1998 mazda 626

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  #1  
Old 05-21-06, 09:59 AM
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1998 mazda 626

Couple problems I need help with. When making a sharp turn like turning into a driveway or starting a turn after stopping there is a knocking sound coming from the driverside wheel. Does not knock any other time. Second, I keep replacing the plugs in this thing but nothing seems to work. The car still runs rough, doesn't take off like it should, kind of jumps and hesitates. Any ideas?
 
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Old 05-22-06, 04:32 AM
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Could be a dirty air filter try changing the air filter also could be its not getting enough fuel check the fuel filter also when was the last time the oil and oil filter were changed
 
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Old 05-22-06, 05:33 AM
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Depending on the type of knocking sound it is making, possible worn cv joint. Usually described as ticking or clicking.
 
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Old 05-22-06, 04:32 PM
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See if the CV joint rubber boot, that is located in more from the inside of the wheel, has a rip in it. Turn your wheel all the way to the right, and lay down by the wheel and check it out.

If so, grit got in there and caused more rapid wear. I had this happen to me. And after spending the dollars to repair a couple on another vehicle, and not caring to spend more on the second vehicle, I used a grease gun and injected the boot full of grease. No more clunk...for months!...until the car broke down in another unrelated way and I had to get trid of the vehicle.

Worth a shot, if you see a tear...to see if greasing it makes the clunking go away.
 
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Old 05-23-06, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by the_tow_guy
Depending on the type of knocking sound it is making, possible worn cv joint. Usually described as ticking or clicking.
You're right on target with the ticking or clicking sound. Much more descriptive than knocking. I'll have it looked at. Thanks.
 
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Old 05-23-06, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by DaVeBoy
See if the CV joint rubber boot, that is located in more from the inside of the wheel, has a rip in it. Turn your wheel all the way to the right, and lay down by the wheel and check it out.

If so, grit got in there and caused more rapid wear. I had this happen to me. And after spending the dollars to repair a couple on another vehicle, and not caring to spend more on the second vehicle, I used a grease gun and injected the boot full of grease. No more clunk...for months!...until the car broke down in another unrelated way and I had to get trid of the vehicle.

Worth a shot, if you see a tear...to see if greasing it makes the clunking go away.
will check it out. Thanks.
 
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Old 05-23-06, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by lexmarks567
Could be a dirty air filter try changing the air filter also could be its not getting enough fuel check the fuel filter also when was the last time the oil and oil filter were changed
oil and filter change 6 weeks ago. Checking the others. Thanks.
 
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Old 05-23-06, 09:36 PM
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Have you tried new spark plug wires?
 
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Old 05-24-06, 04:29 AM
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If it turns out to be a cv, Rayn, do yourself a favor and have both sides replaced (unless you're planning on getting rid of it soon).
 
  #10  
Old 05-24-06, 08:03 AM
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vacuum leak

What engine?
Tranny?
How many miles?
What is the history? Did you buy it like this or is this a new condition? If you bought it like this, someone did a crappy valve job, timing belt change or …and you must check everything.

All hoses good and tight? This is ALL HOSES. Check breather hose and PCV valve(it rattles when shaken?) and grommet is tight? Make sure hoses to canister are good too.

Check the air duct from your maf to the throttle body for cracks. Take if off and closely exam in full sunlight. Cracks can open and close with engine vibration and allow in unmetered air. The effects will be most noticeable at idle. Carefully hose off the MAF wire with brake parts cleaner only if you find the duct to be really covered with oil.

Spray carb cleaner at all intake manifold joints with engine running. If idle changes you have found a leak. With this method, you can prove a leak but cannot disprove a leak, since you cannot get to all joints or at all joints at once.

If idle speed is adjustable (see sticker), make sure someone did not adjust too low (to save gas).

If very high mileage the throttle valve could be worn.

This is unlikely, so put if far down on the list: stuck open EGR valve.

Does it only run poorly at idle and stumble when moving off? Do you notice less power on the road? Climb hills in third when fourth did fine before? Wide-open throttle at 45 mph?

What do the plugs look like when you take them out? If one or two look very different than the other two (or four), let us know.

If it is a ’98 and idles poorly, you should be getting a check engine light. Make sure the light comes on when you turn the key to run before proceeding to start. If you have no CEL get, the codes read and write back.

Check for spark/gas at each cyl. With engine running, pull each plug wire off the plug about ¼-1/2 inch. The snapping sound (the spark jumping the gap) should sound the same for all. If not, you have isolated a bad plug, wire, cap or rotor. After doing this quickly ground the plug wire to a long bolt. The engine should run worse, since that cylinder is now without spark. If eliminating spark from one cylinder does NOT make it run worse, suspect that injector or compression and again compare the plugs.

If the injector plugs are accessible, you could unplug them one at a time with the engine running to isolate a bad injector or low compression(most likely) burned exhaust valve. I won't get started on the non-use of hydraulic lifters.

I have to go; my boss is not as sympathetic or interested.
 
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