OBDII Codes P0125 P1150 P1155

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  #1  
Old 06-26-06, 08:16 PM
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Exclamation OBDII Codes P0125 P1150 P1155

I have a 1999 Toyota Solara with 79000 miles and just got my first check engine light. OBDII Scan Codes are P0125 P1150 P1155 ( with P1153 pending ). Only thing I did recently was to top off my gas tank and then leave the car sitting in the hot son for several days with a very full tank.
Should I clear the codes and see if they reappear?
Any help on how to proceed would be greatly appreciated.
 
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  #2  
Old 06-26-06, 08:21 PM
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I would clear them.

There is a few there that I am sure will come back if there really is a problem.

Its always good to clear them and see what comes back again then you know you have a problem, its like a verfication.

Plus some of those codes could have been sitting there with the light off. We want to know the newest one for sure.

None have to do with gas cap off.
 
  #3  
Old 06-27-06, 12:47 PM
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Came right back

Originally Posted by hotrodder89
I would clear them.

There is a few there that I am sure will come back if there really is a problem.

Its always good to clear them and see what comes back again then you know you have a problem, its like a verfication.

Plus some of those codes could have been sitting there with the light off. We want to know the newest one for sure.

None have to do with gas cap off.
I cleared the codes but most came back after driving about 2 miles. Guess I'll make an appointment with the Toyota dealer.
 
  #4  
Old 06-27-06, 12:55 PM
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Clear #1 P0125 P1155 & Clear #2 P0125 P1153 P1155

Cleared the codes twice:
Clear #1 P0125 P1155 after 2 or 3 miles
Clear #2 P0125 P1153 P1155 after about 25 miles
 
  #5  
Old 06-27-06, 01:13 PM
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that would be the best way to go about this, it appears to me that one thing can be causing the other codes. The dealer will test a few things and say what part is causing.

One of your O2's may be bad since the code is a slow response. Slow responses are pretty safe to say the O2 is shot.


Let me explain something about slow response to O2 sensors.

They may say to change just the one or both. The ecu is programmed to compare the cycles of the O2 before the catalysts and after. If the frequency of these cycles is off by such tolerance coded in the ecu it will say hay one of these guys is slacking. But if both were being slow and then one got really slow, you will see this code reappear when a faster newer o2 is replaced next to older slow one because once again they will not be in sync. When I say frequency I mean the voltage the O2 puts out looks like a sine wave offset on dc, the signal is ac coupled(dc offset filtered out) and the sine waves frequency corresponds to engine rpm.

So don't be surprised if they recommend replacing both o2's for this one, they are just covering them selves from a come back.

The other code would require some testing to before I would deem the part in mind bad.
 

Last edited by hotrodder89; 06-27-06 at 01:31 PM.
  #6  
Old 06-27-06, 01:16 PM
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If you would take the codes for face value

They would be replace o2 sensors and coolant temp sensor.

But the combination of them would make me look more into testing certain things first.
 
  #7  
Old 06-27-06, 01:20 PM
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The 1155 is pretty close to instant when you start since it is a primitive on/off signal the ecu gets back, there is a few tricks to save parts in designing circuits and monitoring things so this one can vary.

The 1153 needs driving time for the ecu to get enought samples after the ecu goes to close loop fuel management.

The p0125 would also be instant because of the way the signal is buffered in the ecu for protection and better self diagnosis. The signal is sampled from a voltage divider and buffered with a voltage follower usually rather than right off the sensor. This is if the circuit is open it will read 5V usually most manufacturers, and if the circtuit gets shorted to ground you will not burn anything up becuase the current is being limited by the voltage divider. Which the ecu will then pick it up as pretty close 5Vdc which means this out is high becuase there is a short in the circuit. So the problem is instantly noticed and flagged. Don't expect explanations like this from the shop, only people who have aided in designing ecu's would know this. The insides of the ecu's are magic boxes to all autoshops and dealers.
 

Last edited by hotrodder89; 06-27-06 at 01:33 PM.
  #8  
Old 06-27-06, 02:13 PM
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Codes

The 2 115X codes are for the A/F sensor.

Try this link for the P0125 code.

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...el-control.php

My gut tells me they are related (I am not an expert, seek a second opinion, but since you are getting multiple A/F sensor codes, I would look there, however, if you thermostat messed up, I suppose the temp could cause problems in both ckts.)
 
  #9  
Old 06-27-06, 02:23 PM
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They are still monitoring before and after the cat, thats how the computer diagnosis a bad catalyst. A/F typically refers to lambda sensor. there are few different kinds of lambda sensors but doesn't have to be a lambda sensor; some will have both narrow and wideband output. either way the computer is taking samples to compare and what it is comparing wether it be the one after the cat or timed out when the effect should take place with a certain rpm after the fuel is changed.

To properly diagnose this further testing is needed with some one who has access to more information than I do.
 
  #10  
Old 07-08-06, 01:26 PM
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Replaced O2 sensor

Toyota replaced the A/F sensor (and the exhaust manifold [actually converter sub-assy] it was "frozen" to). Lucky I still had insurance so it only cost me $250. So far have no pending codes.
 
  #11  
Old 07-08-06, 10:56 PM
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There is a Technical Service Bulletin that may apply to you if your vehicle was produced before VIN: 2T1CF22P*XC104577.

Some Solaras may produce those DTC's...caused by an "open" or poor connection in the A/F heater circuit.

The repair procedure (since you aren't under warranty any more) is:

1. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.
2. Remove relay block #2 from front of battery bracket.
3. Remove A/F heater relay and bottom cover of relay block.
4. Secure pin terminals #1 and #2 in relay block.
5. Reinstall relay, bottom cover, relay block and battery terminal.
6. Confirm proper operation of A/F heater relay circuit.

Just FYI...may not be applicable to you.
 
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