Blowing the trailer lights fuse

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  #1  
Old 02-25-06, 05:09 PM
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Blowing the trailer lights fuse

I have one 15 amp fuse for my trailer lights on my 2003 Ford Ranger. I hooked the trailer up today - no trailer lights. I found and replaced the blown fuse, but blew it again (And yes, one more time.) The only thing this fuse serves is the trailer lights. I'm trying to move this weekend - any help out there?
Thanks,
SDP in Wisconsin
 
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  #2  
Old 02-25-06, 05:16 PM
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does it blow when the trailer lights are disconnected or only when the trailer lights are connected if only when connected there is probably a short on the trailer wiring somewhere.
 
  #3  
Old 02-25-06, 05:39 PM
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is it your trailer ? have you ever towed it before ? could be wired wrong.
 
  #4  
Old 02-25-06, 05:58 PM
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It's my trailer - haven't used it since last summer (it worked then).
The fuse only blows when the trailer wires are hooked up to the truck. I'll look around underneath for something out of order.
Could a small amount of corrosion on the hitch ball be a factor?
As far as I can tell, the ground wire is still solidly attached to the trailer.
Thanks a lot for the responses.
 
  #5  
Old 02-25-06, 06:08 PM
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corrosion on the ball won't matter
remove the bulbs and check each lug on the trailer connector for continuity to ground (you don't want any)
if that checks out ok, put the bulbs in one at a time. the problem could be one of your light's bulb socket.
check the integrity of your trailer's ground connection

good luck
 
  #6  
Old 02-25-06, 06:32 PM
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Thanks for the advice - I really appreciate it. I'll go out in the morning and do what you suggested.
Thanks again.
 
  #7  
Old 02-26-06, 04:06 AM
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Good morning Flopshot,
Can you tell me what you mean by checking each lug on the trailer connector for continuity to ground? I have to drive about 30 miles to where I left the trailer overnight, and I wanted to get there with all the knowledge my auto-amateur brain can handle. Thanks, have a good day.

"remove the bulbs and check each lug on the trailer connector for continuity to ground (you don't want any)"
 
  #8  
Old 02-26-06, 05:01 AM
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Hi
I am not flopshot but I notice you are on line and likely are in a rush to find answers. So being I just happen to be here drinking coffe I will try to help.
I think what flopshot meant was to use your electrical meter or a continuity meter and touch one of the connections inside the light socket with one of the leads, and the other to the trailer frame (a good bare metal part).
Do both conections in the lite socket. Do it with the power off to the trailer lites.
You should not get the continuity tester to lite.
Or you should not get any flow from the ohmmeter. The ohmmeter should read infinite (the sideways figure 8)
If it reads flow then you have a live wire touching the frame and it would be like taking a live wire and gounding it to the frame. Sparks, smoke, burnt fuses etc.
I will go on line and try to find a pic.
Personally I would go to the auto store and get a new trailer harness for under $10 and take it with me.
Trailer wiring is a pain.
 
  #9  
Old 02-26-06, 05:20 AM
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Looks like you left. Good luck.
http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/23..._tips/a08.html

I got my father the set like tow trucks have. Magnetic base and long wires.
Just because we use trailers in the bush etc. and salt covered roads then let them sit for year behind the barn.
When we go to use them again they often dont work right.
So I got him the portable set for fathers day
I hope the link clears things up a bit
 
  #10  
Old 02-26-06, 05:41 AM
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Thanks Frankiee.
I've been wanting to buy a meter for a long while, and now I have a good opportunity. Electricity, chain saws, and anything under pressure are things I have tried to avoid thus far, but I'm only 33.

The Web site you linked to is very helpful - thank you.
 
  #11  
Old 02-26-06, 10:00 AM
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Talking somewhat off topic

but I had to laugh and add to these:

"Trailer wiring is a pain."
"Just because we use trailers in the bush etc. and salt covered roads then let them sit for year behind the barn. When we go to use them again they often dont work right."


Ever have the damn cows eat the wires? (or packrats) That and brush like you said, don't go well with trailer wiring! How well do those magnets hold? - that is a great idea! Do you remember about what they cost?
 
  #12  
Old 02-26-06, 12:49 PM
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Talking

Bout $60 Canadian I think. Magnets are strong but still let go. We allways have black electrical tape in the glove box.
 
  #13  
Old 02-26-06, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by sdp321
Electricity, chain saws, and anything under pressure are things I have tried to avoid thus far, but I'm only 33.

The Web site you linked to is very helpful - thank you.
you're missing all the fun !
hope you worked everything out. if you have chronic problems with the wiring, try soldering all your connections and using heat shrink tubing. install the bulbs with a coat of dielectric grease and have a bolt welded to the frame for a ground
 
  #14  
Old 02-26-06, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by sdp321
I have one 15 amp fuse for my trailer lights on my 2003 Ford Ranger. I hooked the trailer up today - no trailer lights. I found and replaced the blown fuse, but blew it again (And yes, one more time.) The only thing this fuse serves is the trailer lights. I'm trying to move this weekend - any help out there?
Thanks,
SDP in Wisconsin
If you cant fix you can replace with new wireing. Not that hard to do.Have done my trailer every 6 or 7 years so I know it is ready when I am.
 
  #15  
Old 02-27-06, 04:31 AM
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I never did gain enough time yesterday to troubleshoot the trailer, but I need to do it soon - today, Wednesday, I don't know...
I appreciate the advice this far though - I'll report my findings when I find them.
 
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