91 sunbird flooding out

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  #1  
Old 07-02-06, 04:33 PM
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91 sunbird flooding out

When I run my 91 sunbird for a few minutes, long enough to get it heated up, then shut it off, then try to restart, it acts as though it is flooded. Sometimes wont start, when it does it blows smoke, the engine races for a few minutes, then it settles down. If I wait several minutes 20 or so between starts, it seems fine. Anyone know what causes this? It has new plugs, wires, rotor, dist cap.
 
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  #2  
Old 07-02-06, 04:50 PM
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But what happens if you just drive thse car and park it somewhere as you would under normal circumstances, and come back out and try to start it? Does it start THEN?

What I'm trying to find out is if your problem is just doing this when you do this un-normal act of shutting off the car and restarting it right away. (albeit a car should normally be able to do this)

Will this problem occur if you run the car after it is cold for just a few seconds and then try to restart it?...as opposed to running it until it fully warms up, then shutting it off and trying to restart it?

Have you ever tried to put your foot to the floor when restarting it, when this problem surfaces, to see if it starts then? And perhaps if it starts when doing this, the car won't smoke as much either.

You might have some condition that when the car is in the act of shutting off, a lot of fuel is being drawn into the cylinders. And because you try to start it agian so quickly before some of the gas can evaporate, that you have this hard-start problem.

I'm sure there could be a host of problems causing this problem of yours, but I am curious that if you try what I said, to report back here and let us know the outcome.

Oh...and what kind of rpm idle speed do you have while in park, at the time you shut off the key? If the idle is too high you could probably be drawing into the cylinders a lot of fuel at shut off. Which leads me to think of another experiment: Try shutting off your engine while your foot is on the brake in "drive", and then restart it and see what happens.
 
  #3  
Old 07-02-06, 04:59 PM
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Yes if i turn off the car, run inside lets say a convenience store, then come out, I do have the problem. It seems I must wait 10 to 20 minutes before trying it again.

Yes, if I step all the way on the accelerator, it does start, but smokes & sputters, then runs at high rpm a few minutes before settling down.

This tell you anything?
 
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Old 07-02-06, 05:03 PM
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Tach rpm speed request and also the test requested in last paragraph.

Does the engine run good down the road? What kidn of gas mileage are you gettign and have you done any comparisons now as compared to before you were having this problem?

I'm also trying to see, by these questions, if your fresh air is being restricted somehow...since throttle body (I presume) injection doesn't have a choke on the carb, per se.
 
  #5  
Old 07-02-06, 05:21 PM
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I just tried it, turning off the ignition while in drive, and it still had trouble starting. In fact will not start unless I floor it, then it starts, sputters, smokes then races. No, I dont have a tach on the dash. But I would say the idle speed in park seems pretty normal just before turning it off.
 
  #6  
Old 07-02-06, 05:24 PM
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Going down the road, the engine sounds fine, but the check engine light comes on intermittently. (At least every 5 minutes or so) Oil is full. Not sure about your gas mileage question. My daughter is the main driver, and she couldn't tell me.
 
  #7  
Old 07-02-06, 05:26 PM
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By the way, the air filter is new also.
 
  #8  
Old 07-02-06, 05:34 PM
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Ok. Now for the tough questions;

What size engine?
Is it throttle body injection or individual injectors?
 
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Old 07-02-06, 05:48 PM
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Lightbulb

pull out one spark plug and see if its sooted black
 
  #10  
Old 07-02-06, 08:03 PM
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It is a 2.0L 4 cyl engine. I don't know the answer to the injector question.

Yes the brand new spark plug is already covered in black soot.
 
  #11  
Old 07-02-06, 08:43 PM
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I suspect that the injectors or throttle body is leaking fuel after you shut it off. Both systems use pressurized fuel and if they do not close completely, they will leak fuel into the intake manifold and flood the engine. This could explain the coughing and sputerring after a hard start. Once it burns out, all is well for a time.

I would invest in an injector cleaner that you add to your fuel tank. It may or may not help but it is the easiest and cheapest way to start.

It starts to get expensive after this if my idea is correct.
 
  #12  
Old 07-03-06, 04:32 AM
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Thank you. I will try the injector cleaner. How long is this likely to take? How quickly should I notice improvement. Is once in one tankfull enough to do the job if it is going to woirk?
 
  #13  
Old 07-03-06, 08:55 AM
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Probably wouldn't hurt to have the check engine light code pulled as well...always start with known problems and then after you've addressed those you can start guessing at unknown/unidentified problems. A check engine light is an indication of a known problem. Cars have wonderful on board diagnostic capabilities...seems a shame not to utilize this important source as a starting point for do-it-yourself car repair.
 
  #14  
Old 07-03-06, 12:39 PM
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Hey NAP,

You are a cottin' pickin' genius. I put fuel injector cleaner in it, filled the tank and drove it about 30 miles. The first 20 miles it continued to show "check ingine" off and on. But the last ten it ran good. Pulled into the drive and turned it off and on about 6 times. No problem at all. Before this I could never turn it off and back on in less that 5 to ten mionutes without trouble.

DaVeboy and davzack you were a great help too. You all got it narrowed down for me.

Thanks a million
Belmo829
 
  #15  
Old 07-03-06, 02:48 PM
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Don't run away yet. keep us abreast if your problems stay gone so that everyone here can realize how good that cleaner works in such situations. We have to rule out coincidences. And the only way you can do that is over time.
 
  #16  
Old 07-03-06, 05:29 PM
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Well we now have one more believer in the $3 magic pour in gas tank bottle, that everyone says is a waste of money and not part of preventive maintenance.

If that really did correct your problem you may want to look into getting a more powerful injection system cleaning. You have a more extreme case of build up on the valves and should get an injection system cleaning at a shop or lube shop. These they hook up to the fuel system and run a more potent cleaner through.
 
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