WHAT PART TO START WITH.............HELP PLEASE....
 
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  #2  
Old 02-09-06, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by vinstrom
ok ..i have a 91 explorer 2wd..when i first got it, it drove and rode fine....then when i took it to get it vet( state emissions testing), they would not test it because the the rear brakes were not stopping the wheels..so i came home jacked the rear end up , removed wheels found a bake line (rear drivers) broke,,,fixed that,but still no brakes.....was told it could be the proportioning valve,i believe i got the valve recentered, put it back together took it ..rear brakes worked ,,got it tested ,then i got home..and heard a clunk sound at the rear when i pulled in the driveway....now i have nothing...i have to apply the brakes really fast to get them to grab,,if i try to aplly them slowly the go to the floor..........
any ideas..could it be proportioning valve, wheel cylinders,master cylinder,brake booster????/
i do get a flush sound when i do apply the brakes...also i have no light on nothing..just not peddle unless i act as if i am slamming on the brake???
ANY HELP PLEASE WOULD BE GREAT..I HAVE BOUGHT THE MANUALS AND STILL NO HELP...I CAN REPLACE THESE PARTS MYSELF BUT JUST NOT SURE WHAT PART TO START WITH.............HELP PLEASE....

did you bleed the brakes after replacing broken line ?
it sounds like you have some air bubbles some where in rear lines, bleed system again and if that doesn't work most likely it'll be your master cylinder.
 
  #3  
Old 02-10-06, 04:40 PM
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Question our442

Originally Posted by LouBazooka
did you bleed the brakes after replacing broken line ?
it sounds like you have some air bubbles some where in rear lines, bleed system again and if that doesn't work most likely it'll be your master cylinder.
Did you check rear brakes for leakey wheel cylinders after repairing line.
 
  #4  
Old 02-10-06, 05:47 PM
vinstrom
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Yes No Leaks No Nothing Nowhere..i Did Bleed Them Some Today And Now I Have Some Brake..just Real Spongy,
 
  #5  
Old 02-13-06, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by vinstrom
Yes No Leaks No Nothing Nowhere..i Did Bleed Them Some Today And Now I Have Some Brake..just Real Spongy,
Keep Bleeding untill all air is out and a hard firm pedal. If you are not able to get hard firm pedal air is getting in somewhere.
 
  #6  
Old 02-14-06, 04:48 AM
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Sounds like it needs a good bleeding

Are the rears disc or drum?
 
  #7  
Old 02-14-06, 04:56 AM
vinstrom
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Originally Posted by slickshift
Sounds like it needs a good bleeding

Are the rears disc or drum?

the rears are drums.....i have bled and bled..i get a hard peddle but if i slowly appl the brakes i go all the way to the floor,,but if i hit the brakes quickly i have more brake than i need....
 
  #8  
Old 02-14-06, 05:35 AM
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The rear shoes need to be adjusted
There should be a slot (possibly covered with a rubber tab) that you can insert an adjustment tool, or flat head screwdriver into, to move the adjusting wheel to loosen or tighten the shoes against the drum

The wheels should actually feel "drag" when turning them by hand when the rears are adjusted properly

Sometimes the easiest way is to put the rear in the air, take off the wheels and drums, and adjust them that way

Either way, it's easier to adjust with the rear in the air and the wheels off
 
  #9  
Old 02-14-06, 06:09 AM
vinstrom
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Originally Posted by slickshift
The rear shoes need to be adjusted
There should be a slot (possibly covered with a rubber tab) that you can insert an adjustment tool, or flat head screwdriver into, to move the adjusting wheel to loosen or tighten the shoes against the drum

The wheels should actually feel "drag" when turning them by hand when the rears are adjusted properly

Sometimes the easiest way is to put the rear in the air, take off the wheels and drums, and adjust them that way

Either way, it's easier to adjust with the rear in the air and the wheels off
ok i will try that..i already adjusted it before...will this make it go to the floor one minute and a good brake the next??/?/
 
  #10  
Old 02-14-06, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by vinstrom
ok i will try that..i already adjusted it before...will this make it go to the floor one minute and a good brake the next??/?/
Not usually
But if they are too loose they could work better if you slam on the brakes, and be ineffective when you squeeze them

I still think there is air in, or a leak in the lines or M/C, but it's kinda hard to say w/o seeing/trying them

Even if it turns out not to be the problem (rears needing adj.), it's a good idea to eliminate mal-adjusted rears as a potential problem before delving into the lines or M/C
 
  #11  
Old 02-14-06, 06:54 AM
vinstrom
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Originally Posted by slickshift
Not usually
But if they are too loose they could work better if you slam on the brakes, and be ineffective when you squeeze them

I still think there is air in, or a leak in the lines or M/C, but it's kinda hard to say w/o seeing/trying them

Even if it turns out not to be the problem (rears needing adj.), it's a good idea to eliminate mal-adjusted rears as a potential problem before delving into the lines or M/C
i agree i will check the adjustment but i think air is getting in the lines somewhere....thanks agian
 
  #12  
Old 02-23-06, 04:20 AM
vinstrom
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slef bleeding brakes???????????????????

Originally Posted by vinstrom
i agree i will check the adjustment but i think air is getting in the lines somewhere....thanks agian
ok any one have any tips on bleeding the brakes on a 1991 explorer with abs..by my self?????? i am a single father and can not afford to have a a shop do it professionally..any help guys would be great....

also i adjusted the rears but if i adjust them to much they will not release when i put on the brakes...
 
  #13  
Old 02-24-06, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by vinstrom
ok ..i have a 91 explorer 2wd..when i first got it, it drove and rode fine....then when i took it to get it vet( state emissions testing), they would not test it because the the rear brakes were not stopping the wheels..so i came home jacked the rear end up , removed wheels found a bake line (rear drivers) broke,,,fixed that,but still no brakes.....was told it could be the proportioning valve,i believe i got the valve recentered, put it back together took it ..rear brakes worked ,,got it tested ,then i got home..and heard a clunk sound at the rear when i pulled in the driveway....now i have nothing...i have to apply the brakes really fast to get them to grab,,if i try to aplly them slowly the go to the floor..........
any ideas..could it be proportioning valve, wheel cylinders,master cylinder,brake booster????/
i do get a flush sound when i do apply the brakes...also i have no light on nothing..just not peddle unless i act as if i am slamming on the brake???
ANY HELP PLEASE WOULD BE GREAT..I HAVE BOUGHT THE MANUALS AND STILL NO HELP...I CAN REPLACE THESE PARTS MYSELF BUT JUST NOT SURE WHAT PART TO START WITH.............HELP PLEASE....
Check master cylinder for air bubbles after bleading. Allso check brake booster for air leak.Air is still getting in lines. Is brake fuid staying up after job done.
 
  #14  
Old 02-24-06, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by our442
Check master cylinder for air bubbles after bleading. Allso check brake booster for air leak.Air is still getting in lines. Is brake fuid staying up after job done.
Are you bleading right rear first then left rear then right front last left front.
 
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