car overheating
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car overheating
1994 Pontiac Grand Prix 3.1 overheating. Temperture showing over 260 deg. Replaced thermostat, cleaned outside of radiator front and back. The heater/defroster is blowing nothing but cold air even though the temp gauge shows in the red. What next??
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Sounds to me like you got no flow.
I expect the belt to still be on the water pump.
Has it been drained of coolant as of late??
Purge the heater hoses of air
Find out whether there is flow thru the heater hose by disconecting one and seeing it pump out.
Get back to us with more information such as anything been done to it recent like.
Also look in the rad to see turbulance indicating that flow is happening.
Be carefull
I expect the belt to still be on the water pump.
Has it been drained of coolant as of late??
Purge the heater hoses of air
Find out whether there is flow thru the heater hose by disconecting one and seeing it pump out.
Get back to us with more information such as anything been done to it recent like.
Also look in the rad to see turbulance indicating that flow is happening.
Be carefull
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Check water pump and head gaskets. See if coolant in oil. Air in cooling systm. Next to power stearing pump is air blead off valve for cooling systm.
Last edited by mattison; 02-26-06 at 04:53 AM. Reason: No need to quote entire post above.
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it should have a bleeder screw to bleed the air out of the cooling system it probably has air in the system causing the heater to blow cold air, as for the overheating is the cooling fan working should kick on around 230 degrees.
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Replaced waterpump last year and replaced belt Laster year tried to repair water leak with Bars Leak. When replacing thermostat and hoses noticed how brow the wate was. Will flush radiator today and replace with new anti-freeze. How do you purge the system of Air?
Thanks for your help. Got 5 cars, working 2 job and 2 boys in college. I need to save maney when I can. Don't want to ahve to take to the repair shop until all else fails.
Thanks again.
Thanks for your help. Got 5 cars, working 2 job and 2 boys in college. I need to save maney when I can. Don't want to ahve to take to the repair shop until all else fails.
Thanks again.
Originally Posted by frankiee
Sounds to me like you got no flow.
I expect the belt to still be on the water pump.
Has it been drained of coolant as of late??
Purge the heater hoses of air
Find out whether there is flow thru the heater hose by disconecting one and seeing it pump out.
Get back to us with more information such as anything been done to it recent like.
Also look in the rad to see turbulance indicating that flow is happening.
Be carefull
I expect the belt to still be on the water pump.
Has it been drained of coolant as of late??
Purge the heater hoses of air
Find out whether there is flow thru the heater hose by disconecting one and seeing it pump out.
Get back to us with more information such as anything been done to it recent like.
Also look in the rad to see turbulance indicating that flow is happening.
Be carefull
#7
Look for a small screw on top of the thermostat housing. If you have one, that is the bleeder. Open it up when you put in the new coolant and fill the radiator until coolant comes out of the bleeder hole.
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"Will flush radiator today and replace with new anti-freeze"
How about getting one of those plastic things that goes into the top heater hose to flush out the system. Had a problem last summer with an air bubble in the top hose causing strange things to happen. Put a garden hose on to it and flush away. Put it on the hose at the highest point of the hose so air can escape.
Brown water dont sound good. Could be that the rad is blocked up with crud. If you can take the rad out of vehicle then put the garden hose into one end and see how strong it comes out the other end. I live in Canada where it is cold in the winter so it is dangerous to put water in the block for coolant in the winter. But, it is expensive to have antifreeze boil out all over the ground when it heats up. Usually I will try to work with water until I find the problem.
So. I would get something like this
http://doityourself.com/store/6220180.htm
Because I can always use it on my next car also.
I would take the rad out and backflush it.
If it starts leaking after, it is a chance that had to be taken.
I would then flush it out with the device I just put on the top heater hose.
So far this has cost about $10 and hopfully there is no overheating and the rad is not leaking. If the overheating has gone away but the rad is leaking then get another rad. If cant afford it then try the stop leak again.
If it is still overheating and the rad is not blocked and you got all the air out of the system then get back to us. If it is cold and there is water in the system then drain the block and rad to make sure it dont freeze and crack
How about getting one of those plastic things that goes into the top heater hose to flush out the system. Had a problem last summer with an air bubble in the top hose causing strange things to happen. Put a garden hose on to it and flush away. Put it on the hose at the highest point of the hose so air can escape.
Brown water dont sound good. Could be that the rad is blocked up with crud. If you can take the rad out of vehicle then put the garden hose into one end and see how strong it comes out the other end. I live in Canada where it is cold in the winter so it is dangerous to put water in the block for coolant in the winter. But, it is expensive to have antifreeze boil out all over the ground when it heats up. Usually I will try to work with water until I find the problem.
So. I would get something like this
http://doityourself.com/store/6220180.htm
Because I can always use it on my next car also.
I would take the rad out and backflush it.
If it starts leaking after, it is a chance that had to be taken.
I would then flush it out with the device I just put on the top heater hose.
So far this has cost about $10 and hopfully there is no overheating and the rad is not leaking. If the overheating has gone away but the rad is leaking then get another rad. If cant afford it then try the stop leak again.
If it is still overheating and the rad is not blocked and you got all the air out of the system then get back to us. If it is cold and there is water in the system then drain the block and rad to make sure it dont freeze and crack
#9
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brown crud
That brown crud is the stop leak that was put in the system I really doubt you will ever get it all out.I used that stuff one time and till the day I got rid of my truck it was still there it sticks to everything.
Flush with the kit is a good idea.I would use water to see if it works but dont leave it in there overnight or let it stay in there long enough to frezze do it all in one day.Flush ,fill with water drive around if ok drain and put in antifrezze.
Heck just for good measure put on a new cap if you can afford one if not clean the old one.
Flush with the kit is a good idea.I would use water to see if it works but dont leave it in there overnight or let it stay in there long enough to frezze do it all in one day.Flush ,fill with water drive around if ok drain and put in antifrezze.
Heck just for good measure put on a new cap if you can afford one if not clean the old one.
#10
Originally Posted by statjr55
Replaced waterpump last year and replaced belt Laster year tried to repair water leak with Bars Leak.
I would say that's a big part of the problem right there. That stuff causes many headaches.