ABS noise?

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Old 07-02-06, 09:14 PM
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ABS noise?

98 Plymouth Breeze 2.0L 4Cyl 72K miles

When the car slows down to 10-20 mph, I hear a sound what resembles ABS activation. BUt it's not every time. I am clueless. Please help.
 
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Old 07-03-06, 09:04 AM
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Is your ABS light on? Do you feel the brake pedal pulsating like your ABS is actually engaging? Is there anything else going on (steering wheel shaking, engine lugging, etc.)? Is the check engine light on?
You say it doesn't do it all the time...can you be more specific about when it does do it (hard braking, easy braking, braking while turning, braking first thing in the morning when vehicle is cold, etc.)?

Actually, I just reread your post...you say it does it when you slow down to 10-20 mph...but are you even braking or are you just coasting?
 
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Old 07-03-06, 10:13 AM
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Thanks for the reply. After basic maintenance (coolant and oil), I was test driving it around the block.

1) It happened during decelleration (brake pedal pressed down). No hard braking, just slowing down from about 25 mph to less than 10 for cornering. It was an even braking.

2) The car is my child's. I drove it only once right after the maintenance. But my child said it happened before and is happending more frequently.

3) No brake pulsation. No shaking. No engine lugging. Just the sound that I am pretty sure coming from ABS activation.

I am going to blow ABS sensor/wheel area with compressed air this afternoon and see if it does the trick. Though no code light on, I will also check if there are stored codes.
Thanks.
 
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Old 07-03-06, 05:40 PM
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If your not feeling it in the peddle then its not the abs working. Are you feeling anything in the steering.
 
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Old 07-03-06, 07:21 PM
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Let me post a scenario for comment. What if one of the brakes are sticking? For example, what if a disk is rusted or a caliper is sticking, and putting on the brake is locking the wheel? Then the antilocks might kick in. I'd take it for a ride and hit the brakes, then feel each wheel to see if one of them is overheating. If so, you've got the culprit.

Otherwise, I'd pull the wheels and check that the brakes retract, and that there's not so much rust on the discs or drums that the wheels might be locking a bit.

What do others think of this possibility?
 
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Old 07-03-06, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by rpt
Let me post a scenario for comment. What if one of the brakes are sticking? For example, what if a disk is rusted or a caliper is sticking, and putting on the brake is locking the wheel? Then the antilocks might kick in. I'd take it for a ride and hit the brakes, then feel each wheel to see if one of them is overheating. If so, you've got the culprit.

Otherwise, I'd pull the wheels and check that the brakes retract, and that there's not so much rust on the discs or drums that the wheels might be locking a bit.

What do others think of this possibility?
every car I have driven with anti-lock, the pulsations can be felt in the pedal as the ABS activates. The OP claims to not have that sensation.
 
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Old 07-03-06, 07:37 PM
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I removed all wheels and blew dust away from the sensor/ring. Put the wheels back and test drove.

Cruising from 20 mph (in the neighborhood),

as I press the brake pedal, ABS activation starts at 10 and continues until about 3 mph. I could feel it on the pedal. (I was wrong when I said I could not feel it). I didn't feel any on the steering wheel. No shaking of the car. No engine lugging.

Regarding wheel binding, both rear wheels were spinning freely with the emergency brake released (car on a jack). Front wheels wouldn't spin (obviously).

Is this something any garage can repair? Or should I take it to a dealer? I heard that the sensors need to be scanned. Is the scanner a standard repair shop item? Or is it car specific that only Chrysler dealer has the right one for my car?

Thanks.
 
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Old 07-03-06, 09:08 PM
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most shops would probably have a scanner that would scan the abs data on your vehicle if in doubt ask them they should be ablt to tell you if their scanner is capable of reading the data on your year model.
probably is a sensor that is causing the abs to engage when it shouldt be.
 
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Old 07-04-06, 01:14 PM
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Before you make that leap...only because ABS repairs tend to be VERY expensive...try disabling the ABS system and then driving the car. If the noise/feeling goes away then you've isolated the problem to the ABS system. This is perfectly safe BTW.

If you still get the noise/feeling then it's not in the ABS. Besides, in almost every case failing/defective ABS systems will trigger the ABS light.
 
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Old 07-04-06, 09:48 PM
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Are all your tires the same size, are they all at the same pressure. These 2 things can also cause false ABS activation.
 
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Old 07-04-06, 10:29 PM
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Yes, same size tires and same pressure (32 psi).
 
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Old 07-04-06, 10:33 PM
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Pull the fuse on the abs so we can make sure that your actually feeling the abs and not something else.
 
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Old 07-05-06, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by puter
as I press the brake pedal, ABS activation starts at 10 and continues until about 3 mph. I could feel it on the pedal. (I was wrong when I said I could not feel it). I didn't feel any on the steering wheel. No shaking of the car. No engine lugging.

Is this something any garage can repair? Or should I take it to a dealer? I heard that the sensors need to be scanned. Is the scanner a standard repair shop item? Or is it car specific that only Chrysler dealer has the right one for my car?

Thanks.
Puter, when you feel the activation does the ABS light on the instrument panel come on? My 1996 Buick Regal has a "LOW TRAC" (Low Traction) light that comes on whenever the ABS system is activated when I'm driving.

If you are actually hearing the ABS system activate without feeling the pulsations, then I'm wondering if something is causing a pressure loss in the ABS pump and you're hearing the system try to repressurize? On my Buick I'll occasionally hear the ABS system repressurize if the car has been parked for awhile. This generally happens when it's first started though.

You can have any one scan the codes for the ABS that has access to a Tech 1 machine, though the dealer would be better equipped to handle any manufacturer specific codes that might be in the system. You could pull the ABS fuse and disable the system for diagnostic purposes. The car would still be safe to drive even if the ABS light comes on. If you are still getting the noise with the ABS disabled, it's probably a mechanical issue (warped rotors would be a first guess).


Christopher
 
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Old 07-05-06, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by ChristopherT
Puter, when you feel the activation does the ABS light on the instrument panel come on? My 1996 Buick Regal has a "LOW TRAC" (Low Traction) light that comes on whenever the ABS system is activated when I'm driving.

If you are actually hearing the ABS system activate without feeling the pulsations, then I'm wondering if something is causing a pressure loss in the ABS pump and you're hearing the system try to repressurize? On my Buick I'll occasionally hear the ABS system repressurize if the car has been parked for awhile. This generally happens when it's first started though.

You can have any one scan the codes for the ABS that has access to a Tech 1 machine, though the dealer would be better equipped to handle any manufacturer specific codes that might be in the system. You could pull the ABS fuse and disable the system for diagnostic purposes. The car would still be safe to drive even if the ABS light comes on. If you are still getting the noise with the ABS disabled, it's probably a mechanical issue (warped rotors would be a first guess).


Christopher
Ya like christopher said pull the fuse and see if it still does it to see if you can save a few hundred in diagnosis
 
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