Cooling System - Voyager
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 3
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Cooling System - Voyager
1992 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE 3.3/ no ABS/ FWD/ AC/ TOW Package.
33 mile drive at about 75-80 mph I stopped at a stop light and the coolant started to boil over. Looked under the hood and coolant fan and ac Fan was not engage.
I'm just at the start of the trouble shooting.
Right now I have the fan relay out and a jumper wire from hot to 900 ohm lead (think it is a gray and a black/green wire.)
Have a new temp sending unit. I will install new part later today.
Any places I should look at first before I start?
Thanks
33 mile drive at about 75-80 mph I stopped at a stop light and the coolant started to boil over. Looked under the hood and coolant fan and ac Fan was not engage.
I'm just at the start of the trouble shooting.
Right now I have the fan relay out and a jumper wire from hot to 900 ohm lead (think it is a gray and a black/green wire.)
Have a new temp sending unit. I will install new part later today.
Any places I should look at first before I start?
Thanks
#2
Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,489
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
check your fusible links if the fan doesnt work even with the a/c on you can pretty much assume the coolant sensor is not causing the problem.
i suppose the fan runs with it jumpered unsure of what you mean by 900 ohm lead.
i suppose the fan runs with it jumpered unsure of what you mean by 900 ohm lead.
#3
I would start at the fan...
disconnect the wiring harness connector at the fan and use two jumper wires to connect it to a 12v battery. This will let you know if the fan works period.
If it doesn't work try the relay next. Replace it with a known good relay.
I would check the coolant temperature sensor next...
If all is well up to this point you are probably looking at either a wiring problem or a computer problem.
disconnect the wiring harness connector at the fan and use two jumper wires to connect it to a 12v battery. This will let you know if the fan works period.
If it doesn't work try the relay next. Replace it with a known good relay.
I would check the coolant temperature sensor next...
If all is well up to this point you are probably looking at either a wiring problem or a computer problem.
#5
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 3
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the input:
Here is today’s update:
Made sure all fans worked ( ac, radiator fan) all worked fine.
Replaced coolant temperature sensor, Thermostat.
Reinstalled old fan relay, and started car. This should be a happy ending.
BUT..........................
It was run for about 5-10 min at 2000 rpm’s, with out the radiator cap on, (ASC tech said this was to see If the water was moving through the new thermostat) the temp gage moved to the halfway point and stayed. The water soon overflowed from the cap opening. I then replaced the radiator cap and soon started to see steam flowing from the radiator. A closer look reviled that the steam was not coming form the radiator tank. An even closer look showed a split seam, at the top and bottom radiator tanks. The fan never kicked on.
Went to the fan relay and removed it once more jumpered the hot (gray) to the following low side (900 ohm), high side (10000 ohm), ground to see if the fan would run. No joy. This did work earlier.
Correct me if I’m wrong. But the water should move down not up? And the flow of water should be from water pump to lower radiator to upper radiator to thermostat to coolant temperature sensor to water pump?
I went a looked at a water pump and found this to be very small blades.
Is it possible that the water pump is out? And this is causing the water to not cycle?
Is it possible that the radiator is clogged and not allowing the water to cycle?
And where on earth is the fusible links? Not even ALLdata has this listed?
What dose the fusible links do, and what else should I be looking at?
Ordering a new radiator tank any ideas as to where I can get a cheep, cheep, cheep, radiator at?
I read in alldata the relay has a high side and a low side. This is controlled by something that is has a 900 and 10000 ohm resister bank. And as the temp rises it will switch from the low (cold 900 ohm) to the high (hot 10000 ohm).
sorry this is long but i really need to find out what is going on. hope all this info will help in some way.
thanks
Here is today’s update:
Made sure all fans worked ( ac, radiator fan) all worked fine.
Replaced coolant temperature sensor, Thermostat.
Reinstalled old fan relay, and started car. This should be a happy ending.
BUT..........................
It was run for about 5-10 min at 2000 rpm’s, with out the radiator cap on, (ASC tech said this was to see If the water was moving through the new thermostat) the temp gage moved to the halfway point and stayed. The water soon overflowed from the cap opening. I then replaced the radiator cap and soon started to see steam flowing from the radiator. A closer look reviled that the steam was not coming form the radiator tank. An even closer look showed a split seam, at the top and bottom radiator tanks. The fan never kicked on.
Went to the fan relay and removed it once more jumpered the hot (gray) to the following low side (900 ohm), high side (10000 ohm), ground to see if the fan would run. No joy. This did work earlier.
Correct me if I’m wrong. But the water should move down not up? And the flow of water should be from water pump to lower radiator to upper radiator to thermostat to coolant temperature sensor to water pump?
I went a looked at a water pump and found this to be very small blades.
Is it possible that the water pump is out? And this is causing the water to not cycle?
Is it possible that the radiator is clogged and not allowing the water to cycle?
And where on earth is the fusible links? Not even ALLdata has this listed?
What dose the fusible links do, and what else should I be looking at?
Ordering a new radiator tank any ideas as to where I can get a cheep, cheep, cheep, radiator at?
I read in alldata the relay has a high side and a low side. This is controlled by something that is has a 900 and 10000 ohm resister bank. And as the temp rises it will switch from the low (cold 900 ohm) to the high (hot 10000 ohm).
sorry this is long but i really need to find out what is going on. hope all this info will help in some way.
thanks
#6
Just checking your flow description: water starts at radiator, flows to pump via lower hose, through block etc to outlet (normally where the thermostat is housed) and back to radiator via upper hose.
Possible the pump is bad; have been known to have the blades corroded right off.
Yes, radiator could be clogged. Also thermostat could be installed backwards.
Can't help you with the fusible link location, but it will generally be in the main hot off the battery. It serves as a safety "fuse" for the entire electrical system, especially the wiring between the battery and the main fuse panel.
Got my last radiator here: www.radiators.com.
Just be aware that when you are "chatting", you're actually talking to their computer.
Possible the pump is bad; have been known to have the blades corroded right off.
Yes, radiator could be clogged. Also thermostat could be installed backwards.
Can't help you with the fusible link location, but it will generally be in the main hot off the battery. It serves as a safety "fuse" for the entire electrical system, especially the wiring between the battery and the main fuse panel.
Got my last radiator here: www.radiators.com.
Just be aware that when you are "chatting", you're actually talking to their computer.
#7
Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,489
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
well I would start with a radiater seeing how its leaking just call around local parts stores and radiater shops you can usually find them fairly reasonable priced.
it is unlikely that the water pump is bad due to the fins corroding it is common for them to leak when they go out and my guess is its probably been replaced before on this vehicle as they are not generally long lasting on the 3.3l.
you need to do some testing on the fan to see what is wrong a voltmeter or test light would help to test it there is a link below to autozones website with wiring diagrams should check out.
http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker...3d8010cca4.jsp
should check out fig 29 and 33, from your description it sounds like fig 33 will be close to right even though its for a 93 as the 92 doesnt show high and low speed fan.
the gray wire at the low and high speed relay should be hot at all times if no power would suspect a blown fusible link.
it is unlikely that the water pump is bad due to the fins corroding it is common for them to leak when they go out and my guess is its probably been replaced before on this vehicle as they are not generally long lasting on the 3.3l.
you need to do some testing on the fan to see what is wrong a voltmeter or test light would help to test it there is a link below to autozones website with wiring diagrams should check out.
http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker...3d8010cca4.jsp
should check out fig 29 and 33, from your description it sounds like fig 33 will be close to right even though its for a 93 as the 92 doesnt show high and low speed fan.
the gray wire at the low and high speed relay should be hot at all times if no power would suspect a blown fusible link.
#8
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 3
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
problem fixed thanks
the_tow_guy, bejay:
Thanks for all your help on this issue. it turned out to be a bad radiator. When i pulled it out a lot of sediment came out and very little water. this was keeping the water from circulating so the van never thought it was hot. This was a first for me.
Thanks you all very much.
till next time....
Thanks for all your help on this issue. it turned out to be a bad radiator. When i pulled it out a lot of sediment came out and very little water. this was keeping the water from circulating so the van never thought it was hot. This was a first for me.
Thanks you all very much.
till next time....