95 Ford Taurus GL over-heating

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  #1  
Old 08-06-06, 06:19 AM
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95 Ford Taurus GL over-heating

Is there away I can keep my car from overheating?
 
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Old 08-06-06, 06:58 AM
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That's a pretty general question, but yes. Can you describe how the overheating is occuring and any other symptoms? Engine size would also be helpful - 3.0L or 3.8. The 3.8's are known headgasket blowers.
 
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Old 08-06-06, 12:01 PM
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Its a 3.0L and it start making a ticking sound and it get louder as the needle move closer to H and once it hit the H it cuts off
 
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Old 08-06-06, 01:31 PM
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Shut it off before it gets that hot. The damage is probably done. what have you checked. How long does it take to overheat.
 
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Old 08-06-06, 01:53 PM
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It takes about 30 mins to over heat and Ive checked the thermostat and the coolant and theres a crack in the tube where you pour the water/coolant in and when I checked it theres just water in it no coolant
 
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Old 08-06-06, 02:10 PM
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Continuing to run your vehicle until it gets hot enough to cut off is bad...really bad. I wouldn't be surprised at this point if you have already ruined your engine. I would suggest you take this vehicle immediately to a reputable repair facility and have them take a look at it.
 
  #7  
Old 08-08-06, 09:23 AM
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relay

Does your cooling fan come on? Does it come on with ac on? if not...

I think you have a 2-speed fan. It will be loud at high speed. The relay that controls it is mounted in the center above the radiator under a plastic shield with about 30 wires plugged into it. Check for loose/dirty connections. When the car is running and hot beat the crap out of it. If the fan comes on, go to a dealer and buy a new one. You will spend about $200. If it is hot and does not come on ever unless the ac is on it might be the temp sender screwed into the alum. intake manifold. Don’t worry about the single wire sender in the heater bye pass is for the really cool and sporty gauge in the dash.

If the fan comes on and runs and runs, look for crap on your radiator. Is it caked with mud and bugs? Is the air blowing out the back super hot (cannot hold hand there for more than a few seconds)? If not, blocked radiator or hose, missing or non- turning impeller on pump or bad t-stat.

You checked t-stat? When car over-heats top radiator hose is hot and bottom is cold?

Your heater is blowing hot air too?

You have the belt on the water pump?

You have a fan shroud?

Radiator cap is good? Hoses become very hard (cannot squeeze) as car warms up and gradually relax as car cools? After a cold-hot-cold cycle, the coolant is still at the top of filler neck?

You have not stuck a rag into a hose and forgotten about it on reassembly?

How does your oil look? How does the car run before it overheats? When you start it cold, do the hoses immediately get hard (pressure in cooling system) ? If you have the single-cam, push-rod, timing chain , 12-valve, cast-iron block and heads engine you are lucky. The car, transmission and everything that bolts to the engine is 100% crap, but the engine is very durable (and junk-yards are awash with them in case you ultimately need one). The tranny not the engine sends these cars to the junkyard.

The noise you hear is likely lifters, as the oil gets too hot and thin. I cannot explain why it shuts off unless the computer adjusts the timing so far out that it won’t run. Maybe the temp sensor is shot and the computer floods the engine with gas for what it thinks is a cold engine, but the o2 sensor should over-ride…

Autozone has loaner pressure testers, get one if you want, but I bet it is the t-stat or relay. Before you buy a relay hook up 12 v to the fan motor to test it. If it turns look for the high current fuse block under the hood and make sure they are all good. If it doesn't turn by hand smoothly replace the motor and check the fuse, since the bearings are bad and it draws too much current.

Good luck.
 

Last edited by peabees; 08-08-06 at 10:36 AM.
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