Saturn SL1 clutch

I need to bleed the clutch on my 99 Saturn SL1 after replacing the slave unit. This seems to be quite difficult indeed. Anyone have some suggestions as to the best way to accomplish such a feat?

Thanks

 

Is the bleeder difficult to access?

Bob

 

Should be easy just open the bleeder screw push down clutch close and release several times.
Just like brakes.

 

Umm. Guess you haven't seen the Saturn oem clutch system. There is no bleeder. Check out most any of the after market parts sites (autozone et al). They very clearly advertise the difficulty in bleeding the oem system. And the system they sell is identical to that of the oem from what they tell me. It has no bleeder either and I'd prefer to find a way to not spend 130+ bucks for the pre-assembled pre-bled system.

 

No never messed with a Satrun I have no idea on how they bleed that system but someone on this fourm must know.I hope you find out because I would like to know also. I thought only Ford had the better ideas.Guess GM must have hired Ford designers.

 

Stratocaster:

This is sounds a little hillbilly, but it can work. Position your car so the fitting for the slave line is higher than the slave. Pump the clutch about fifteen times or so. Hold pressure on the clutch and crack the connection to the slave. The air in the slave will rise to the top and out the fitting. It may take two or three times.

We have done this on car brakes when we couldn't get the bleeder open. Because of the position of the clutch master relative to the slave you can get most of, if not all the air out of a hydraulic clutch by loosening the master cap and pumping the clutch pedal.

Make sure you keep the master full of fluid.

Hope this helps,

Bob

 

Interesting. Here's what autozone.com says:

"The master cylinder, pipes and slave cylinder are a complete assembly and must be replaced as a single unit."

Sounds like more Engineering 101 failures.

 

Yes - definitely a failure of engineering 101 IMO.

We've already tried several variations on the hillbilly theme and we'll be trying a few more. I think I'm going to just get enought brake fluid to just submerse the bloody thing (after we clean it off) and try to work all the air out that way. Part of the difficulty is that they use roll pins at every place the line connects to the various bodies (of which there are three - master, slave, and some other thingy in the middle - metering?) which makes it difficult to make quick changes.

Thanks all.

 

I have been looking on GOOGLE for the procedure but come to a same old story Master cyl and slave and lines are replaced as one unit.(what a crock). I find it hard to believe and why would they sell individual parts? I will keep looking I want to know myself now.

 

Ageeing with Michael, it is a crock. My blood pressure is still coming down after working on my finely tuned Maytag washer.

The problem with the Saturn is - the clutch parts (like my 2 year Maytag everything) may have about the same life span and are "engineered" to fail about the same time. With this logic you may as well replace them all about the same time. (Is the clutch pedal still separate?)

Later,

Bob

 

I bought my grandson a 1993 Saturn S; standard transmission. The clutch is not working. I pushed it to the floor, no resistance. I cannot move the manual shifter. I was told that it either could be that the clutch belt is broken,or the hydralic system is blown. I need to take it to the shop, but I don't want to get buffaloed and seems to happen to me so much.

Any help would be appreciated.
Nanny

 

Never heard of a clutch belt. Will it go into gears with engine off? How is the fluid level? If it is low it is low for two reasons one is a leak and the other is the clutch is worn and no one added fluid to compesate for wear.
You have two big items one is the master cylinder (were the fluid is filled) and a slave cylinder down on the bottom of the car attached to the gearbox. and lines that connect the two.