Transmission flush


Old 08-24-06, 05:50 PM
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Transmission flush

How do the Pros do a complete transmission fluid flush? Is it possible for the do-it-yourselfer to do this? Or are we stuck with just drain and refill only? Our vechiles are a RAV4 and Corolla with automatics. Thanks
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Old 08-24-06, 07:13 PM
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Talking trans flush

well dave we do use machines to do trans flushes , but there is a way to do it at home , what you first need to do is , wait wait wait , your pretty lucky , because on toyotas they have drain plugs , i was going to tell you to disconnect trans lines from radiator , but lets forget about that , ok on the bottom of your toys, there are drain plugs on the pans , 10mm hex socket , so drain the fluid , but the plug back in fill w/ 3-5 qts of fluid , i usually use five , then start the car run it thru all gears for about five min , dont drive the car just run it thru all gears , then drain the fluid again , and repeat as nessesary until all you see coming out is bright red trans fluid , after your final drain , then measure correctly to fill the trans , on toys its usually 2-1/2 - 3 quarts . you lucky dog
Old 08-25-06, 05:46 AM
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Well, this Toy OWNER merely changes the fluid every 25,000 miles. Never had a transmission problem and I probably have 300,000+ miles of Toy ownership in models ranging from a '76 Celica GT to our current Camry. But if you're really that concerned, I would take davelew's advice and run a couple of fluid changes through; you'll probably gain about 25,000 miles in tranny life (so they'll go 225,000 miles instead of only 200,000).
Old 08-25-06, 11:24 AM
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For those interested, here's the fluid change method I use on all my cars that don't have a torque converter drain:

1. Pull the transmission dipstick (located near the firewall in most cars). Fresh fluid is translucent and cherry red. Some darkening is normal, but if it is reddish brown or mustard color and smells like burnt varnish, it is worn out.

2. Make sure the fluid is warm.

3. For pans that don't have drain plugs, remove all pan bolts except for the corners. Remove the bolt from the lowest corner, then loosen the other corner bolts a turn or two. Carefully pry the pan to break the gasket seal at the lowest corner. Drain mostly from this corner. With good technique you can avoid or at least minimize the red bath.

4. Remove pan. Inspect the pan before cleaning. A small amount of fine grey clutch dust is normal. However, if you find metal shavings, there has been transmission damage. Remove all old gasket material. Clean the pan and magnet with solvent and wipe dry so there is no harmful residue. Shop air can be used to clean the magnet. Hammer back any pan damage from previous overtightening.

5. (Optional) Drill hole in pan at low point and install a drain kit available from most auto supply houses. Make sure the kit protruding inside the pan doesn't interfere with anything on the transmission.

6. Replace filter. If it’s a metal screen filter, it can probably be cleaned and reused.

7. Position gasket on pan. Some gaskets have four holes slightly smaller than the rest to allow four bolts through the pan and through these smaller holes to hold the four bolts and gasket in place.

8. Hand tighten pan bolts in a criss-cross pattern. After that, use a torque wrench to tighten bolts to proper ft-lbs as per manufacturer.

9. Refill the transmission using only the amount shown as “refill capacity” in the owners manual (or an equal amount that was drained), using the type of fluid specified for the vehicle.

10. You now have replaced the trans fluid and filter according to manufacturer’s requirements. Fluid is changed in the pan only.

You can stop here and go to Step 17 if you just wanted a regular drop-the-pan fluid change. For a complete exchange of the fluid (including transmission body and torquer converter) continue with the next steps.

11. Obtain the total system capacity of the vehicle from the manufacturer. Have this amount - plus a bit more - of fluid readily available.

12. Disconnect the oil cooler line from the oil cooler. Tickle the ignition to find the flow direction. Direct the stream of fluid toward a receptacle. It is better to use a clear length of hose with a shoplight laying next to it so you can see when all the old fluid has left the system.

13. Start the engine, let it idle to pump out old trans fluid until you start seeing air bubbles.

14. Stop the engine. Refill transmission through fill tube with fresh fluid - same amount as pumped out (usually about 2-3 quarts).

15. When either the fluid color brightens or the total capacity has been replaced, shut the engine off and re-attach the oil cooler line. All trans fluid has now been changed.

16. Button everything back up. Clean up the mess.

17. Recheck the fluid level. With the car on level ground, set the parking brake and the transmission in “Park” or “Neutral.” Let the engine idle for a few minutes. Shift the transmission through all detents, pausing momentarily at each position, before returning the lever to “Park” or “Neutral.” Check the fluid level again and check for leaks. Refill fluid so it is slightly undercharged. This way it can be properly checked and topped off after a long drive.

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