rounded lug nuts

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Old 05-12-06, 08:26 PM
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rounded lug nuts

I have a 93 jeep grand cherokee. I developed a flat tire the other day. I tried to change it but found one of the lug nuts were rounded off. the lugs are recessed in the rim. I was going to try drilling the nut and stud out. any suggestions? thanks
 
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Old 05-12-06, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by cherokee6036
I have a 93 jeep grand cherokee. I developed a flat tire the other day. I tried to change it but found one of the lug nuts were rounded off. the lugs are recessed in the rim. I was going to try drilling the nut and stud out. any suggestions? thanks


Is it only one lugnut ? spray thread with wd-40 or gunk grease first, small chisel and a hammer usually work if you hit nut in the right place, try to force a slightly smaller size socket onto nut with a hammer then use ratchet to drive it out, check out your local Sears hardware store they have special tools for cases like this.
 
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Old 05-13-06, 06:12 AM
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We have to tow cars fairly often where the owner has either rounded off a nut or lost the locking adapter. The better tire stores have the female easy-out to get them off (requires a tow to the store, of course ).
 
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Old 05-13-06, 06:50 AM
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RE: Rounded lug nuts

lou Bazooka: good idea on the wd-40 and the chisel,there's only one problem. the lug nut covers the whole stud so i don't think the grease would get into the theads. chisel might work but the space between the lug nut and the rim are really close. I could chisel the front of it but i couldn't be able to get down the side of it.
 
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Old 05-13-06, 04:31 PM
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Grind a new hex pattern into the lug nut with a grinder tool, to where you can slip or force on, as suggested, the next size socket down.

I am wondering if one of those 'gator grip' (?) (or whatever invention tool that is that has those multitude of needles in the socket head that conform to the shape of the nut) would work if you slipped that on first, and then used a pipe wrench on the shaft of that tool once it got out beyond the rim/tire that is in your way. Also, heating it up with a propane torch first might help. And then quickly, while it is still hot, try doing what I suggest.

When I use a torch like this...what I usually do is have a fire extinguisher at my side. Then I heat it up just a little first and then spray a rust penetrating spray on it while it is warm/somewhat expanded, to let it get in the threads. The key is that you always want to heat up the nut. Do not heat up the bolt. When you heat the nut, the outside AND the inside of the nut get bigger (which is what you want. You do NOT want the bolt getting bigger!). Then I apply more heat to bubble in the penetrant. More spray, etc. Then after this coaxing...then I go for it. I wipe off any excess spray. Caution: Only spray it carefully at the bolt/nut to avoid flamable liquid from getting everywhere. You may cause a little fire in the area of what you sprayed, but usually it is just confined to the area. (But that is why the fire extinguisher is handy, and some rags for snuffing, and prepared for use. But I have never had to use one...yet.) I use this method in various lines of work when dealing with seized on parts...especially plumbing parts in houses.
 
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Old 05-14-06, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by cherokee6036
lou Bazooka: good idea on the wd-40 and the chisel,there's only one problem. the lug nut covers the whole stud so i don't think the grease would get into the theads. chisel might work but the space between the lug nut and the rim are really close. I could chisel the front of it but i couldn't be able to get down the side of it.


Use chisel to try to turn lugnut counterclockwise so you can take it out, it only takes one or two lucky blows to get nut to turn a little then use pliers or any tool to loosen it.
You mean space between wheel and nut, the rim is " the circular outer part of the wheel furthest form axle ".

http://dictionary.reference.com/search?q=rim
 
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