2000 Altima, 43K, Won't turn over when damp outside

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  #1  
Old 10-20-06, 06:06 AM
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2000 Altima, 43K, Won't turn over when damp outside

2000 Altima with 43,000.

The weather has gotten cooler and has been very humid lately.

The car will crank but won't turn over. If I keep after it, continuously trying off and on over a period of a couple hours, it'll eventually start. If the sun comes out and dries things up, it'll start just fine. So there's got to be corrosion in a wire or something somewhere.

I'm thinking it's some with the distributor cap or inginition. I'm going to change the plugs and wires this weekend as regualr maintenance. But what else should I change out? Distributor Cap? Rotor as well? Something else?

Thanks,

Matt
 
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  #2  
Old 10-20-06, 06:30 AM
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When it isn't starting, pop off the distributor cap and check it for moisture. Look closely around the inside terminals. If you find some there wipe it out and you'll probably startup ok.

If you're changing the wires, I would also change the cap and rotor. After you have everything in place I would spray the entire iginition system with an ignition spray to seal it off. That should end your problems.

A short term fix for moisture outside the distributor cap is WD 40. It will displace the moisture on the iginition wires,etc.

Hope this helps,

Bob
 
  #3  
Old 10-20-06, 06:34 AM
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Cool thanks.

I've done plugs, wires, oil, fuel filters, altenators, starters, etc.

But never a cap and rotor. Is it just remove and replace? Or do I have to do some sort of setting?

I have a repair manual but not with me here at work. I'm trying to plan ahead for this weekends, chore.
 
  #4  
Old 10-20-06, 06:58 AM
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Yes, it's just remove the old and replace with the new one, no set up/adjustment needed, just mark the location of the wires and do one wire at a time.
 
  #5  
Old 10-21-06, 06:26 AM
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I had trouble getting it started right before I went to change things out. Quickly removed the cap and it was dry in there. Minor corrision on the points inside the cap.

So now I'm concerned it's a fuel pump issue or something.

It's odd because once it gets running, no problems with stalling out or anything. So I'm going to see through changing the cap, rotor, plugs, and wires. Hopefully that will take care of it. If not, next time it starts, I'll drive it straight to the shop.

I'll try and post an update.
 
  #6  
Old 10-21-06, 06:55 AM
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Check for a good spark. And the right timing of the spark. They have been known for loosing the cranks sensor signal without setting any CEL or other symptoms beside a no start. Unfortunately you can only get the crank by replacing the while distributor
 
  #7  
Old 10-23-06, 07:08 PM
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Well I changed the cap and rotor. I tried to change the fuel filter but couldn't get the hoses loose before I ran out of time to work on it.

But that seemed to do the trick because it has started fine since then. I'll report any further trouble in this thread.

I still will change the plugs, wires, fuel filter, and other minor things because it's due to have it done.
 
  #8  
Old 10-24-06, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by MattGSO
Well I changed the cap and rotor. I tried to change the fuel filter but couldn't get the hoses loose before I ran out of time to work on it.

But that seemed to do the trick because it has started fine since then. I'll report any further trouble in this thread.

I still will change the plugs, wires, fuel filter, and other minor things because it's due to have it done.
Hi Matt-

I would suggest on top of the tune up you clean out the throttle body, you might have to cut the fuel line in order to remove the filter, that seems to work. It sounds like you found your problem. The 2000 Altima is prone to two known issues, intake manifold gasket leak and oil in the electrical distributor. You can post your Altima questions on www.***********.com I reside over there with the screen name LONDONDERRY. If you have any question please feel free to ask me here or there.

Frank
 

Last edited by mattison; 10-25-06 at 04:11 AM. Reason: Redirecting people to other forums is not allowed.
  #9  
Old 10-24-06, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by LONDONDERRY
Hi Matt-

.... you might have to cut the fuel line in order to remove the filter, that seems to work.

Frank
Why cut the fuel line in order to remove the filter????. Look like you'll the right tool for doing the right job.
 
  #10  
Old 10-24-06, 03:47 PM
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Thanks. Didn't realize there was a Nissan forum.

The fuel filter has "soft" lines going in and out of it. The hose has pretty much fused to the filter and doesn't want to let go.

I'm going to try and just cut the top line because it's easy to replace it because it's right on top. The other one leading into the filter starts way down and would be a bi*** to get to the far end of it.

I'm hoping if I cut the output line, the input line will free up with a little twisting. If not, then I'll cut that one too.
 
  #11  
Old 10-25-06, 03:48 AM
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Originally Posted by New guy
Why cut the fuel line in order to remove the filter????. Look like you'll the right tool for doing the right job.


The stainless steel fuel line is spliced and clamped onto a flexable rubber hose the goes to the intake port of the fuel filter, which has the same hose going to the output port on the fuel filter. Many times the these lines become difficult if not impossible to remove from the filter because of the tight seal at the nipple ends. Most of the time cutting the lines on both ends is the only resort to remove the filter. That why its a good idea to have 2 feet of spare line on hand when doing.this job.


Usually I cut the line on the input port of the filter from the stainless steel line back and just replace it. Its much less of a pain in the ass to do, but you have to jack the car up to get access to it
Frank
 

Last edited by LONDONDERRY; 10-25-06 at 04:00 AM.
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