1995 Explorer Transmission Problem

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  #1  
Old 04-09-06, 01:52 PM
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1995 Explorer Transmission Problem

I have a 1995 Explorer 4wd with 120,000 miles. I was driving it and all of sudden it started to slow down and then it stopped. After it stopped I turned the truck off and crank it again and tried to put it in drive it would not go and then I tried to put it in another gear and it would not go in any gear. The truck showed no sign that the transmission was about to go or anything it just stopped. I would like to know do anyone have any kind of idea what could be the problem with my truck. Do you think the transmission is gone or what? Any help would be deeply appreciated in advance. TY
 
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  #2  
Old 04-09-06, 07:08 PM
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Exploder trans used to have a problem where the vacuum modulator woud develope a leak and the trans fluid would be sucked into the intake manifold.
Not sure if your truck is old enough to fit that bill, but first i'd check my fluid level. If it's low I'd check the vacuum hoses at the rear of the intake plenum......If the modulator is the culprit, the hoses will be extremely swollen
 
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Old 04-09-06, 08:22 PM
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I did have the fluid level checked and it is full.
 
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Old 04-09-06, 08:26 PM
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A little more desciption of the inital problem might be helpful. When it was slowing down, what other conditions were going on? Engine revving? Engine losing power? Warning lights? Check engine light? Noises? Any other previous problems? The more details the better.
 
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Old 04-09-06, 08:40 PM
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The truck was just going down the road with no problem when this problem came along. The truck was going smoothly with no problem. Yes the check engine has been on for awhile. I had a radio install, but before the radio was install there was no check engine light on.
 
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Old 04-09-06, 08:45 PM
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The check engine light would be a very good place to start even if it's not related to the current problem. There's a chance you could have an electrical problem related to the installation of the radio, but you need to check the cel code for starters. You'll need a scanner unfortunately since it will be OBD-II.
 
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Old 04-09-06, 08:55 PM
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You said I would need to get it scan since it would be OBD-II. So what I would have to do is take it to a shop to have this procedure done or what I need to do. And what is the OBD-II? I know about this lol.
 
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Old 04-10-06, 01:28 AM
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Odb-ii

Since you can't drive it to a parts store (some will do a reading for free), you can either have a shop scan the codes OR buy an OBD-II scanner (roughly $150, but worth it in my opinion, they are now universal for all (most?) cars sold in the US). The scanner allows you to read the error codes stored in the computer of you car (OBD stands for on board diagnostics). The scanner I have tells me what the code means, but there are also places (and manuals) that will tell you what a specific code means (but they seldom tell you how to fix it).
 
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Old 04-10-06, 05:47 AM
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May have misspoke, you're probably OBDI.

http://www.thorssell.net/hbook/eectest.html
http://www.tomco-inc.com/Tech_Tips/ttt6.pdf

If the test procedure is above your DIY ability I'm afraid you're going to need a tow.
 

Last edited by the_tow_guy; 04-10-06 at 06:00 AM.
  #10  
Old 04-10-06, 08:16 AM
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I when outside this morning to check on my vehicle again and when I turned the head light on there is a light that is on that say O/d off If someone could tell me what this mean maybe this could be the problem
 
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Old 04-10-06, 09:39 AM
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OBD II is On Board Diagnostic II (second generation). In 1996 the goverment mandated that all cars sold in the U.S.A. had to be OBD II compliant. However Ford was a bit ahead of the game and they were using it in most of their vehicles by 1995.

The overdrive light is used to output codes and is related to the transmission specifically. I would check all codes for this vehicle to start with. Since the vehicle cannot be driven I would call around and check with the local transmission repair facilities or someone capable in your area and have it towed in there for diagnosis. Ask for the charges involved in advance (I do not charge for scanning my customers cars therefore it is free).

One other thing I may check before I towed it in is to make sure the transfer case is in gear (not neutral). This is not likely but it costs nothing to check and make sure. If the T-case is in neutral it will keep the vehicle from moving at all.

Good Luck,
Jeff
 
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Old 04-10-06, 10:13 AM
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Good thought on the transfer case, Jeff. I actually remember one of our tranny shops mentioning a customer who had his truck towed in and that WAS the problem.

You can turn the O/D Off light "off" by pressing the button on the end of the gearshift lever [think that's where it is].
 
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Old 04-10-06, 04:33 PM
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Here Are The Codes That Came Up After Scan

Here are the codes and the listing that I found in the book that came with the scanner

( 39 ) Transaxle problem: lock-up failed in torque convertor or
convertor bypass clutch not applying property.

( 53 ) Throttle Postition TP sensor- signal voltage is too high
(as if indicating wide-open throttle condition)

( 95 ) Thermactor Air System problem- right (passenger-side
air flow always upstream or Fuel Pump Monitor (FP)
signal - indicates circuit problem
Can someone help me to understand what is going on . Thank
you in advance.
 
  #14  
Old 04-11-06, 03:35 PM
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It is very hard to know for sure and I would, under different circumstances offer to check it out for you. That being said please understand this is only a long distance guess on my part.

I would be suspicious of the pump and there is a way you can check this yourself.
1. With the vehicle shut off pull the transmission dipstick and make a note as to the fluid level.
2. Start the vehicle and recheck the fluid level and see if the level has dropped from the first time you checked it.

If it has dropped the pump is working and I am wrong, if the level does not change then I am correct and the fluid is not being pumped through the system.
If the pump is not working it is time to decide if you are going to keep the vehicle and then call the repair facility of your choice. Repairs in my area normally run $2000.00 for a complete job including installation.

Let me know and I will see if I can be of any further help to you.

Jeff
 
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Old 04-12-06, 05:39 PM
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Red face

I did the test you said to do and the level did not change on the dipstick so I guess you was right. I want to ask another question. I found someone to do the job and he is going to charge me $1375 to do the job. Is this a good offer or do you think I should put that much money into the truck. I love my truck but I do want to be a fool neither lol.Well in other word I do not want to get into debt by getting a new car at this time. My truck has 120,000 miles on it and I believe I can get some more miles out of it before it goes to the graveyard. That is the only problem I have ever had with the truck. Any opinion will be appreciated. Thanks in advance all.
 
  #16  
Old 04-12-06, 06:21 PM
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I ran a search on autotrader.com and came up with an average price of about $4000 for your vehicle. Probably a little high; I would say $3000-4000, so the question is do you want to put $1400 into a vehicle that would only be worth that much when you get through. Among other things, how well you've maintained the rest of the vehicle would be a factor - frequent oil changes and other preventive maintenance. How well does the engine run? Body rust? What you DON'T want to do is throw down $1400 for a tranny repair and then blow the engine two blocks down the road because you've been neglecting your oil changes.

$1400 is probably not a bad price. That's for a complete overhaul with a warranty, right? My guess is that that would be pretty high if all he's going to do is fix the immediate problem. Big question: Is this a reputable garage? References or know people who have used them and been satisfied?

Lots to consider.
 
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