94 Honda Accord 4D turn light problem

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  #1  
Old 05-12-06, 03:31 PM
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94 Honda Accord 4D turn light problem

Recently, turn lights started behaving weird. I hear the tick..tick..tick..noise for a while without indicator and turn light flashing. After 4-5 secs, the lights start flashing also and everything is normal. This behavior is more apparent when I use the turn signal for the first time in the morning. As I use it more and more during the day, this behavior is less apparent i.e. lights start flashing sooner. Also, when I use turn light for the first time in the evening after parking under sun whole day, lights start flashing immediately.

I checked all lights for burned out ones. Everyone looks fine. So, I figured it's the flasher that's malfunctioning.

Couple of questions

1) Is my diagnosis correct ? If not, what else should I look for ?
2) How do I pull the flasher out ? I located it under dashboard, but wasn't able to simply plug it out. Is there anything holding it ?

thanks for your help
 
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  #2  
Old 05-12-06, 06:36 PM
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The ticking is most likely the flasher. And the fact it ticks almost seems like it would be good. Although I am not 100% on this. But it's possible you have power through the flasher, but downstream you lose good connection somewhere with both of the lighting (indicator and and tail lights). You could have a ground going on you somewhere.

The evening/warm day anecdote is...well, for me...I'm not sure how scientifically sound this catch of yours is. Unless of course you have caught this doing this so many times in the described pattern that you are certain. IF this is the case, all the more reason to suspect a poor connection...either in the hot or the grounding, as temperature is probably expanding something to create better contact.

If all 4 bulbs (or more) bulbs are affected by this, I then would be more inclined to believe it is an issue with lack of hot current as opposed to a ground problem.

How to trace down this problem? Well, if this was me, first I'd do what you did and have a look and fiddle a little. Then I'd go to the library and run a copy of my cars electrical system in the Mitchell's reference books.

How to pull a flahser? I believe they just pull out. It may twist and pull out but I have a feeling it just pulls out. I think from my memory they have like 3 spade connectors on them. You may have 2 flashers: One for hazard and one for directionals. My car does. I discovered this when I was looking at the Mitchell's car wiring diagram, and this made me look and find the mysterious 'hidden' flasher. (My problem WAS the flasher.)
 
  #3  
Old 05-13-06, 09:25 AM
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Replacing flasher didn't help

Thanks alot for the advice.

I've replaced flasher with a new one. Didn't help. So, I guess it IS the grounding.

Also, yes, evening/warm day scenario happens everyday.

Yes. All 4 lights behave same way. So, I guess the problem is somewhere in the common part of the circuit. Off to library to learn the circuit.

How do you guys trace the grounds ? Using multimeter and probing around ?

thanks
 
  #4  
Old 05-13-06, 03:57 PM
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Some car parts are grounded right where the metal of the electrical part makes contact with the metal of the vehicle. On a wiring diagram they show a line with a couple of cross lines going through it. On other car electrical parts there could actually be a ground wire.

I am leaning more towards a 12 volt wire issue than a ground, actually, as it is on all the bulbs. You really do need a wiring diagram as car wiring is not an easy trace due to how they wrap a gazillion wires of different colors in the harness..and then where they run each wire to and from is a guessing game.... and then there is what is hidden under the dash, and the places where they run the wires back to the rear lights.

The wiring diagram will show you which color wire is your turn signal circuit for the front and back bulbs and how from where the wire comes and goes. Good luck.

Post back when you or whomever finds where the problem is, pretty please.
 
  #5  
Old 05-13-06, 07:42 PM
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12V wire issue ?

What do you mean by 12V wire issue ? I am totally new to auto DYI. Appreciate more details. thanks in advance.
 
  #6  
Old 05-14-06, 04:09 PM
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Your cars voltage comes from your 12 volt (DC current!) battery/alternator system. The battery is considered 12 volts, but the alternator when running may generate up to about 14.5 volts give or take some, and is regulated to remain in this general voltage ballpark. Only your coil gets stepped-up voltage through a secondary internal wiring coil, like a transformer, (to 30,000 volts or so, which then goes into your distribution system to your plugs as this super high voltage.) But the wiring...lamps, alternator input, blower motor, fan cooling motor, radio, wipers, window and seat motors, cigarette lighter, etc., etc., is all 12 volts.

So...the 12 volt issue means that you have lost the 12 volt juice somewheres along the pathway to your directional bulbs. A wiring schematic could realy help you, as I think I suggested.
 
  #7  
Old 05-15-06, 03:36 PM
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May be combo switch ?

Reading more on the internet, it turns out it could be combo switch also. People experienced various delays in lights coming on with older Hondas. Basically, it looks like the lubricant used in that switch gains viscosity with age and stiffens and fails to make contact. With colder weather, their problem was worse than hot weather.

Any thoughts ? May be I'll try replacing that as well.
 
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Old 05-15-06, 05:08 PM
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I'm not familiar with such a switch. Keep us updated. I like learning as well as dishing it out. I wonder what the function of a "combo switch" is?
 
  #9  
Old 05-15-06, 05:32 PM
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Combination light switch

What I am talking about is the switch that is on the steering mount at the end of the turn signal lever.
 

Last edited by sirivr; 05-15-06 at 05:43 PM.
  #10  
Old 05-15-06, 05:39 PM
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Well, if that is the case...then a wiring schematic should allow you, with the wires color coded, to find the wire(s) that exit the turn signal to see if you have lost current there. Then you would know.
 
  #11  
Old 05-21-06, 12:54 PM
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It does look like combination switch problem

I opened up around steering this wknd. There is no voltage at the output of turn signal switch during the period when the flasher ticks but lights don't blink. Voltage (~10.5V) comes up at the output after a few secs and hence the lights start flashing. (There is always voltage (~7.5V) at the input to the switch as long as the ignition is on. )

However, I am not able to pull out that switch easily. Chilterns manual says just remove switch mounting screws, disconnect and remove the assembly. Any more detail on what exactly needs to be done to remove the combination switch on '94 Accord ?

thanks
 
  #12  
Old 05-26-06, 02:20 PM
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94 Honda Accord 4D turn light problem

I have the same problem with my 1993 accord. Was your fixed? What did it take to complete the work?
Bob
 
  #13  
Old 05-26-06, 02:52 PM
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Stick stuck

I am still stuck at my last post i.e. not able to remove the light switch. Also, I am not able to find that light switch in stock at parts stores. AutoZone has one for $100 special order. I feel it should be around $20-$50. Will shop around some more, especially at dealers. May be if we see the new one, we'll get some idea on how to remove the old one ;-)

Keep me posted about your status too.
 
  #14  
Old 05-26-06, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by sirivr
I opened up around steering this wknd. There is no voltage at the output of turn signal switch during the period when the flasher ticks but lights don't blink. Voltage (~10.5V) comes up at the output after a few secs and hence the lights start flashing. (There is always voltage (~7.5V) at the input to the switch as long as the ignition is on. )

However, I am not able to pull out that switch easily. Chilterns manual says just remove switch mounting screws, disconnect and remove the assembly. Any more detail on what exactly needs to be done to remove the combination switch on '94 Accord ?

thanks
I wonder why the input is at 7.5 volts?

Low input voltages can fall off if on that same circuit there is a big draw. Do you have everything else off except for the igniton key to "on" and testing the flasher? During the down time of the flash, when no flashing is going on, is it still 7.5 volts? Or does it rebound between flashes to your 10.5 volt reading. (You see, your 10.5 volt reading may be on the low side because your meter is off some. Try testing the battery posts themselves to see if you get 10.5 volts across the posts as well.
 
  #15  
Old 06-22-06, 12:32 PM
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Light Switch replaced finally !

Now everything works fine. As diagnised earlier, it IS the light switch that had gone bad. I was able to open up the covers around steering, but wasn't able to pull out the switch itself (something is holding it in its place apart from the screws). I didn't want to break that plastic stuff and took it to the mechanic. He charged 40 bucks plus parts (30 bucks).

Thanks everyone for your advice.
 
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