95 Neon hot-weather stalling

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Old 05-31-06, 06:04 AM
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95 Neon hot-weather stalling

After driving for 1/2 hour or so when the weather is fairly hot, my 95 Neon stalls. It sometimes hitches first, but once I hit the brakes (like at a stop sign or red light), it sputters and hitches and eventually dies. I can usually pull over and turn it off. Once it sits for 1/2 hour or so it goes again, no problem.

The temperature gauge never goes to even halfway, there are no weird smells. The "check engine" light sometimes comes on first, but that happens a lot and I've been told by two mechanics that it's just a sensor thing and that I should put black electrical tape over it so I don't get stressed!

This hot-weather stalling started last summer and the mechanic I usually go to has checked it at least twice and can't figure it out. This is because by the time I can actually GET the car to his shop, it's cooled down...grrr...

I would really like some suggestions to pass on to him. I'd love to go to another mechanic or a dealer, but this guy runs a tab for me and right now I can't afford car repairs.

Any help/suggestions at all would be appreciated!!
 
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Old 05-31-06, 08:06 AM
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need to know what codes are stored in the computer there is alot of sensors on a vehilce some that will not cause the problems you describe and some that will if there is not any codes that could possibly lead you into the right direction such as a crank or cam sensor code then there is not much a shop can do without seeing the vehicle act up.
 
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Old 05-31-06, 08:54 AM
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Bejay ~ Thanks for your reply. I forgot to mention that the codes DON'T work!! Do you mean that without the codes working, it could be the cam or crank sensor, or there's really no way to tell? The problem with the mechanic actually having the problem happen is that it needs to be driven for awhile (at least an hour or so). Aargh!!
 
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Old 05-31-06, 09:07 AM
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if the check engine light comes on it means the computer has detected a problem and should store a code that can be read with a scanner might try autozone or another shop to see if they can read the codes it should have code or codes stored in the computer if the check engine light has been on recently whether the trouble code or codes stored may be related to your problem or it may not, but it does give you a starting point or may possibly lead you to a faulty sensor that is causing the problem.
 
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Old 05-31-06, 12:48 PM
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Sounds like a temp sensor

Sounds like a temperature sensor. When it gets hot, if the sensor "thinks" the engine is still cold, it will essentially "choke" (too much gas) the engine and can kill it. The fact that you can start it again with no problem a while later backs that up even more.

It is a pre-ODB II required car, so you may actually be able to pull a code by shorting a connection from the computer and counting light flashes (you would need the manual to see how to do it). I am not sure how long or which codes the older computers locked in either.

A temp sensor is not too expensive and, at least on some cars, is pretty easy to change yourself.
 
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Old 05-31-06, 01:49 PM
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on older chrysler vehicles cycling the key on and off 3 times and leaving it in the on position would allow the check engine light to flash any codes however it is hard to read as it does it very fast and only once.
this vehicle is probably obd 2 compliant even though it is a 95 alot of vehicles were obd 2 compliant by 95 so you will probably need a scanner to retrieve codes.
 
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Old 05-31-06, 05:48 PM
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Is the behavior truly a hot- weather- only condition problem, or a hot engine condition ?
 
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Old 06-01-06, 04:36 AM
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It's hot-weather only...I'm going to take your suggestions to my mechanic and see if he's checked out all of this stuff. He probably won't be too pleased to have a chick give him ideas about how to do his job, but it's MY car and I need it fixed!!

Thanks for all of your ideas ~ keep 'em comin'!!
 
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Old 06-01-06, 06:47 AM
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Post on the Sunbird

See my last (6/1/06 ~9:30) post for the Sunbird problems. It sounds like you are getting too much gas (not enough air) at idle which causes the car to flood out. While a temp sensor is not the only thing that can cause this, it is one that I have seen a few times cause similar problems. It is a cheap part (normally) and easy to install (normally).

There are other things that can cause the car to flood out, but they would more than likely not be dependent on temperature.

One thing to try if it does it again. Try to start it with the pedal to the floor and hold it (like you would if you flooded it). DO NOT PUMP IT, HOLD IT DOWN (pumping will only make the problem worse). You may have to crank for a while (do not run the battery down, some cars are easier to start flooded than others), even if it does not start, you should notice it "tries" to start more than if you try to start it without touching the pedal while it is hot.
 
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Old 06-05-06, 05:13 AM
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One more question...does anybody have any idea how much a temperature sensor would cost, and how long the repairs would take? I can't get hold of my mechanic and I'm trying to figure out what kind of cost I might be looking at for repairs elsewhere.

I'm hesitant to call around because I've run into issues in the past...sometimes girls get higher estimates because "they don't know any better" (prime example: me). I don't mean to offend any mechanics out there; I'm sure not everybody's like that, but that's been my experience.
 
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Old 06-05-06, 05:30 AM
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Cost and troubleshooting

First off, I suggest the temp sensor as a possible cause. It is not something that is real hard to troubleshoot (a good mechanic should be able to do it easily).

Past experience, a sensor should be in the vicinity of 20 dollars and about an hour of labor (or less) to replace.

You did mention something about the temperature gauge not going to where it is expected, that may be a clue if the same sensor that controls is used for indication. It could also mean that your thermostat is stuck open (would probably not cause the hot stalling problems).
 
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Old 06-05-06, 11:47 AM
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Here's what the mechanics have said...it could be any of those things, but they don't want to start replacing parts if they don't need to. Sooooo...I'm going to take it to my regular guy (a backyard mechanic) on a really hot day, start it and walk away. Once it stalls out, he can figure it out!!

Thanks for all your help. I'll fill you in on the final result (whenever he gets back from his vacation)!!
 
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Old 06-10-06, 06:17 AM
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One more question...

Fortunately (I can't believe I'm saying that!), our weather has been sucky lately ~ cold and rainy, so the hot-weather stalling issue isn't a problem. But my battery now is. The car won't start unless I get a boost. Then it's fine to drive, till I turn off the engine! The battery takes a charge but won't hold it. Apparently the generator is working (this is what somebody told me; I'm no mechanic, obviously!). I'm having the battery replaced (a free one from a friend, woohoo), so hopefully that will fix that problem. My question is...could these two issues be related, or is this the typical bad luck that I have??
 
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Old 06-11-06, 09:09 PM
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dont really think the 2 different problems would be related.
 
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Old 06-12-06, 07:20 AM
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I was thinking battery the whole time reading this thread. If you don't have a good connection, the heat can expand things and you will lose it. Maybe replacing the battery will fix the loose connection or maybe the cables going to the block or elsewhere is where there is a bad connection.
 
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Old 06-12-06, 08:20 AM
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Battery?

While there could be a relationship, I would doubt very much if the battery fixed your stalling issue.

If it were a battery problem, I would not expect the car to turn over after it stalls.
 
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Old 06-12-06, 12:35 PM
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Update...my nephew, who, ironically, is not a mechanic, got the proper codes...it indicated that the problem is a MAP sensor. He suggested that I have the vacuum lines checked to make sure that that's not the problem, then have the MAP sensor replaced. Since this is all Greek to me, does any of it ring true to those of you who understand this stuff? By the way, I checked around for prices on MAP sensors...the first price I got was $200 and the last was $27!!
 
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